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In Korea, drinking is a national sport

In Korea, drinking is a national sport

Drinking is a sport in Korea. It might even be their national sport, despite what Wikipedia will tell you. I saw way more Koreans drinking than I ever saw practising taekwondo, so from where I'm sitting, the maths checks out.
Much like any other competitive sport, this one, too, comes with a complex set of rules that can be confusing to the casual observer. There are fouls, faux pas, and formalities that must be followed lest you inadvertently cause offence. Here's some guidance so you can kick off on the right foot (before you inevitably trip over it later).
The first rule is that you should never pour your own drink. To do so would be considered impolite for reasons that are rooted in old customs. Just know that a Korean will never let your drink get empty and you, too, should return them this favour.
While the eldest person at the table should get the honour of pouring the first drink, following this it should be the youngest who pours for their elders as a sign of respect. This might seem straightforward until you're surrounded by ageless Koreans who could be anywhere from 20 to 45, which means you'll have to make many educated guesses on this one.
Another important part of drinking etiquette is to pour and receive drinks with both hands. This was one of the more difficult things to master as my hands are large and uncoordinated – trying to hold a soju glass with two of them was a bit like milking the world's smallest cow.
The best way to do this is by pouring or accepting the drink with your right hand and holding your wrist with your left hand. If you want to go even deeper than this, you should also turn your head away when you take a sip. It's another sign of respect, but I doubt any Koreans will hold you to this formality.
Something to prepare yourself for in Korea is that when one drinks, one must eat as well. To suggest drinking without the addition of some sort of salty snack would be like suggesting you jump out of a plane without a parachute. This makes it difficult to find venues that cater exclusively to drinking.
A night out in Korea usually involves bouncing between venues where you will eat, drink, and eat some more. Pace yourself on the food, it's not expected that you finish everything. In fact, most Koreans leave a not insignificant amount of it on their tables behind them. This goes against all my Catholic guilt, but you should know that Korea has an ingenious way of dealing with food waste which involves converting it into fuel, fertiliser, and farm feed, so don't feel too bad about leaving that last piece of pajeon.
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