Singapore bak kut teh scene simmers with bold new flavours

Straits Times

14-06-2025

From herbal broths to karaoke rooms, bak kut teh is back in trend with fresh spins. ST PHOTOS: KEVIN LIM. DESMOND WEE, TARYN NG
SINGAPORE – Bak kut teh is back and bolder than ever.
At Old Street Bak Kut Teh's newest outlet in Telok Ayer, diners can dig into peppery pork rib soup and bar bites like grilled Iberico pork jowl, washed down with Stella Artois, while singing karaoke in a private room.
It is a far cry from the spartan kopitiams and hawker stalls where pork rib soup is typically slurped with sips of kungfu tea.
A wave of new openings in 2024 and 2025 is reshaping the heritage dish. From Old Street's karaoke-and-bar-bites concept to En Yeoh's Japanese-accented take – complete with Chinese baijiu tipples – bak kut teh is shedding its 'uncle cuisine' image.
These joints bring air-conditioned comfort, broader menus and seafood options – all crafted for wider appeal.
Rise of Malaysian-style bak kut teh
Making the biggest waves is Malaysian-style bak kut teh, driven by nostalgia and recalibrated for local palates. Sellers of herbal broths have toned down the bitterness, scaled back the salt and swopped intensely fatty cuts for leaner ones.
'It's more balanced now,' says Mr Low Heng Kin, 38, who co-owns and runs Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh at BreadTalk IHQ in Tai Seng. The stall specialises in Ipoh-style bak kut teh with a lighter-textured broth compared with the Klang version . Mr Low is originally from Ipoh.
'We tested more than 20 herb combinations. Singaporeans don't want it too sweet or too bitter.'
His broth, simmered for eight hours, includes 16 ingredients – 12 of them traditional Chinese herbs.
At L5 Bak Kut Teh in MacPherson, which opened in July 2024, father-and-daughter duo Wayne and Michelle Gong specialise in Klang-style bak kut teh. He is originally from Klang, while she is Singaporean.
Father-and-daughter team Wayne and Michelle Gong co-own L5 Bak Kut Teh.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
When they first launched their authentic Klang-style broth, complete with potent herbal aroma, fatty hind trotter cuts and a collagen-thickened texture, Malaysian customers lapped it up. But Singaporean diners – more accustomed to Teochew-style clear broths – were less receptive to the rich, slightly gelatinous mouthfeel.
Two months in, Mr Gong, 55, refined the broth, now a balance of herbal depth and a soupier texture.
Ms Gong, 27, says: 'We want to cater to local tastes and the Singapore market. It was challenging to honour the authenticity of the original recipe while ensuring it resonates with local palates.'
Tweaked traditions
These flavour tweaks reflect a broader shift in how bak kut teh is being adapted for modern tastes. Even the local versions are evolving.
Ms Rebecca Koh, 49, co-owner of The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik, says: 'My bak kut teh leans towards a fusion style, using Chinese herbs and a thicker broth borrowed from Klang-style bak kut teh. I chose this style because I want to be different from other Teochew bak kut teh establishments and generate our own following.'
Her broth is based on her grandmother's traditional recipe, built originally on pork bones, garlic and peppercorns. Her mother later added Solomon's seal, licorice and star anise.
(Clockwise from top left) Claypot Pig's Liver, Bah Kut Teh Soup, Sliced Red Grouper Soup, Steamed Squid, and Handmade Prawn Rolls at The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
When Ms Koh, who is Singaporean, opened her Keong Saik outlet in November 2024, she chose a lighter, healthier broth. But she soon learnt that customers were after a fuller-bodied version.
'Customers didn't take well to it. They wanted more concentrated flavours and a thicker texture,' she says. She now thickens the broth with more pork bones and meat, simmering it for six hours over high heat for collagen extraction, and dialling back the pepper.
Seafood in the mix
Another emerging trend is the introduction of seafood options, especially lala – in a nod to the popular lala pot trend that originated in Malaysia.
L5 offers Lala Bak Kut Teh ($10.90++), featuring clams cooked in its herbal pork broth. The dish does not contain pork slices or ribs .
L5 Bak Kut Teh's Lala Bak Kut Teh, featuring clams cooked in its herbal pork broth.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
Mr Gong says he first noticed the dish appearing in Klang several years ago. Balancing the clams' strong flavour with the broth took testing, and his solution was green chilli.
En Yeoh's Bak Kut Teh offers Claypot Dry Assorted Seafood ($19.90++) to cater to customers who may not enjoy pork. The dish includes tiger prawns, asari clams, gindara (black cod), okra, sliced cuttlefish, dried chilli and green chilli, tossed in a savoury sauce.
En Yeoh's Bak Kut Teh's Claypot Dry Assorted Seafood.
PHOTO: EN YEOH'S BAK KUT TEH
Mr Raymond Ng, 58, managing director of Japanese restaurant chain En Group, notes that the seafood trend took off in Klang a few years ago. He reckons it may have started when customers took along their own seafood for bak kut teh eateries to prepare. Eateries near the sea and port areas also began offering seafood options.
The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik is tapping the trend with its new Sliced Red Grouper Soup ($14.50), listed under the Bak Kut Teh section of its menu. Slices of firm red grouper come in a light peppery bak kut teh broth served in a bowl – not claypot – to prevent the fish from being overcooked in residual heat.
The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik's Sliced Red Grouper Soup, which features fish slices in bak kut teh broth.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
Old Street Bak Kut Teh was ahead of the curve. It introduced Seafood Bak Kut Teh ($13.30+ for small, $24.10+ for large) eight years ago. The dish is a medley of tiger prawns, clams and pork ribs in its signature bak kut teh broth.
Broth revival
Why is traditional bak kut teh, once seen as a dish for older diners, making a comeback? Sellers say it boils down to comfort. Bak kut teh offers a rich broth, familiar flavours and a sense of nourishment – qualities that outlast short-lived food trends.
Ms Gong of L5 Bak Kut Teh says: 'Bak kut teh is deeply tied to memory, family and culture. Its warmth and familiarity make it a dish that feels especially comforting in uncertain times.'
Mr Lim Kuan Yiou, 30, business development director of Old Street Bak Kut Teh, says: 'There are many food options on the market, especially with new eateries selling fusion food such as modern European or modern Asian fare. But diners who miss home cooking and crave local food will gravitate towards things like bak kut teh and zi char dishes.'
Mr Lim Kuan Yiou, business development director of Old Street Bak Kut Teh, at its Telok Ayer outlet's private karaoke room on the third storey.
ST PHOTO: DESMOND WEE
He adds that while it may not be an everyday meal, some customers eat bak kut teh two to three times a week. It suits both quick solo meals and group gatherings.
'The dish conjures up nostalgia and family,' he says. 'Many people have the shared experience of eating bak kut teh on weekends with their families.'
Mr Low says that it is a practical, value-for-money dish that reheats well for takeaway – ideal for diners with hectic schedules who want a hearty meal without the fuss.
Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh co-owner Low Heng Kin notes that bak kut teh lends itself to reheating for takeaway orders.
ST PHOTO: KEVIN LIM
Growing appeal to younger diners
Ms Gong sees the rise in new bak kut teh concepts as a healthy sign of growing interest, particularly among younger diners. She welcomes the competition as motivation to stay distinctive and relevant, while contributing to the dish's evolving place in Singapore's food culture.
While Ms Koh did not set out to attract younger diners, she has noted more Gen Z and millennial customers at her Keong Saik outlet. 'They do not show up just once. They return regularly with more friends in tow.'
The outlet being air-conditioned lends to its appeal. Older diners, however, say the air-conditioning is too cold and causes food to lose heat more quickly. To counter this, Ms Koh did away with traditional ceramic bowls with rooster motifs and replaced them with claypots, which can retain heat longer.
Old Street Bak Kut Teh's four outlets in Singapore emphasise ambience, technology – such as a QR code ordering system – and efficient service to appeal to younger diners, especially working adults who have limited time for lunch breaks.
With competition heating up, Ms Koh feels that bak kut teh cannot continue in its original form and thrive. 'Customers want more variety, so people who don't eat it still have choices.'
She learnt this in the first two months of operation when she named the outlet Keong Saik Bak Kut Teh, after its heritage location, even though it served more than bak kut teh.
'Some people feel bak kut teh is more of a breakfast or lunch food and do not fancy having it for dinner,' she says.
That insight spurred a key branding move. She changed her eatery's name to The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik in March. This led to increased footfall, especially from families looking for home-style dishes , not just bak kut teh .
The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik, co-owned by Ms Rebecca Koh, offers zi char favourites in addition to bak kut teh.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
Other operators share similar views, expanding their offerings to include zi char classics, fusion items and even cocktails and entertainment.
Whether it is a nostalgic tribute to family recipes or a bold pairing of pork rib soup with karaoke and cocktails, bak kut teh is stirring up fresh interest across Singapore.
As more eateries reinvent the dish with broader menus and modern touches, bak kut teh is no longer just a classic – it is becoming part of Singapore's evolving dining identity.
Here is how five establishments are brewing the next chapter in Singapore's bak kut teh story.
Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh: Honouring a father's legacy with Ipoh roots
Bak Kut Teh Dry, Bak Kut Teh Soup and Vinegar Pork Trotter from Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh at Food Republic in BreakTalk IHQ.
ST PHOTO: KEVIN LIM
When Mr Low opened the first Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh outlet at a coffee shop in Geylang East in June 2024, he did so with a recipe he never cooked with his father, but which his mother had preserved in writing.
His father, who ran a bak kut teh stall in Ipoh from 1996 to 2017, died of cancer in 2019.
'I never had the chance to learn from him directly,' Mr Low says. 'But I grew up helping out at the stall. This is my way of continuing his legacy.'
He closed the Geylang East stall due to low footfall and reopened at BreadTalk IHQ in Tai Seng in February 2025 .
Mr Low Heng Kin operates Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh at Food Republic in BreakTalk IHQ.
ST PHOTO: KEVIN LIM
Unlike the darker, stronger Klang version, Ipoh-style herbal broth is lighter and less medicinal. At Pin Xiang, the broth simmers for eight hours with premium herbs such as dang gui and Solomon's seal, along with fresh pork ribs and soft bone cuts.
Co-owner Low Heng Kin preparing bak kut teh soup at Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh at Food Republic in BreakTalk IHQ.
ST PHOTO: KEVIN LIM
The bestseller, Bak Kut Teh (Soup), which costs $8.50 for a small portion and $16 for medium, includes enoki mushrooms, tau kee, Chinese celery and tau pok. Chinese celery accents the dish with peppery pungence.
Bak Kut Teh Soup from Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh.
ST PHOTO: KEVIN LIM
Another standout is the Bak Kut Teh Dry (Spicy), which costs $9.50 for a small portion and $18 for medium. The dish is wok-fried with dried chillies, shredded cuttlefish and okra, and accented with red onion and garlic. Golden croutons of pork lard crown the dish. The dark sauce is savoury without being too salty.
Bak Kut Teh Dry from Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh.
ST PHOTO: KEVIN LIM
Vinegar Pork Trotter ($9.50), braised for two hours in sweet vinegar and brown sugar, comes with ginger slices and quail eggs.
Vinegar pork trotter from Pin Xiang Bak Kut Teh.
ST PHOTO: KEVIN LIM
Where: Stall 5, 01-06 Food Republic, BreadTalk IHQ, 30 Tai Seng Street
Open: 10am to 8.30pm daily
Tel: [phone]
L5 Bak Kut Teh: Recreating the flavours of Klang
Da Gu (big bone, top left), Xiao Gu (small bone, top right), Lala Bak Kut Teh (centre) and Penang Signature Ngoh Hiang (bottom left), with Scallion Rice and plain rice at L5 Bak Kut Teh.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
Mr Gong learnt to cook the dish from his father, who sold bak kut teh out of his kampung house's front yard in Klang.
After moving to Singapore at age 18, he continued cooking the dish as a way of holding on to the taste of home. For more than three decades, he prepared it twice a month for friends and family. They enjoyed it so much that they encouraged him to open an eatery.
L5 stands for Lao Wu. The numeral 5 is a play on 'Wu', which is his surname, and 'Lao' means 'old' in Chinese, representing heritage and tradition. Naming the eatery 'L5' is intended to resonate with younger diners used to shorthand and acronyms.
At the 50-seat eatery, the Klang-style broth is made fresh daily with long-simmered pork bones, dark soya sauce and 18 herbs refined through months of testing.
True to the style in Klang, the eatery serves Xiao Gu ($8.90++), which refers to a leaner cut of the pig's hind leg.
Xiao Gu (small bone) Bak Kut Teh.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
Da Gu ($8.90++) is a fatter cut of the hind leg. The herbal broth is aromatic without being too bitter or astringent.
Da Gu (big bone) Bak Kut Teh at L5 Bak Kut Teh.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
Try the Scallion Rice ($1.50++) to complete the Malaysian bak kut teh experience.
A skilful home cook, Mr Gong is behind the recipes at the eatery, including Penang Signature Ngoh Hiang ($6.90++), which uses a Penang brand of five spice. Pork belly strips and yam cubes give the filling, wrapped in beancurd skin, added texture.
Penang Signature Ngoh Hiang at L5 Bak Kut Teh.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
Where: 01-30 Grantal Mall @ MacPherson, 601 MacPherson Road
Open: 11am to 10pm, Tuesdays to Sundays; closed on Mondays
Tel: [phone]
En Yeoh's Bak Kut Teh: Teahouse by day, izakaya by night
A collaboration between a Klang hallmark brand, Yeoh's Bak Kut Teh, and Japanese restaurant group, En Group, En Yeoh's Bak Kut Teh is the group's first concept that is not fully Japanese. Its fourth and newest outlet at Changi City Point opened in May 2025 .
En Yeoh's Bak Kut Teh's newest outlet at Changi City Point.
PHOTO: EN YEOH'S BAK KUT TEH
'We have 25 years of Japanese F&B experience and decided to fuse Japanese influences into the bak kut teh menu,' says Mr Ng.
Hokkaido pork is used for the bak kut teh, and soumen instead of mee sua is used in the menu. Even the rice is Masshigura rice grown in Aomori prefecture.
Signature 4 Types Assorted Meats Claypot Bak Kut Teh ($10.90++ for one person, $18.90++ for two people) comprises pork trotter, pork ribs, pork belly, pork collar, shiitake mushrooms, button mushrooms, tofu puffs and fried beancurd in an earthy ambrosial broth.
The Signature 4 Types Assorted Meats Claypot Bak Kut Teh comes with pork trotter, pork ribs, pork belly, pork collar, shiitake mushrooms, button mushrooms, tofu puffs and fried beancurd in a herbal bak kut broth.
PHOTO: EN YEOH'S BAK KUT TEH
En Yeoh's Signature Edamame ($6.50++) is Japanese edamame and sliced cuttlefish stir-fried in bak kut teh sauce.
En Yeoh's Signature Edamame.
PHOTO: EN YEOH'S BAK KUT TEH
For drinks, there is Warm Your Heart And Stomach ($20++), a cocktail of herbal bak kut teh broth mixed with Moutai Chun and Nu Er Hong.
En Yeoh's Bak Kut Teh has a cocktail selection which includes Warm Your Heart And Stomach, a warm cocktail featuring herbal bak kut teh broth, Moutai Chun and Nu Er Hong.
PHOTO: EN YEOH'S BAK KUT TEH
Where: B1-30 Changi City Point, 5 Changi Business Park Central 1
Open: 11am to 10pm daily
Info: enyeohsbkt.com.sg
Old Street Bak Kut Teh (Telok Ayer): Tradition meets karaoke
The fourth and newest outlet of Old Street Bak Kut Teh opened in April 2025 in a conserved Telok Ayer shophouse to mark the chain's 15th anniversary.
Old Street Bak Kut Teh (Telok Ayer) occupies a shophouse.
ST PHOTO: DESMOND WEE
Founded in 2010 by husband-and-wife team Jason Lim, 59, and Priscilia Koh, 55, the brand has evolved with each outlet.
Mr Lim Kuan Yiou, who is the eldest son of the founders, says: 'Our first outlet was also a shophouse. This (newest) one has a mural of Chinatown's old street life – and a KTV room with a $500 minimum spend. My dad's a karaoke fan. That was his idea.'
Mr Lim Kuan Yiou, business development director of Old Street Bak Kut Teh, at the Telok Ayer outlet's private KTV room.
ST PHOTO: DESMOND WEE
The chain's clear, flavoursome broth has a lightly gelatinous texture and is not too peppery.
'We don't use a central kitchen,' says Mr Lim. 'The soup is boiled in small batches throughout the day, so it stays fresh. That's how the clarity and taste stay consistent.'
The Pork Ribs Soup ($10.50+ for small, $14+ for large) follows a Teochew-style recipe with white peppercorns from Sarawak and chilled pork bones flown in from Europe.
Bak Kut Teh set at Old Street Bak Kut Teh (Telok Ayer).
ST PHOTO: DESMOND WEE
Dry Bak Kut Teh ($12.20+ for small, $15.70+ for large) is tossed in a Malaysian-style sauce with okra and cuttlefish.
Dry Bak Kut Teh at Old Street Bak Kut Teh (Telok Ayer).
ST PHOTO: DESMOND WEE
Soya Beancurd ($3.10+) and crispy, pillowy You Tiao ($2.60+) are made from scratch at the outlet.
Soya Milk and Soya Beancurd are freshly prepared at Old Street Bak Kut Teh (Telok Ayer) every morning.
ST PHOTO: DESMOND WEE
From 6pm, bar bites such as Grilled Iberico Pork Jowl ($28+) and Grilled Pork Skewer ($6+) are available.
Where: 112 Telok Ayer
When: 7.30am to 11pm daily
Tel: [phone]
Info: oldstreetbakkutteh.com
The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik: Bak kut teh in a zi char restaurant
More than bak kut teh is offered in this Teochew eatery, which serves up favourites such as claypot pig liver and steamed squid.
The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik, which opened in November 2024 at 26 Keong Saik Road, is much bigger than its flagship at Block 7 Tanjong Pagar Plaza and also has a larger menu.
The original eatery, which opened in 2017, serves Teochew Fish Soup ($7.80) and Homemade Prawn Roll ($6.50 for five pieces).
Homemade Prawn Rolls at The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
While business is brisk there, it seats just 20 diners indoors and 20 outdoors, compared with the 60-seat Keong Saik outlet.
Run by husband-and-wife team Lee Hon Tat, 55, and Rebecca Koh, the Keong Saik outlet is fully air-conditioned – a draw for tourists and families.
Its Premium Pork Loin Rib Soup ($8 for one piece, $15 for two) uses fresh chilled prime pork ribs and Sarawak pepper. The broth is based on Ms Koh's maternal grandmother's recipe, adjusted over six months for modern palates.
Premium Pork Loin Rib Soup at The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
Signature dishes include Claypot Pig's Liver ($13 for regular, $19 for large), with pork liver prepared to remove odour and achieve a powdery texture.
Claypot Pig's Liver at The Teochew Kitchenette @ Keong Saik.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
The bouncy yet tender Steamed Squid ($16 for one, $29 for two) is popular.
Steamed Squid at The Teochew Kitchenette.
ST PHOTO: TARYN NG
Where: 26 Keong Saik Road
Open: 11am to 3.30pm and 5 to 9.30pm (Mondays to Saturdays), 11am to 3.30pm and 5 to 9pm (Sundays)
Tel: [phone]
Hedy Khoo is senior correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers food-related news, from reviews to human interest stories.
Check out ST's Food Guide for the latest foodie recommendations in Singapore.