David Koma Berlin Spring 2026 Collection
Anyone familiar with Koma's womenswear may have had a very specific image in mind of what his menswear would look like. Black, cool, very body-conscious and clear in its sexy message. Instead we saw preppy and sporty joggers, oversized houndstooth patterns, and light resort shirts paired with gray suit pants. Even the tuxedo wasn't black this time, with Koma sending it down the runway in a dark beige. It seemed as if he wanted to play a little with contrasts that have never been so clear in his design language before.
Rarely was it about necessity; everything was purely for the look. And when in doubt, that often meant combining a voluminous fur coat with ripped jeans and sandals. 'The desire to now also do men's fashion wasn't just based on the desire to expand our brand. I also wanted to learn new things and train my design muscles,' Koma said with a grin. He was wearing an 'I Love David' shirt under his jacket.
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Forbes
23-07-2025
- Forbes
David Koma's SS26 menswear show was one of the most talked about collections at Berlin Fashion Week
DAVID KOMA'S Runway Show Berlin Fashion Week SS26 by Reference Studios at Palais am FunkturmDavid Koma's Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show was never going to be quiet, but by choosing Berlin he nodded to the direction his menswear brand David Koma will take — full of verve and packed with subcultural references. At Berlin Fashion Week Koma took over Bruno Grimmek and Werner Düttmann's 1957 Palais am Funkturm for the Intervention initiative run by buzzy PR agency Reference Studios, an invite scheme for designers backed by funding from the German Fashion Council. His collection I Love David was a sharp blend of ego, irony, and iconography. England player David Beckham on his mobile phone at the launch of the Adidas 'I kiss Football' ... More campaign at adidas HQ in Stockport on March 15, 2001 . (Photo Gary M Prior/Allsport/Getty Images)For Koma, at the helm of Blumarine as creative director and known for bringing body-conscious evening wear into mid-2000s culture, his Berlin debut linked his love for Y2K that run through his throwback designs at Blumarine with a playful riff on the concept of David, from Beckham to the designer himself. The Intervention program gave Koma the opportunity to be eccentric with the concept of a muse. His collection zoned in on three Davids—David Beckham, Michelangelo's David, and David Koma. Beckham brought back classic 1990s headline moments— low-slung jeans, crystal-trimmed tanks, and a tongue-in-cheek rhinestone tee nodding to the footballer's iconic 'I Kiss Football' moment. Michelangelo's David counterbalanced this with draped marble-like tops, lace aprons rendered in crochet, and souvenir-shop camp reimagined as high fashion while Koma's own trademarks of tailoring, sculptural flourishes and sex appeal anchored the collection. Here he talks to Grace Banks about building a namesake brand that's both personal and commercial, the return of sex to the runway and maintaining a decades-long career in a rapidly evolving industry. DAVID KOMA Runway Show Berlin Fashion Week SS26 by Reference Studios at Palais am Funkturm, Berlin You're only a couple of seasons into you new menswear line, how does it feel like to show your spring 2026 collection in Berlin? You know, I consider myself both the customer and a creator of I Love David. I've never approached collections with that perspective before and it feels personal again. Showing in Berlin, a city I respect on so many levels, makes that choice even more personal. One of the most important things for me is that I would enjoy the moment, because very often things that I do, they're amazing, but I need to wait a day or two or a week just to kind of digest it all. I told myself I would enjoy the moment more this do you enjoy the moment? I've really tried to be present in every single part of the experience and not just the show, from sourcing material to the model castings. During the show, and even now talking to you, I really feel calm, happy and relaxed. So I do enjoy centered the collection on three Davids—including yourself! I'm a huge fan of David Beckham and his iconic style throughout so many decades. So I always had him on the mood board, and the more time passed it became clear how symbolic the name David is for me. My favorite sculpture is Michaelangelo's David. And then there's me, I'm in good did you work those very different David personas into a coherent collection? The draping, broaches and tailoring mixe the classical with contemporary. Then there is this whole kind of paparazzi era with the diamanté and the jeans. The models were wearing my glasses, that unified the whole look. Then there's a few signatures of this collection— the garter detail that we had over the couple of trousers. I wanted to add these spikes of sex and glamour so there are flower broaches inspired by KOMA Runway Show Berlin Fashion Week SS26 by Reference Studios at Palais am Funkturm, Berlin The lace apron is a reference to those aprons you get in Florence with Michelangelo's David on, but you wanted to elevate the materials. What was that process like? Yes it started with that, you know the lacy tourist aprons you get all over Florence. But I applied this really elevated technique, which is like a silk crochet by hand. It's very couture, but still staying true to the touristy souvenirs from Florence. So I thought, have a sense of humour—keep the basic shape but make the texture there similarities between the David Koma woman and man? The man is more edgy, like the guys in Berlin. The woman is glamourous—glamorous women love to date grungy guys so it works!You launched your namesake label in 2009 and joined Blumarine as creative director in 2024, one of the buzziest brands on the market now. How have you stayed so nimble and made sure your creative vision was in the market over the years? You need to obsessed you really do. Access and opportunity are key too. Obsession really is essential. With what, trust me, you'll be successful.
Hypebeast
12-07-2025
- Hypebeast
Maison Margiela & CELINE Debut New Directors as Balenciaga Says Farewell in This Week's Top Fashion News
Glenn Martensmade his long-awaited debut forMaison Margiela, presenting a memorable collection rooted inMartin Margiela's visionary legacy and the romantic contributions of the tenured former creative directorJohn Galliano. On July 9, the designer took his audience back to where Martin Margiela staged his final collection in March 2009 at Parisian cultural space Le Centquatre. The opening directly references the 2009 show with translucent polyurethane armor. Later, what appeared to be leather coats were finished with a rigid and rugged quality, and even the seemingly light, graceful fabrics appeared burnt and tattered. Towards the close, renewal became imminent in technicolor florals, and a long-sleeve dress covered with the spoils of a golden treasure chest. While the impressive debut marks a new era at Maison Margiela, Martens demonstrated his skill in advancing established legacies with novelty. Michael Riderdebuted his highly anticipated first collection as creative director forCELINEin Paris. This homecoming marks a new era for the luxury house, defined by preppy styles, sculptural silhouettes, glamorous eveningwear, and skinny jeans, following Hedi Slimane's departure. Rider, who previously worked at CELINE underPhoebe Philo, emphasized the brand's core values: quality, timelessness, and enduring style. His collection blended business with extravagance, featuring muted trench coats and blazers accessorized with decadent gold jewelry. Bold blues, saturated reds, and rich greens appeared on oversized bags and perfectly proportioned sportswear. Rider's vision prioritizes longevity, aiming to create investment pieces that transcend generations and become a cherished part of the wearer's life. In his final collection forBalenciaga,Demnamarked the end of his decade-long tenure, reflecting on fashion's constant evolution. He emphasized the industry's need to 'dress the future before it has a name,' a profound statement underscoring his design philosophy. The 54th Couture collection, set in Paris, featured campaign stars likeKim KardashianandNaomi Campbell. Demna reimagined classic 'La Bourgeoisie' styles with bold tailoring and subtle prints, alongside Hollywood-inspired glamour, notably referencing Elizabeth Taylor. Men's looks showcased his signature elevation of everyday items, including a couture sneaker and a 'jewelry box' laptop case, blending the mundane with the extraordinary. This collection, seen as a clean slate before Pierpaolo Piccioli takes over, was notably subdued and elegant, focusing on meticulous detail rather than past gimmicks. Berlin Fashion Week SS26showcased an impressive lineup of designers, drawing international attention to the city's top talent. The event highlighted unique fashion manifestos, includingDavid Koma's debut menswear catwalk, 'I LOVE DAVID,' which featured wearable formal ensembles inspired by David Beckham and Michelangelo's David. GmbH's Spring 2026 show, 'Imitation of Life,' offered a poetic and emotional commentary on the global state, looking to childhood for a hopeful Beil's 'Milieuschutz' collection marked a return to intention, reflecting on transformation and responsibility, with designs inspired by their new studio in an old pharmacy. Lastly,SF1OG's Spring 2026 show explored obsessive desire and emotional decay through the lens of a teenage dream, showcasing youthful freedom and craftsmanship on antique textiles. Justin Bieberhas officially launched his new fashion label,SKYLRK, unveiling its first vibrant collection. This venture marks a shift from his previous brand, Drew House, reflecting a new creative vision. After nearly 18 months of teasing, the initial drop features a range of apparel and accessories, including hoodies, headwear, oversized sunglasses, and two footwear models. The collection boasts hoodies in 'Fizz' yellow, 'Super Blue,' and 'Smudge' black, complemented by beanies in 'Gum' pink, 'Jelly' red, and 'Fizz.' A standout piece is the 'Upside Down' oversized sunglasses with bold, bubbled lenses, an aesthetic echoed in the 'Chunky Mule' and 'Beach Slide' footwear. The entire collection is now available on SKYLRK's official webstore, with further brand details expected soon. DesignerHeron Prestonhas reacquired full rights to his namesake brand fromNew Guards Group(NGG), signaling a fresh start. Preston, who launched his label under NGG in 2017, bought back control amidst strategic shifts for NGG, including a recent bankruptcy filing and its acquisition by Coupang. This move follows other brands likeAMBUSHandPalm Angelsalso departing NGG's portfolio. Preston emphasized his commitment to his creative vision, stating he 'fought for my name, my work and my vision.' Now based in Brooklyn and independent of external investors, he is poised to launch his next collection in October. This reacquisition allows Preston to fully focus on expanding his unique design aesthetic, marking an exciting new chapter for the brand.
Hypebeast
07-07-2025
- Hypebeast
The Best Runways at Berlin Fashion Week SS26
The design talent in Berlin is rich, and the crowd the German capital draws for its bi-annual fashion week is particularly impassioned. Each February and June, international editors, journalists, stylists, buyers, influencers, and celebrities flock to the city to witness the sprawling manifestos of Berlin's top designers — and the results continue to outdo their predecessors. Everyone fromGmbHandDavid KomatoOttolingerandHADERLUMPput their best needle forward at the latest iteration ofBerlin Fashion Week, which wrapped up at the end of last week. Their ideas of style could not be more distinct from one another, but one thing they all share is a strong perspective. Below, see the best shows from the affair. Sun's out, toes out—or so that seems to be the new rule across the men's Spring 2026 runways. During Berlin Fashion Week, David Koma became the latest designer to free the toe on his first-ever menswear catwalk. Across all 33 looks, the dogs roamed free in thong sandals under contrastingly formal ensembles inspired by a triad of Davids: David Beckham, Michelangelo's sculptural David, and Koma himself. Titled 'I LOVE DAVID,' the collection drew from Beckham's turn-of-the-millennium style (with a specific nod to his famous 'I KISS FOOTBALL' jersey) just as much as it did from Michelangelo's masterful artistry (see the formalwear's drapery) and Koma's own signature (crystal garters, classic tailoring). With cultural and historical icons saturating the mood board, the line still appeared very wearable, in part thanks to the flip-flop's attainability. Perhaps that was because Koma saw himself as the person buying and wearing these clothes. 'It was my most personal collection to date, partly because I took on several roles: muse, designer, and customer,' Koma said backstage. On the third night of Berlin Fashion Week, GmbH's Spring 2026 show was a poetic, emotional, and raw 'Imitation of Life.' Designers Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Işik's latest manifesto was a commentary on the current state of the globe. 'The cruelty of this world has severed our connection to it,' they wrote in their show notes. 'We no longer know how to act or feel.' This collection, however, was not inspired by said cruelty or destruction. This was a line that reflected the 'process of working and living through a time defined by the most abject forms of horror and moral collapse, and trying to come out on the other side still human.' In that attempt, the designers looked to their own childhoods, rewatched family tapes, and examined old rites of passage to dream up a line that felt hopeful for the future. Still, they toiled with a sobering question: 'How can you revisit your childhood without feeling devastated?' Richert Beil's Spring 2026 show marked a return to intention. Titled 'Milieuschutz,' the collection was built while founders Jale Richert and Michele Beil were leaving behind their old office and moving into a new studio, a 135-year-old pharmacy situated in the center of Kreuzberg, an area now known for its vibrant art scene. This season, then, Richert Beil looked to reflect on 'beginnings and endings, on transformation, and on the responsibility of creating something with meaning,' per the designers. The results were both intimate and orderly, freaky and kinky. Floral motifs appeared across the range—like tapestry on oversized blazers and centerpieces on knit turtlenecks—as a metaphor for the cycle of growth and decay. Elsewhere, many traditional shapes received contemporary renovations, like lederhosen made with latex and suspenders knotted with cheeky bowties. On an active construction site just outside Berlin's Kurfürstendamm, SF1OG's Spring 2026 show walked the dangerous tightrope between obsessive desire and emotional decay. Portraying two intensely opposing feelings, creative director Rosa Dahl effectively stylized the consequences of all-consuming love, but through the lens of a teenage dream. The label's muses crept through a suspended forest made from printed fabric pillars, which felt all the more claustrophobic against composer Gavriel August's thrilling soundscape and the room's in-progress sensibilities. Their fashions longed for youthful freedom, awkwardness, and chaos: flared sequin capes paired with low-rise trousers, while sheer long-sleeve tops complemented baggy skirt pants and tights alike. Across the line, SF1OG's affinity for old-time craftsmanship — lacework, corsetry, and distressing included — looked especially impressive on antique textiles, like vintage wools, leathers, and silks. Here, Dahl's goal was to show the audience a mirror to 'our own volatile, uncertain eras' — all of the conflicting phases throughout adolescence and beyond that, together, make us who we are. And if the number of illusory arrows targeting models' heads wasn't proof enough, SF1OG hit the bullseye. Ottolinger designers Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient presented their first-ever show in their home city of Berlin this season to celebrate their label's 10th anniversary. At the Palais am Funktrum, the imprint's runway, titled 'Heidi,' was filled with powerful, feminine-powered 'fits — all part of a stylistic story about being an older sister. 'Being the cooler older sister isn't about being perfect,' the brand wrote in its show notes. 'It's about having lived-loved too hard, fallen harder, found her way back, and doing it all in a way that makes you believe you can too. She's the one who broke the rules first — so you wouldn't have to be afraid of breaking them.' As you can imagine, the result looked fearless. Haderlump Atelier's Spring 2026 collection was all about authorship and ownership—hence, the massive piles of printed and signed words that provided the set for Johann Ehrhardt's latest manifesto. The line's title, 'Exlibro,' Latin for 'from the books,' references the miniature nameplates that were once kept inside books as a means of identification. Those tiny artworks, per the label, were mottos, coats of arms, and mythological figures, 'each one a quiet yet deliberate declaration: This is mine. This is who I am.' HADERLUMP's fashion line championed that concept, dressing its scholarly muses in sculptural and expressive silhouettes inspired by those historical bookplates. Thus, strong-shouldered coats and clean bombers asserted dominance, while layered skirts flowed from their wearers' waists like pages from a book. The intention was for each design to look like a personal artifact, and it's safe to say we could see many of these pieces in a far-off retrospective. PALMWINE IceCREAM's Spring 2026 collection, 'MUSE,' was a masterful presentation of bursting color. Bridging his two hometowns of London and Accra, founder and designer Kusi Kubi was inspired by all of the empowered women in his life and their contributions to his creativity and community. In a kaleidoscopic celebration of femininity, the line's naturally dyed leathers, organza, mesh, and deadstock textiles turned up the genderless line's exposure to the max. Northern Ghanaian leather, specifically, claimed the leading role with coloring done by generational tree bark and sun-dying methods. Elsewhere, giraffe-printed boots were hand-painted, and striking bags were constructed with embellished calabash shells.
