10 of the best secret gardens in Europe's major cities

The Guardian

4 days ago

El Capricho, on the outskirts of Madrid, is one of the city's lesser-known parks. It was built in 1784 by the Duke and Duchess of Osuna, and visited by 18th-century artists such as Francisco de Goya. Its 17-hectare gardens were designed by Jean Baptiste Mulot, who also worked on the Petit Trianon gardens at the Palace of Versailles. They are in three sections: Italian, French and English landscape. The park also has a small lake, a labyrinth, a bandstand and a mansion. One fascinating feature is an underground bunker, built in 1937 during the Spanish civil war – there are free guided tours at weekends.Open weekends and public holidays, 9am-9pm, April to September, then 9am-6.30pm, October to March, esmadrid.com
You're never far from a garden in London: 20% of the city is public green space, including about 3,000 parks, and it became the world's first National Park City in 2019. As well as eight royal parks and vast areas of greenery such as Hampstead Heath, the city has numerous hidden havens. One of them is the tiny Onion Garden near Victoria Station and St James's Park. According to the tour guide Jack Chesher, it was a 'derelict concrete corner' until late 2021, when it began to be transformed into the 'hanging gardens of Westminster'. The pocket park now has more than 200 species of plants – including a fair few onions – and displays artworks such as mosaic wall art and sculptures. There is a cafe and events including singing, craft workshops and poetry recitals.Open weekdays 7.30am-5.30pm (until 10pm on Thursdays), weekends 8.30am-4.30pm, theoniongarden.org
This little-known walled garden, found down a dead-end road in the Marais, once belonged to the Hotel de Saint-Agnan. The hotel is now the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaisme (mahJ), and the garden, dedicated to Anne Frank, is open to the public. The central plot dates to the 17th century, and there is a small orchard, vegetable garden, pergola and children's play area. Most moving is the chestnut tree, planted in 2007 from a graft of the tree Anne looked at from her window in Amsterdam and wrote about in her diary. As well as the mahJ, the Pompidou Centre is a short walk away. Open 10am-9pm in summer, paris.fr
Hidden behind the south wall of the Palazzo Brera in the centre of Milan is an ancient medicinal garden. Humiliati priests grew plants and meditated here in the 14th century, followed by the Jesuits. In 1775, Empress Maria Theresa of Austria ordered it be turned into a botanical garden, and it has been managed by the University of Milan since 1935. The 5,000sq m garden still has its original layout: two oval ponds; an arboretum containing two centuries-old Ginkgo biloba trees and other exotic specimens; and themed flowerbeds (medicinal, Mediterranean, plants used for dyeing, textiles, paper …) Open 10am-6pm, Monday to Saturday, until 31 October, then 9.30am-4.30pm, until 31 March, ortibotanici.unimi.it
Right in the middle of Stockholm, off the main shopping street of Drottninggatan, is a hidden courtyard garden. In the 18th century, it was the garden of the farm where the architect Carl Hårleman lived – two of the pear trees are thought to date from this period. Another architect, Willhelm Klemming, bought the property in 1901, renovated the garden and built the Centralbadets in 1904 – still an affordable day spa today. The lush little garden has a pond with a water sculpture, flowerbeds, winding paths and shady places to sit. There are three adjacent restaurants, all with outdoor tables.Closed at night, parker.stockholm
Hidden between Christiansborg Palace and the Royal Library in a historic part of central Copenhagen is a tranquil public garden. The garden was built in 1920 on top of Tøjhushavnen, an old naval port. Reminders of this maritime past include a pond in the middle of the garden, with an eight-metre-high column that shoots a spout of water every hour on the hour, and an old mooring ring at one end. There is also a statue of the Danish philosopher Søren Kierkegaard, whose manuscripts are in the library's collection and occasionally go on display. There are benches under the trees to sit quietly with your own book.Open 6am-10pm year-round, visitcopenhagen.com
Tucked away in the palace district, the Károlyi-kert is thought to be Budapest's oldest garden, and contains Hungary's oldest mulberry tree. It was once the private garden of the Károlyi Palace, and has been a public park since 1932 (don't be deterred by the forbidding-looking iron railings). It is a mix of styles: geometric central flowerbeds and fountain, and English-style paths and plant arrangements. There is a children's playground and a statue of a beloved late resident: Károly, a Belgian giant rabbit. The wine bar and restaurant Csendes Társ is next to the park and has outdoor tables right outside the gate.Open 8am-9pm in summer, welovebudapest.com
The landscaped garden on top of the University of Warsaw's library is one of the biggest roof gardens in Europe, at more than a hectare (2.5 acres). It opened in 2002 and remains a little-known escape from the busy Powiśle district. A gentle slope leads to the lower garden, which has a duck pond and a series of granite sculptures. The upper garden is divided into four colourful sections: gold, silver, red and green. The areas are connected by paths, bridges and pergolas, and a cascading water feature joins the upper and lower parts. The garden has panoramic views of the Warsaw skyline.Upper garden open from April to October, lower garden open year-round, en.uw.edu.pl
Although it is close to sights such as Charles Bridge and Lesser Town Square, this terraced garden on Petřín hill is hard to find. Visitors who seek it out are rewarded with baroque beauty. The Italianate garden was created around 1720 on the site of Vrtbovský Palace's former vineyards. Three terraced platforms, connected by steps, are full of hornbeams, yews, and tens of thousands of flowers and shrubs. The gardens are decorated with statues, vases and paintings, and a ceremonial lighting event is held twice a year. From the pavilion on the top terrace, there are views of the castle, cathedral and old and new towns.£5 adults/£4 children/£15 families, open 10am-7pm, April to October, prague.eu
The National Garden in central Athens is a well-known attraction, but the city also has a lesser-known botanic garden, a 20-minute bus ride away. Most of this vast, 186-hectare (460-acre) green space is left as a natural habitat, but 11% (about 20 hectares) is cultivated and contains more than 2,500 plant species. Visitors can walk through the arboretum, with trees from most continents; the ornamental plants section, with 15 flowerbeds and 25 ponds; the historic plants sections, with species recorded by ancient Greeks; and many more – medicinal and aromatic plants, plants of economic importance, hothouse plants, rare plants … There is also a small cafe.Open weekdays 8am-2pm, weekends and holidays 10am-3pm, closed in August, diomedes-bg.uoa.gr