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Where Have All the Dollar Eats Gone?

Where Have All the Dollar Eats Gone?

Hi everyone, it's the new kid. Starting this week, I'll be taking over for Nikita Richardson as one of the writers on this newsletter. How'd I land the best job in the world? A little over a year ago, I left my job at Eater New York, where I covered restaurants from a super-local, nerd's-eye view for five years. I started freelance reporting for The Times, and quickly found a niche writing about 20-year-old Taco Bell menu items and 13-year-old drink critics. Then I aged several years this spring by eating more than 200 slices of pizza to update our best pizza list.
As I stood in line for Neapolitan pies and road tripped through Staten Island, I was also searching for a dollar slice. I know, I know, not exactly the height of culinary prowess. But this is New York — and more-than-decent, affordable pizza is one of our most famous food.
It comes as no surprise that most of them have vanished; after all, New York City restaurants can't necessarily abide by the stalwart economics of Arizona Iced Tea or the Costco hot dog. They're up against credit card fees, punishing rents and other factors that have all but wiped out dollar food. And it's not just slices.
Still, I had a hunch that at least some $1 deals have endured.
If you consult Google Maps, the 99-cent pizzeria appears to still be going strong, with search results scattered across the city. But when I'd show up I almost always found that the menus had been taped over with new prices. As it turns out, $1.50 Pizza is the new 99¢ Pizza.
One of the few holdouts is the East Village location of 99¢ Pizza, just down the block from Joe's Pizza, where, by the way, a plain slice costs $4. Every time I've visited 99¢, no matter the hour, there are college students and helmeted delivery workers hanging around the entrance, happily refueling with buffalo chicken and pepperoni pizza. Obviously, the best part is that the puffy cheese slices still cost a buck. Though they're really more of a vessel, put on this earth to be showered in garlic powder, dried oregano and red flakes.
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