I stayed in one of Europe's grandest hotels — a time warp of Old World glamour

Metro

3 days ago

Sitting on the narrow bench of a funicular, backpack perched on my knees, my stomach churns with anxiety I hadn't felt since my first day of school.
Will I embarrass myself? Will I fit in?
Today, there are no GCSEs ahead of me, but a turreted fairytale castle of a hotel, overlooking Switzerland's largest city.
I've been invited to spend a night at the Dolder Grand, a lavish time warp of Old World glamour where Europe's well-heeled elites have lived the high life since 1899, deep in the forest on the Adlisberg mountain.
Affectionately known as the grand dame of Zurich, this place rolls out the red carpet for its A-list guests. I mean this literally: a red carpet leads to the hotel's front entrance. Elton John has laid his head here, as has King Charles III, back when he was still a bachelor prince.
Now, the Lionesses have checked in as they defend their title at the 2025 UEFA Women's Euros in the semi-final tonight.
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England has stepped up its game for Sarina Wiegman's squad this year in a major way.
The trappings of the Dolder are a far cry from the four-star Lensbury in Teddington, which was their base when England hosted the tournament in 2022.
Having travelled relatively extensively only by filtering for the cheapest accommodation (friends will remember the pod hostel in Tel Aviv and the hut with a hole in the ground in the Philippines), the idea of staying somewhere so ultra-luxurious is strange, even a little uncomfortable.
But after just a few hours floating above Zurich, soaking up Swiss Alpine views from the spa's infinity jacuzzi, I realise I could get used to the lifestyle of the rich and famous much faster than I thought.
Good thing I'll never be able to afford it.
The Dolder Grand is not somewhere you walk to. On a hill that boasts the best view in Zurich, guests arrive to this imposing palace by car (typically the Maserati or Rolls Royce variety), hotel shuttle or funicular.
Even if you're slumming it like I was, using my trusty Zurich travel card on Switzerland's well-oiled public transport network instead of a £100,000 supercar, the journey from the centre of the city takes less than 20 minutes.
Somehow, the hotel still manages to feel remote, like you're entering another stratosphere. In many ways, you are.
I had steeled myself for airs, graces and a gaggle of influencers, but in the grandiose lobby, complete with a crystal chandelier and double wraparound staircase, I found a young American family, middle-aged couples and business travellers checking in with friendly staff, most of them locals from Zurich and the surrounding canton.
The atmosphere is relaxed and, while I clock at least two Hermès bags that cost more than what I have saved for a house deposit, it's clear that here, every guest is treated like a VIP.
On the go since 1899, the Dolder has seen some things. You can feel it, as you move between the original castle building (extensively renovated in 2008) and the modern, sleek wings that carry it into the 21st century.
I close my eyes as I climb one flight to my room, imagining the people who went before me wearing drop-waist dresses in the 1920s, fur coats and miniskirts in the '60s.
Anyone who comes to the Dolder Grand without visiting the spa has not really been to the Dolder Grand.
Sprawled over 4,000sqm, this cavernous space is more of a wellness centre, with everything you can imagine to help you live a longer and healthier life. It's also the perfect place to rest and reset after a tough time on the pitch.
The Lionesses will have use of the saunas and steam baths, plunge pools and whirlpools, hot tubs and aroma baths, plus a menu of beauty treatments I never knew existed.
I could have spent half a day lounging on the sun terrace, taking in the view. The only thing that raised an eyebrow was the solarium I spotted in an alcove in the relaxation area. Hasn't science ruled that sunbeds are bad for us?
The hotel also offers yoga, Pilates (including reformer) and even ballet lessons in the belly of the wellness centre.
It may be of little interest to the England team, but in certain circles, the Dolder is best known for its multimillion-dollar art collection.
Scattered throughout the corridors is a unique kind of gallery, containing 100-plus pieces by 90 artists from different eras.
All are disruptive creations that challenge our perception of culture and the status quo, and most are displayed in public spaces. (There is a Dali on-site, but that's locked away in the private dining room. I did ask.)
I came away thinking about the work of Jani Leinonen, a 47-year-old Finnish visual artist who subverts logos and corporate branding to criticise capitalism.
Everything you'd expect from a five-star establishment where Di Caprio and the Rolling Stones have stayed.
Divided between the historic castle and the modern wings, all of the suites (and most of the standard rooms) come with sunken whirlpool bathtubs, rainfall showers and floor-to-ceiling windows that flood the bedroom with morning sunlight.
If you're lucky enough to get a room at the front of the hotel, the main event is the south-facing balcony, which captures views of Lake Zurich and the sugar-dusted Alps in the distance.
My favourite touch of how the other half live was the TV subtly embedded in the bathroom mirror.
Much has been made of the Dolder's location and art collection, but it's culinary offerings deserve more attention than they get.
The hotel's four restaurants have two Michelin stars and 65 Gault & Millau points between them, and the breakfast – best enjoyed on the terrace – is the most preposterously lavish spread I've ever seen.
Frequent pop-ups keep things fresh; during my stay, guests were treated to a Lebanese mezze feast of fattoush, falalfel and Riz 'a Djej.
The Lionesses will be travelling with two chefs and a nutritionist, who will work with the hotel's catering team to create meals of champions. I hope they can indulge in the Dolder's usual fare after the final.
Prices vary depending on rooms and season. In summer, standard rooms start at £750 (CHF 819) per night, including breakfast. More Trending
Luxury suites will set you back a whole lot more. The Golf Suite, for example, runs from £3,753 (CHF 4,100).
For that, you'll get a sprawling living room and bedroom, and a terrace with a 270-degree panoramic view that surrounds the entire thing. Oh, and a private butler.
Time: Switzerland is one hour ahead of the UK.
Weather: The average daily maximum temperature in July is around 25°C.
Adaptors: UK to EU travel adapter.
Currency: The local currency is the Swiss Franc (CHF).
Visas: You do not need a visa to visit any part of Switzerland, and can stay for periods of up to 90 days.
Check in/check out: You can check in from 3pm, and you'll need to check out before 12pm, but you can enjoy the spa until you need to leave.
Disability access? Yes. The hotel has a wheelchair-accessible spa, restaurants and check-in desk.
Standout feature: The location, the spa and the breakfast.
Perfect for: Couples and business travellers.
Not right for: Anyone on a budget.
This article was originally published on 2 July 2025 and has been updated.
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