Ceylon Tea Trails hotel review: a bucolic bolt hole in remote Sri Lankan countryside
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Score 7/10Five historic tea-planter bungalows dating back as far as 1888 have been restored and remodelled into luxe lodges, scattered across 2,000 acres of tea country. Spread apart across sprawling estates (as far as 10 miles from each other), you'll find three of the lodges perched on the banks and hills of Castlereagh Reservoir, with a further two overlooking swooping Bogawantalawa valley. More private home than hotel, each lodge has a team of personal butlers to attend to your every whim and fancy, be it delivering freshly brewed tea and biscuits to your bedroom at any hour, or laundering your clothes after long romps across the estate. There are shared sitting rooms for spreading across squashy sofas, and a formal restaurant is eschewed in favour of relaxed indoor-outdoor dining areas.
Colonial accents reign supreme in the five or so suites contained within each bungalow: think graceful four-posters swathed in linen and rattan furnishings. Mod-cons such as TVs and air conditioning are missing, but there's plenty of old-school charm to make up for it, from vintage black-and-white portraits to terraces that lead onto tranquil private gardens. Spacious bathrooms feature clawfoot bath tubs, double vanities and marble checkered floors.
• Discover our full guide to Sri Lanka
Score 7/10Mornings begin with a pot of brew brought to your bedroom — a colonial tradition named 'bed tea' — before languid breakfasts of egg hoppers and omelettes nibbled on the verandah. Set menus for lunch and dinner are devised each day by the chef (the only choice you'll have to make is between the Western and Sri Lankan menu), with four-course suppers encompassing tea-infused dishes and warming curries. Afternoon tea is a carefully observed ritual, where you can tuck into homemade scones with lashings of rhubarb jam and clotted cream. Stays are fully inclusive of all meals, snacks and tipples, so it's impossible to go hungry; in lieu of minibars in the bedrooms, pour yourself a drink in the drawing room, and simply request something to nibble whenever you're peckish, and the team will appear with homemade cakes and sandwiches.
• Best things to do in Sri Lanka• Best beaches in Sri Lanka
Score 8/10There's no central hub here: instead, the lodges function almost entirely as singular properties, with separate pools and sitting areas to lounge across. Days are mostly spent outside: there's endless acreage of tea country to explore, and it's worth heading out into the tangle with one of the hotel's expert guides, who can navigate the best routes for striking views over Castlereagh Reservoir. Winding pathways snake across miles and miles of plantation, framed by mango and eucalyptus trees, centuries-old granite, and bushes blossoming with all kinds of tropical flora. Along your route, it's worth scoping out the other lodges that form Ceylon Tea Trails, followed by tea tastings and picnic lunches in the treetops.
For an immersive deep dive into Sri Lankan tea culture, a visit to Dunkeld Tea Factory is a must: it's here that you'll be able to witness some of the behind-the-scenes action that's part of Dilmah Tea's production. Kayaking across Castlereagh Reservoir, sunrise hikes to Adam's Peak,and expeditions further afield to Kandy and Ella can all be arranged. There's no spa or gym here, but sun-soaked afternoons are spent by the pool and heated whirlpool.
Score 7/10Found in Sri Lanka's Central Highlands, Ceylon Tea Trails is as remote as can be: it's a 4-5 hour drive from Colombo Airport (traffic dependent), or a scenic 30 minute flight by seaplane, where you'll land directly on Castlereagh Reservoir. Kandy, Ella, and Nuwara Eliya stretch out in various directions: the journey time is around 2-3 hours to each of these towns. Thanks to the rugged roads and winding pathways, mobility isn't the easiest here, but there's plenty of opportunity to roam far and wide within the plantations.
Price B&B doubles £531Restaurant n/aFamily-friendly YAccessible N
Gina Jackson was a guest of Ceylon Tea Trails (resplendentceylon.com)
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Time Out
09-07-2025
- Time Out
The StandardX, Bangkok Phra Arthit
Why stay at The StandardX? When The StandardX announced its Bangkok debut in late 2024, it caused quite a stir among design lovers and coolhunters. This sibling to the glam Standard brand is the edgier, younger artist in the family. Located right on Phra Arthit Road, in Bangkok's historic Rattanakosin Island, The StandardX fuses old-town soul with Gen Z style. The hotel stands out immediately. Outside, a figure by (aka Varagun 'Andy' Chongthanapipat) welcomes you like a surreal sentinel. Inside, the aesthetic punches with impact, with high ceilings, gallery-like corridors and rotating art exhibitions that make your stay feel like you're checking into a living installation. Upon arrival, guests are greeted with a refreshing welcome drink, just the right touch to ease into the hotel's creative and easy vibe. What are the rooms like at The StandardX? I stayed in the Deluxe Riverview room, and let me tell you, it's got charm. A welcome amenity kit (complete with a hand fan, an 'X'-branded tote and a candy jar) sets a playful tone. The colour scheme is modern, with monochrome tones. The robes that hang in the wardrobe pop with electric blue. Cosy lighting comes both from the glow of passing boats on the Chao Phraya river and the warm-toned lamps around your room. The bathroom is thoughtfully designed, playing with deep blues and white tiles, with a wood wall cabinet and a wood-and-black marble table under the sink to add warmth. It has all the basics: shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, and lotion, though you'll need to request a toothbrush set from reception. There's a mini fridge, drip coffee, Dilmah tea and a few drinks and snacks for purchase, including fizzy oolong and craft beer. The bed is big and soft, dressed with a cosy blanket that makes it hard to leave in the morning. Desk space is generous, with two work tables and multiple seating options. But the crown jewel is the balcony. With chairs, a table and uninterrupted river views, including the nearby Phra Arthit pier, it's a fantastic spot for sundown musings or a morning coffee. What are the best places to eat at The StandardX? The hotel's signature restaurant, Bang, is a riot of colour and creativity. Guests can choose to dine outdoors under fairy lights with the river in view, or sit inside among paintings and playfully mismatched furniture like transparent coloured chairs at stainless steel tables. The menu focuses on elevated Thai cuisine, with clear respect for tradition and a modern sense of fun. Start with their standout som tum platter, crispy and fresh papaya salad served with grilled pork jowl, chicken, deep-fried white pork sausage, rice noodles and sticky rice. Full-on feast mode. Massaman curry with Benja chicken (sous-vided for two hours!) was equally memorable and roti with caramelised banana made for a sticky, crispy finish. Drinks here have got you covered with herbal tonics, cold-pressed juices, classic cocktails, local craft beers, mocktails and a wine list that doesn't skimp. The atmosphere at Bang is so inviting that it doubles as the breakfast spot for guests – a treat I couldn't resist returning for the next morning. Breakfast is a la carte and unlimited. The pork congee hits all the comforting notes, while 'eggs your way' lets guests choose sides like chicken sausage, grilled tomatoes, baked beans and streaky bacon. There's also a solid vegetarian selection, plus yogurt, fresh fruit and stir-fried Singapore-style noodles . What are the facilities like at The StandardX? To reach the rooftop pool, you wind your way past artwork, murals and cheeky design touches tucked into nooks. You'll arrive first at The Roof, the hotel's top-floor bar with knockout city and river views. Perched on the sixth floor, The Roof is inspired by the robust flavours of Mexico. Step just beyond that and you'll find the pool, a sky-high rectangle overlooking the majestic Rama VIII Bridge with views of the Chao Phraya. At dusk, with music playing and the river glistening, it's hard to think of a better place to be. If you're into art, you'll love the programming. During my stay, the hallways featured works by Pahn Riety, a surreal collection titled Ballad for the Breathing, hosted by 10 10 Art Space. And from August 1-3 2025, The StandardX will host Mango Art Festival's 'Urban Collectibles 2025,' an event uniting independent galleries, emerging artists and collectors from across Thailand and beyond. What is the service like at The StandardX? Service here feels intuitive. Staff are casually dressed but professionally tuned-in, with just the right mix of friendliness and discretion. At breakfast, servers checked in often enough to make you feel seen, but never interrupted. On checkout, the front desk let me browse local craft stalls while they confirmed the room. It's the kind of place that gives warm, human, stylishly relaxed vibes. What's the area like around The StandardX? The StandardX sits on Phra Arthit Road, a stretch of Bangkok's Old Town with equal parts grit and grace. It's a five-minute walk to Khaosan Road (party central). Phra Arthit Pier is right next door, offering easy boat connections up and down the Chao Phraya. Opposite the hotel is Coconut Culture, a popular ice cream shop that swaps out dairy for coconut. Just down the street is Nai Soie Beef Noodle, a legendary beef noodle shop, and around the corner is 108 Juices, famous for its fresh, no-water, no-sugar juices, ideal for a post-party detox or pre-breakfast pick-me-up. The neighbourhood combines Thai elements with youthful energy. Think indie cafes, Santichaiprakarn Park, cultural festivals, ancient temples and river breezes, all within walking distance. Why should you book a stay at The StandardX? If you want a stay that mixes art, food, design and culture, this is your place. It's stylish without being try-hard, service is warm but not overbearing, and the atmosphere is one of creative freedom. The StandardX feels like both a hotel made for tourists and a creative retreat for the globally curious. Whether you're a local on a staycation or a traveller seeking something more than a room with a view, The StandardX delivers. My tip? Book a Riverview room, come during an art week and don't miss that rooftop pool at sunset. Address: 45/1 Phra Athit Rd, Chana Songkhram, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok, Thailand.
The Independent
27-06-2025
- The Independent
Sri Lanka travel guide: Everything to know before you go
Sri Lanka can be best described as south Asia in miniature form, filled with beaches, elephants, tea plantations, curries, sacred rituals, colourful ceremonies, and most of all, warmly welcoming people. Hailed as the 'Pearl of the Indian Ocean' and the 'Teardrop of India ', this ancient island nation has long been celebrated – and coveted – for its abundant landscapes, strategic significance, and rare beauty. Sri Lanka's past is remarkably well preserved, despite years of unrest and strife. From Victorian-era colonial clubs to centuries-old Buddhist temples, layer after layer of Sri Lankan history is within reach. Its natural heritage is rich, too. Ten national parks provide sanctuary for sloth bears to sambars, leopards to lorises, and of course plenty of elephants. For such a small island (roughly the size of Ireland), the diversity here is striking – you can climb mist-robed mountains, surf silvery shores, trek through abundant jungle, all in the same day. Sri Lanka's cities have that frenetic, cheerful chaos common to Asian cities, whether it's Colombo 's colonial grandeur or Kandy's exalted lakeside lifestyle. Either way, the coast's serenity is never far, with some of the finest beaches in the world ready to embrace you: champagne-coloured sand, palms in regal repose, and the tropical waters of the Indian Ocean. Best time to go It depends on what you're looking for. Thanks to its dual monsoon pattern, December-April tends to be best for beaches and wildlife excursions on the south and west of the island, while the dry months of May-September unlock access to the north and east. Each side has its pick of stunning locations, and if you want to see both (without getting drenched) then September-October and April are the shoulder seasons for you, offering cooler temperatures, fewer tourists and excellent hiking opportunities. April coincides with the local new year celebrations, so be wary of increased congestion on the transport networks. Top cities and regions Kandy Kandy is Sri Lanka's beating heart: Holy town, hilltop enclave, and spiritual centre. Sri Lanka's ancient customs and natural beauty come together here, with temples, shrines and palaces reflected in the glassy surface of the lake, hugged by hills as green as any you'll ever see. Take the Main Line train from Colombo, wind your way up the mountains, and enjoy one of the world's most celebrated railway rides. Kandy is where Sri Lanka's kings resided, and it's easy to see why; today, the entirety of Kandy is a Unesco World Heritage site. Despite the crowds, be sure to visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, Sri Lanka's greatest religious relic, and said to be from the Buddha's own mouth. While you can't see the tooth itself – only the case is on display – the temple itself is beautiful, with many chambers, galleries and artefacts. Go in the evening to witness the prayers and the candlelight. Further along the train line is Ella, where the British plantation owners once resided, and home to Ella Rock, whose summit is a challenging but reasonable hike (three–four hours). Whitewashed, manicured, and orderly, Galle feels like a prestigious Mediterranean seaside resort. No wonder: it was founded by the Portuguese and expanded by the Dutch. Galle's architecture and atmosphere have a distinctly European feel, from the prim and proper lighthouse to the austere Protestant churches. Gone are the laid-back surfer vibes of Weligama and Marisa, replaced by well-to-do couples, fashionable boutiques, and candlelit dinners. Explore the well-preserved fort by daylight before taking a stroll down the tranquil lanes and avenues of the town itself. The seafood food is spectacular, the bars plentiful, and the nights balmy and untroubled. Just don't expect much nightlife. Colombo Crowded, frenetic, and choked up, Colombo used to be dismissed as merely the place from which to fly in and out. But Colombo has history, culture and excellent food. If you're keen on colonial history, the city boasts some of the best-preserved architecture from anywhere in the former British Empire. If not, there are plenty of temples, museums, and shrines besides. Hop on a tuk-tuk and explore an anthology of Sri Lanka's past: the mind-melting stripes of Jami Ul-Alfar mosque; the statues of the Gangaramaya (Vihara) Buddhist temple; and St Anthony's Shrine, a Catholic church illuminated at night. Gathering these cultural riches is the Colombo National Museum, the biggest in Sri Lanka and featuring over 100,000 artefacts. Anuradhapura and Sigiriya The ancient city of Anuradhapura was abandoned in the 13th century, and was overgrown by jungle until the 19 th century. Since then, it has flourished as a site for both Buddhist pilgrims and tourists, who flock to see the shrines and relics. One of the most visited is a sacred pipal tree, planted in 245BC from a cutting of the Bo tree, under which it's said the Buddha attained enlightenment. It's recognised as the oldest cultivated tree in the world. Even more iconic are the Dagobas, the wide-domed Buddhist temples that dominate the city. Ruwanwelisaya, the oldest and the grandest, can get crowded. Instead, go wherever the ceremonies are taking place. Outside of the city lies Mihintale, a hilltop where the first Buddhist monastery is said to have converted a Sri Lankan king and his hunting party. The view from the peak of the hills is spectacular, but go at sunrise rather than sunset, or prepare to huddle among couples. Just over an hour away is Sigiriya, a rock formation featuring an ancient fortress. It's another Unesco site, and possibly the single most popular attraction in the country. Although entry is a little pricey (£25 for foreign visitors), it's worth it. You'll see ancient frescoes, the centuries-old Mirror Wall, and the enormous – scarcely-believable – lion's paws guarding the summit (the remains of what was originally a towering stone lion). It's 350-odd metres to the summit, so wear your exercise gear and prepare to sweat. Arugam Bay and Kumana National Park Sri Lanka isn't short of beaches. The crescent-moon sands of Arugam Bay are among the best. While Weligama, Mirissa, and Hikkaduwa have more of a party vibe, Arugam Bay's tranquil beauty is better suited to relaxing. Pitched on the unspoilt east coast, the waves are best between May and October – when the rest of Sri Lanka is beset by monsoon rains and ocean currents. Arugam Bay's thatched huts and sleepy shoreline is one of the finest places to get away from it all. The waves at Main Point are some of the best in Sri Lanka. When you're ready to explore again, hail a tuk-tuk and head to Kumana National Park. Unlike Yala, its famous neighbour, Kumana National Park retains much more of its wilderness – less zoo, more sanctuary. It's especially good for bird spotting, with hundreds of species nesting there. A guide is included with entry, which means you can't tour the park alone, but they're such good spotters that it makes for a much better experience. Best under-the-radar destinations Jaffna Until recently, the north of Sri Lanka was scarcely visited due to the 25-year civil war, with the Tamil-controlled northern regions engulfed in conflict. With the war long since over, travellers are returning to Jaffna, the biggest city in the north and previously completely inaccessible. India is the cultural force here, not the Singhalese of Sri Lanka, and you immediately sense the difference. Language, food, atmosphere are all south Indian; Tamil rather than Sinhalese, masala dhosa rather than kottu roti, Shiva rather than Buddha. The biggest Hindu temple in Sri Lanka, Nallur Kandaswamy, is as vibrant and impressive as any in India, and if you're hazy about the differences between Hinduism and Buddhism, exploring Nallur Kandaswamy after being in the south will sharpen you up. Jaffna's fort is smaller than Galle's but is much less crowded, and especially beautiful at sunset. And fewer tourists means the locals are less accustomed to dealing with foreigners, though no less welcoming. Wilpattu National Park It's Sri Lanka's biggest national park, dominating the north-west coast, but Wilpattu has an undiscovered, secretive feel. While more popular national parks have 'Disneyfied' the wildlife experience, with viewing stations, zoo-like enclosures, and money-making animal encounters, Wilpattu is wilderness proper. If you want to pat an elephant and get a hundred likes for it, stick to Yala; if you want to lose yourself in dense woodland – quietly sighting a spotted deer, sloth bear or leopard – then Wilpattu is unsurpassed. Check into one of the forest lodges in the park, stick your jodhpurs on and experience a traditional safari game drive around the park. Trincomalee Given the sheer beauty of its glittering bay, it's a wonder that Trincomalee isn't better-known. Head over to the north-east coast and dip into a miniature world all of its own: tropical beaches bunched together like ripe fruit, shrines where the centuries peel away to reveal age-old rituals, and lagoon water as clear as crushed crystal. Half a dozen of Trincomalee's beaches could make a strong claim for best on the island. Crack open a coconut, kick off your sandals, and luxuriate in the sunshine. When you're ready to amble, there's a colonial-era fort, historic temples, and rocky outcrops where you can spot blue whales. Best things to do Take the train deep into the tea plantations Whatever else you get up to in Sri Lanka, make absolutely sure that you take the Main Line train from Colombo to Kandy, and then from Kandy all the way to Ella. It takes eight hours or more, but this is one of those journeys that's worth savouring. The train climbs inland from the coast, cutting through rock, farmland and jungle. You'll travel across mountains veiled in mist, hillsides carpeted with tea leaves, and imposing brick-arched bridges from another era. If you fancy a cocktail and a party, stay on until at Ella; if you want a cup of tea and tranquillity, get off at Nuwara Eliyah. Get a taste of surf culture Surfing can be tough, physically draining, and utterly, blissfully exhausting. Getting on a board is daunting, especially when surrounded by confident surfers strutting about, so find a school that's right for you. Although Weligama is the surf hotspot, there are less crowded (and much prettier) places to learn all along the south coast, such as Mirissa, Ahangama, or Unawatuna, which are also great for beginners. While you can surf just for the day, it takes some getting used to, so if you have the time check into a surf camp for a few days. Plunging into the sea every morning, feeling the pump and force of the waves, and collapsing on the sands in happy fatigue afterwards is a rewarding, nourishing, and vital experience – especially if you combine it with some yoga. Plus, there is no appetite quite like the one worked up on a surfboard, so when you finally sit down for your coconut curry it'll taste even better. Get up close to wildlife Many conservation projects in Sri Lanka are preserving wildlife sustainably while also giving you unparalleled access. Since the early 1990s, numbers of elephants, leopards, and other endangered species have risen considerably, and sustainable tourism has helped. The Smithsonian Primate Research Station, near Polonnaruwa, is the oldest of its kind in the world and Bundala's flamingo-filled wetlands are a Unesco biosphere reserve. The safaris in the national parks – Wilpattu, Udawalawe, and Wasgamuwa – rival almost anything in Africa. Getting around Travelling by train isn't just convenient, it's also a quintessential journey through Sri Lanka's history and a window unto its landscapes, and is also very cheap. For short journeys, it has to be tuk-tuk. Individually decorated, stubbornly persistent and formidably cheap, travelling by tuk-tuk quickly becomes addictive. It's not always comfortable, especially if you squeeze three or more into the backseat, but it's a great way to chat to locals and get the wind in your hair. Agree the fee in advance, especially in tourist areas, but remember the country has just come off suffering from a fuel crisis – if you can afford to fork out an extra hundred rupees, do it. Otherwise, when you need that 6am ride to the airport or that drive down from the mountains to the coast, book a taxi. Many tuk-tuk drivers also have cars, so ask ahead about a taxi service. Roads are generally well maintained and safe, but driving can be erratic. How to get there Sri Lankan Airways offer direct flights between London and Colombo. Other airlines offer stopovers, often in Doha or Dubai. Money-saving tip Travel and food are cheap in Sri Lanka, but accommodation is comparatively expensive. Alcohol is pricey, too – this is a conservative island, and the drinking culture is much less raucous here than in the rest of south-east Asia. There's no real hostel culture either, so the best value are the guesthouses, which are often family-run and very friendly. If you want the full-on luxury experience, Sri Lanka offers an enviable abundance of Western opulence – at Western prices, so book in advance. Tipping isn't expected, but haggling very much is. Friendly negotiation is part of the transaction here, so get stuck in. Current travel restrictions and entry requirements The Department of Immigration and Emigration has a online embarkation form. Foreign nationals can complete the online form three days prior to arrival in Sri Lanka. The service is free of charge. All visitors are advised to apply online for an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) to enter Sri Lanka; you can apply for on the ETA website. As entry requirements are liable to change, check the UK's Foreign Office's travel advice website before any travel for updates. FAQs What's the weather like? Thanks to its ocean winds, Sri Lanka is tropical and enjoyably warm most of the year round, with coastal temperatures averaging around 28C and upland areas averaging between 16-20C. The island experiences a dual monsoon, affecting one side of the island at a time. The south-western region and central highlands receive most of the island's rainfall, whilst the north and the east experience a distinct dry season from May to September. Take a jacket – the evenings can get chilly. What time zone is it in? Sri Lanka Standard Time, GMT+5:30 What currency do I need? The Sri Lankan rupee. You can get hold of these before travel, or you can exchange or withdraw some after arrival. Exchanging at the airport will be more expensive, but it's also a reliable 24/7 service and a good place to set yourself up for the next few days. Although card payments are growing increasingly popular, most small shops, local restaurants and markets still aren't set up for it, so make sure you always have cash on you. What language is spoken? The primary language of Sri Lanka is Sinhala, although in the north Tamil is widely spoken. You'll find English spoken by many, particularly as the language of commerce.
The Sun
27-06-2025
- The Sun
Mystery surrounds abandoned Maldives resort left to rot with decaying villas, filthy pools & dust-covered massage tables
AN ABANDONED luxury resort rotting away in the Maldives with derelict villas and dirty pools has become shrouded in mystery. A decaying island within the holiday hotspot - which is usually known for its picturesque sights and tropical landscapes - holds a string of villas which have been left for dead. 8 8 8 Once a promising paradise-to-be, the resort sits on one of the archipelago islands, situated southwest of Sri Lanka in the Indian Ocean. YouTube star Kale Brock revealed the mysterious area in a video posted to the social media site. The Australian said his group spotted the eerie location in the distance while on holiday with a tour guide in the Maldives - and convinced him to take them there. Extraordinary footage showed the group touring half-finished villas, as well as piles of debris and dilapidated bedrooms. Broken toilets stood aside heaps of rubbish at the swanky hotel surrounded by swathes of tropical forest. Unkempt pools overflowing with algae can also be seen alongside generators which haven't been powered in years. Brock told that the island was supposedly owned by a prominent Maldivian politician. And he said that construction on the resort reportedly started over a decade ago. The surfer and YouTuber said: "They were building for two years then for 'political reasons'. "We don't really know, ostensibly maybe they ran out of money." Abandoned EFL stadium left to rot with pitch covered in weeds just five years after hosting final match He explained: "They've literally abandoned the project … There's bathtubs in unopened but deteriorating boxes." Shocking footage also showed unopened spa equipment and massage tables - which were never used to accommodate visitors. A centrepiece pool filled with murky water and dead bits of plants is also seen on the resort. The only bit of life that can be seen is the lush palm trees which tower over the forgotten construction. In one eerie corner of the island, the group stumble across an old Mazda and Nissan — both caked in rust and clearly untouched for years. 8 8 8 They press on to a creepy generator room, lined with bizarre, old machines. Explorer Brock said the scenes reminded him of films like Ghostbusters, Jurassic Park, and Lost. Chilling footage showed the most harrowing part of the island, and its supposed crown jewels. Luxury overwater bungalows that were meant to rake in $5,000 a night sit completely empty, now just crumbling skeletons of wood and steel. Brock is also seen strolling along a half-destroyed concrete platform where a fancy boardwalk should have been if the project was finished. Peering out at the sea, Brock said: 'World-class lives one kilometre away.' 8 8
