The luxury hotel blazing a trail to a new, smarter Costa del Sol
I'm here to see the quieter side of the Costa del Sol, an area that has smartened up, ditching the package-holiday image for glamour. This part is neither glitzy and showy nor cheap and cheerful, but reminds me of a time before I'd ever heard the word overtourism. And it is this lesser-known corner of the Costa del Sol that the luxury hotel group Fairmont has chosen for its new flagship resort in Spain.
I am technically not in the province of Malaga, the heart of the Costa del Sol, but Cadiz, on the border of the less visited Costa de la Luz ('Coast of the Light'). And it is the light that strikes me as I step into the hotel's grand lobby with its double-height ceiling and panoramic windows showcasing some quite spectacular views of the Mediterranean. The light, and the silence.
After checking in, I stroll down to the hotel's soon-to-open beach club, and find myself all but alone, bar a couple of dog walkers spotting dolphins and soaking up the views.Speaking of views, I am staying in a gloriously sun-drenched Deluxe Sea View room. At 52 sq m (excluding the private terrace), it is the size of most suites but is the smallest room category at Fairmont La Hacienda. There's a tub and a rainfall shower with lush bath amenities by Le Labo, a seating area, a second outdoor seating area and a huge bed. Throughout the hotel, matt Campaspero limestone floors, walls and bathrooms, combined with natural materials such as wood, jute, linen and rattan, create a dreamlike, almost airbrushed vibe.
Most of the 153 rooms overlook the neighbouring La Hacienda Links golf resort, the hotel's three swimming pools and the sea. The higher up you get, the better the panorama, which stretches all the way to Morocco on a clear day. There are also 47 villas, some of which can be broken down into individual suites, with three to nine bedrooms, alongside private pools, kitchens, dining areas, an abundance of outdoor space and the sound of the rolling waves.
'People are excited about the new hotel because there's nothing like this around here,' says María Gómez Martos, a host at Fairmont La Hacienda's superb Dalmar restaurant (more on this later), a local from the area. 'There's nothing else this beautiful.'
For lunch I feast on oysters and perfectly tender grilled octopus at the poolside Umbra restaurant as the sunlight peeps through the bamboo roof and dances on the tables (mains from £21). That afternoon, I head to the gym, a light-filled space with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the sea. Afterwards a therapist from the spa deftly works on my muscles as I snore on a plush padded massage table.
The next day, I want to see more of the local area. I travel 45 minutes inland to Alcala de los Gazules, a white hilltop village with more than two centuries of history. I meet up with Juan Pedro Romero, a historian who shows me a secret camomile-scented garden in the ruins of a 16th-century monastery and the 12th-century fortress that sits atop the city (Alcala, with its 5,000 inhabitants, was granted city status in 1876). We visit Encarna Fernández Luna at the 200-year-old bakery Horno de Luna, which has been run by five generations of matriarchs (@hornodeluna). She tells me that her recipe for aniseed-flavoured mollete flatbread originated with the Moors and was handed down by her great-grandmother. Later, I devour plates of tapas and assorted grilled meats at El Campanero (mains from £13; @restaurante_campanero).While other parts of Spain have been grappling with headline-grabbing overtourism protests, Romero insists that you won't find any 'tourists go home' graffiti in Alcala. 'People here want to show off their city,' he says. 'I love my home town and it's an honour when people come here so I can share it with them.'
Ellie McDonald, a young woman from the Scottish Highlands who moved to Alcala last year and runs a relocation and translation service for people moving to Spain, agrees. 'I have the best time here and everyone is so friendly,' she says. 'I've lived all over Spain, but this village is my home.'
• Discover our full guide to Spain
Later, I meet up with Thomas Shield, a Londoner based in Florida-esque Sotogrande, with its mansions, palm trees, golf, polo and yacht clubs. Shield's company, The Jolly Mile, rents and sells Moke cars (thejollymile.com). He also organises experiences for Fairmont La Hacienda's guests, as I discover when he whizzes me up to another white village, the breathtakingly beautiful Castellar de la Frontera, in an open-top electric Moke.He says Sotogrande is less ostentatious than other spots on the Costa. 'It used to be all golfers and retired people, but the pandemic changed that. Lots of young professionals left the big cities and are still here,' he says. 'I'm still a Londoner but can't see myself living anywhere else.'
Back at Fairmont La Hacienda, I'm ready for dinner. Dalmar by Benito Gómez, a Catalan of Andalusian descent whose Bardal restaurant in Ronda has been awarded two Michelin stars, is an upmarket affair with zero stuffiness. His dishes are playful and flavour-packed; like the red tuna from the Strait of Gibraltar punched up with wasabi from Montseny outside Barcelona, or local mushrooms cooked in rich Catalan fricando meat stew (mains from £25).
• Best hotels on the Costa Brava
Leaving Fairmont La Hacienda, I have not set foot in a golf buggy (other than the one the attentive, ever-present hotel staff use to ferry guests around the resort). Nor have I seen any fake tan or mega-yachts. If you're looking to unwind in beautiful natural surroundings, eat well, connect with the local culture and, yes, maybe play some golf, this new side of the Costa de Sol might surprise you.
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Isabelle Kliger was a guest of Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol, which has B&B doubles from £500 in July (fairmont.com). Fly to Gibraltar
A Spanish classic reimagined, Kimpton Los Monteros Marbella marks the revival of one of the Costa del Sol's most distinguished hotels. First opened in 1962, Los Monteros was a luxury trailblazer, the first hotel in Spain to receive a Michelin star, for its El Corzo restaurant. It has now been fully renovated, blending a contemporary design with the historic grandeur of the building. Top-notch dining and wellness experiences include a Dolce & Gabbana beach club and Jara restaurant by the chef José Carlos García, all within an exclusive Marbella enclave. Many of the resort's 195 elegant rooms and suites have private terraces and sea views, while the Mediterranean is 500m away.Details Room-only doubles from £285 (kimptonlosmonterosmarbella.com). Fly to Malaga
Looking to sleep better, eat better or get a handle on those love handles? ZEM Wellness Clinic Altea's year-round seven or 14-day programmes focusing on issues such as weight loss or longevity are just the tonic. But it's not all lasers and white coats. Guests staying in one of the 95 rooms and suites get to eat a healthy, delicious Mediterranean diet and enjoy the 40,000 sq m of facilities surrounded by lush gardens, the mountains and the sea. Whatever you do, just don't confuse it with Spain's other well-known wellness destination — SHA — which is also in the idyllic seaside town of Altea, just north of Alicante. Details Seven nights' full board from £11,570pp in May (zemaltea.com). Fly to Alicante
• More great hotels in southern Spain
Barcelona's hottest opening of the year has no fewer than six eating and drinking venues — including Lora, an all-day dining grill, L'Anxova Divina tapas bar and Cosmico, a waterfront rooftop pool bar and club opening this summer — as well as three swimming pools, a spa, an 800 sq m ballroom and 471 rooms and suites. While it's a bit of a trek from central Barcelona, the exuberant energy, colourful design and proximity to the beach and the Port Forum festival area (which hosts the summer music festival Primavera Sound) are setting SLS up as the place to see and be seen this summer. Details Room-only doubles from £180 (slshotels.com). Fly to Barcelona
Deep in Seville's ancient Jewish quarter, a 15th-century palace has been converted into a 14-room luxury boutique hotel. The painstaking restoration uncovered plenty of artefacts — some dating back to Roman times — all preserved within the medieval walls. Expect Venetian doors, 17th-century Mudejar-style ceramic tiles and a private art collection worthy of a museum, alongside a leafy garden for alfresco breakfasts, a quiet rooftop and a picturesque plunge pool. Every room is different in this building that feels more like a stately home than a hotel. Details B&B doubles from £275 (hotelcasalimonero.com). Fly to Seville
The trendy Brach hotel brand has expanded out of Paris, opening its first international outpost in Madrid. And not just anywhere in Madrid. It's on Gran Via, the Spanish capital's main thoroughfare, so you won't find a more central location than this. Brach's French identity is ever present in this chic, 57-room boutique property, which includes a patisserie and flamboyant interiors by the designer Philippe Starck. But Brach is Spanish too, from the bellota ham and padron peppers served in the Mediterranean restaurant to the eye-popping views of Madrid's rooftops from the sun-drenched terrace. Details Room-only doubles from £410 (brachmadrid.com). Fly to Madrid
In July OKU Andalusia will open in a secluded spot on Spain's southern shore, between Sotogrande and San Roque, and close to the Los Alcornocales nature reserve. Marking the debut of OKU Hotels' family-friendly concept, this property is packed with fun details for the littlest travellers, from special wellness and dining experiences to a spectacular kids' club complete with an adventure playground, a wet splash zone, shallow pool and more. Meanwhile, OKU's signature bohemian flair is on display in the 255 guest rooms, the private four-bedroom villa, the beach club and its poolside DJ sessions. Details B&B doubles from £210 (okuhotels.com). Fly to Malaga
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The Med ‘Isle of Beauty' where a week costs under £500 this summer
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Daily Mail
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It's Beni-dormant! Gleeful Spanish locals rejoice after seeing drop in Costa del Sol holidaymakers after years of anti-tourism protests - as pictures show half-empty restaurants
It's Beni-dormant! Gleeful Spanish locals rejoice after seeing drop in Costa del Sol holidaymakers after years of anti-tourism protests - as pictures show half-empty restaurants Gleeful Spanish locals are rejoicing after seeing a drop in the number of Costa Del Sol holidaymakers following years of angry anti-tourism demonstrations. The holiday hotspot has recorded its first decline in visitors since the Covid-19 pandemic - with typically bustling destinations seemingly becoming far less-crowded. Images from Benidorm taken in the last few days show empty chairs outside bars and restaurants - rare for this time of year when they are usually rammed with tourists. The pictures follow mass protests across Spain where thousands have claimed excessive tourism is forcing locals out of affordable housing, raising the cost of living and making the city centres unusable. Majorca has also seen a sharp decline in tourist numbers, with officials claiming that a relentless campaign of anti-tourist protests is 'scaring away visitors' as locals say some resorts are now 'completely dead'. In Costa del Sol, the holiday rental sector saw a drop of 2.2% in tourist numbers during the first half of the year - a trend that has accelerated since March, when numbers hit a low of 57%, according to local paper Sur In English. While the downturn has sparked concern among some local businesses, others see it as a welcome break after years of over tourism and have taken to social media to share their relief. One person wrote: 'The news is painted as bad but the reality is that it's good. Tourism is fine but the tourist mass coming to Malaga was more than the city could handle. I'd rather take care of 10 tourists well than 100 bad.' Gleeful Spanish locals are rejoicing after seeing a drop in the number of Costa Del Sol holidaymakers following years of angry anti-tourism demonstrations. Pictured: An empty bar a few days ago An image taken of the same bar sharply contrasts with scenes in March this year (pictured) when the same terrace was rammed with drinkers Pictured: Benidorm with unusually quiet bar terraces and some space on the local beaches Images from Benidorm show empty chairs outside bars and space on beaches - rare for this time of year when they are usually rammed with tourists In Costa del Sol, the holiday rental sector saw a drop of 2.2% in tourist numbers during the first half of the year - a trend that has accelerated since March, when numbers hit a low of 57%. Pictured: A bar in Benidorm with empty tables While the downturn has sparked concern among local businesses, others see it as a welcome break after years of struggling to cope with overtourism Another added: 'Very good news, let's see if we stop depending on tourism and the business fabric returns to Spain. 'Tourism should be regulated somehow and see if the real estate bubble explodes because of that and people here can buy a house again like it used to be.' A third said: 'It seems good to me, that it goes down, even if it negative impact on commerce (and I feel sorry for those freelancers) but if we settle in that niche we will never be able to improve the rent of the Malagasy, added to that the price of the property would continue to rise. 'We don't want displaced Malagasy people, we want Malagasy people thriving. Tourism is not bad, but Malaga needs to grow according to its situation, and what was happening is that we were above what we could stand. 'Let's see if this helps entrepreneurs to rethink if the only business that thrives in Malaga is the quaternary sector... We want more industry, which can really make Malagasy people increase their capital!!!' Pictured: Locals express their feelings about the decline in tourists It follows mass protests across Spain where thousands have claimed excessive tourism is forcing locals out of affordable housing, raising the cost of living and making the city centres unusable. Pictured: A beach in Benidorm The decline in tourist numbers is thought to be caused by a combination of rising prices, overtourism concerns, and a shift in travel preferences The decline in tourist numbers is thought to be caused by a combination of rising prices, overtourism concerns, and a shift in travel preferences. It comes as a slump in spending in Majorca this summer has been blamed on the wave of anti-tourism protests that have gripped Spain. With British holidaymakers seemingly among foreigners turning their backs on the island, its tourism industry is in panic mode as officials overseeing the nightlife sector and tour companies warn that guests no longer feel 'welcomed'. The restaurant association president, Juanmi Ferrer, gave a stark warning that the messaging of the protests is 'scaring visitors away'. Additionally, Miguel Pérez-Marsá, head of the nightlife association, told Majorca Daily Bulletin: 'The tourists we're interested in are being driven away; they don't feel welcome and are going to other destinations.' Local media reports that the situation has become so dire that some managers have given staff holidays in the middle of July, which is often the height of the summer rush. Costa del Sol isn't the only Spanish holiday hotspot experiencing a drop in visitors this year - Majorca has also seen a sharp decline in tourist numbers. Pictured: Jumping Jacks bar a few days ago This is the same bar pictured last year, before the decline in tourist numbers Pictured: A beach in Benidorm unusually quiet for this time of year This time of year beaches in Benidorm are expected to be rammed with tourists at this time of year but images suggest otherwise Streets are also far quieter than usual in the Spanish municipality Costa del Sol isn't the only Spanish holiday hotspot experiencing a drop in visitors this year - Majorca has also seen a sharp decline in tourist numbers. Spanish officials have admitted that a relentless campaign of anti-tourist protests in Majorca is 'scaring away visitors' - with locals claiming some resorts are now 'completely dead' But it's not just bars, restaurants, and nightlife venues feeling the slump. Tour guides are seeing the same downward trend. Pedro Oliver, president of the College of Tour Guides, said: 'The anti-tourism messages are resonating.' He revealed excursion sales have dropped by 20 per cent this summer, with Valldemossa, Palma and Port Soller among the worst-hit areas as British, German, and Italian tourists have all been put off. 'If you generate negative news, which has repercussions in other countries, tourists opt for other destinations when choosing their holidays,' he said. 'We are sending the message that we don't want tourists and that everything is too crowded.' Excursion operator Proguies Turístics normally offers around 30 excursions per cruise. That number is now down to just 12 to 14. Its president, Biel Rosales, warned: 'Tourismphobia and the idea that tourists are not welcome are hurting us greatly.' He added that high prices and traffic jams are also turning tourists away. Transport bosses are also worried. Rafel Roig, president of the transport federation, said: 'You can't send out these messages because people won't go where they're not wanted.' Coach firms and taxi drivers have both seen a decline in customers. Majorca's beaches, often filled with tourists has seen fewer people than usual Pictured: Empty chairs outside a restaurant in Majorca a few days ago A recent image shows another empty restaurant in Majorca Biel Moragues, from one of the island's taxi associations, said: 'British tourists are the most upset by the protests and have changed their holiday destination.' Locals now say tourism on the island is completely different from years gone by. It comes after anti-tourism activists have wreaked havoc across Spain this summer. Thousands of protestors marched through central Barcelona last month, waving placards and squirting holidaymakers with water guns in the latest expression of anger at perceived overtourism in Spain. Under the slogan 'Enough! Let's put limits on tourism', some 2,800 people - according to police - marched along a waterfront district of Barcelona to demand a new economic model that would reduce the millions of tourists that visit every year. Protesters carried signs reading 'Barcelona is not for sale,' and, 'Tourists go home,' before some used water guns on tourists eating outdoors at restaurants in popular tourist hotspots. Chants of 'Tourists out of our neighbourhood' rang out as some stopped in front of the entrances to hotels. Barcelona's rising cost of housing, up 68 percent in the past decade, is one of the main issues for the movement, along with the effects of tourism on local commerce and working conditions in the city of 1.6 million inhabitants. Anti-riot forces gesture as protestors marched through Barcelona's Las Ramblas alley, on July 6 Video showed protestors gathering in Las Ramblas, a hotspot for holidaymakers Protestors squirted water guns at tourists eating in popular spots in the city Rents rose by 18% in June from a year earlier in tourist cities such as Barcelona and Madrid, according to the property website Idealista. For years, the city has worn anti-tourist graffiti with messages such as 'tourists go home' aimed at visitors some blame for the rising prices and shaping of the economy around tourists. The Barcelona protests came after similar demonstrations in tourist hotspots such as Malaga, Palma de Mallorca and the Canary Islands. The second most visited country after France, Spain received 85 million foreign visitors in 2023, an increase of 18.7 percent from the previous year, according to the National Statistics Institute. The most visited region was Catalonia, whose capital is Barcelona, with 18 million, followed by the Balearic Islands (14.4 million) and the Canary Islands (13.9 million). Furious locals who orchestrated mass anti-tourism protests across the Canary Islands earlier this year issued another warning to British travellers this week as they vowed to target 'main holidaymaker areas' over the summer break. Again, they aired their frustrations that not enough had been done to answer their calls. Tens of thousands of people took to the streets of Tenerife on April 20, with roughly 200,000 protesters thought to have taken part in mass demonstrations across the island archipelago. The protests, organised by various groups including 'Friends of Nature of Tenerife (ATAN)' aimed to discourage foreign holidaymakers while also compelling councils to introduce new legislation aimed at protecting the islands from the effects of an ever-expanding tourism industry.
