Alessandro Michele brings dark drama and Elton John to Valentino

Yahoo

30-01-2025

Valentino, the last show of Paris Couture, came with a health warning that the staging and lighting 'might cause issues' for claustrophobics and anyone with photosensitivity. It should have had a few more: the stairs to the higher seats were so steep, influencers in stunt heels and trailing hemlines had to have flunkies follow behind them with their arms spread wide to catch them if they fell.
In the darkness, the mournful soundtrack of police sirens and, possibly, booming bitterns was punctuated by screams as guests in stilettos impaled other guests' feet in the trample to get to their 10sq in allotted space. Persistent rain outside gave added atmosphere – and slipperiness. A wind machine aimed at the models as the end-of-show finale was strong enough to knock them flat. The moody rock star, Nick Cave, who was front row, probably felt right at home. Sir Elton John, along the way in his pink shoes, less so.
The actual clothes should also have come with a health warning. They were enough to bring a minimalist out in hives.
This was Alessandro Michele's first couture show for Valentino. In fact, his first couture show as creative director anywhere. The temptation of being let loose amongst the most expert embroiderers, cutters and tailors in Paris was clearly irresistible. Most of his creations would have been too much for Scarlett O'Hara. A bit OTT for Marie-Antoinette. Enough to make Widow Twankey gulp. Enormous crinolines, panniers, conical hoop skirts in harlequin checks or textured gold were clearly not designed for the Oscars as you couldn't sit down in them. Nor for the Met Ball, since you wouldn't fit through the door.
Rather, the dresses were there to make a splash. The man who once put a rocket up Gucci is now letting off fireworks under his new customers. They probably loved it. Not only was this fashion as sheer theatre, there were also some amazingly beautiful clothes.
A drop-waisted red gown with a multi-tiered chiffon skirt would fulfil any baby billionairess's Disney fantasies. A poetic tiered chiffon-and-lace skirt and top and a black party dress with a lot of oomph were both crowd pleasers, while a beautifully cut white jacket and black embroidered skirt are showstoppers. Lauren Bacall would have snapped up the ivory dress and matching trimmed cape and the crimson watered silk gown was pure drama.
Oh, and props to Michele for casting the only models at Couture who weren't absurdly young. Some even had grey hair. And perhaps, under the Nan's nightlight cape the odd one mightn't even have been size zero. That really would light a bonfire under Couture week.