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The perfect holiday in Northumberland, England's quietest county

The perfect holiday in Northumberland, England's quietest county

Telegraph11 hours ago
Northumberland 's trump card is that it's England 's least-populated county. All that space, and so few people. And it's not just any old space. Its coastline is an unfolding drama of runway-flat beaches, don't-mess-with-me castles and islands that scream with wildlife. Inland are the sheep-dotted moorlands, quiet valleys and soft rounded hills of the Northumberland National Park which also encloses the huge playground of Kielder Forest and Water. Striding across the south of the county is the mighty frontier of the Roman Empire: Hadrian's Wall.
There are market towns and fishing villages, but nothing so brash as cities, bright lights and shopping malls. True, there are grand houses and grand gardens, but often tucked away. Country inns, craft breweries and seafood specialists, plus a growing number of seriously high-end restaurants, tempt appetites. But it's the ease with which peace can be found, among its varied attractions, that gives Northumberland a quiet edge over other regions.
For more Northumberland inspiration, see our guides to the region's best hotels, restaurants, pubs, beaches and things to do.
In this guide:
How to spend the perfect day in Northumberland
How to spend the perfect week in Northumberland
When to go
Where to stay
How to get there and how to get around
Know before you go
How to spend the perfect day
Morning
Unless Roman history is your passion – in which case, make for Hadrian's Wall – head for the coast to get the best all-round experience. Start a few miles inland, at Alnwick, specifically at Barter Books, one of the country's largest second-hand bookshops (in the former railway station) and a good spot to get a jolly good breakfast, from bacon butties to smashed avocado. Don't linger too long over the bookshelves before walking the 10 minutes to Alnwick Garden. You don't need to be a plant person to enjoy this vast contemporary creation, from its bamboo labyrinth and water cascade to its 3,000-strong rose garden and deliciously deadly poison garden.
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