To Eat Like a Local in Tokyo, Look for B-kyū Gurume Restaurants
We then head west to Tomigaya, a residential neighborhood near Shibuya and its scramble crossing. The streets have an appealing go-slow vibe with single-product shops and cafés breaking up a proliferation of hair salons. A huddle of people signals that we have found our next stop: Camelback, a micro coffee shop created by a latte artist and sushi chef. Everyone has come for the coffee and two-bite egg sando: a slice of Kyoto-style sweet rolled omelette (more usually seen atop nigiri sushi) wrapped in brioche. 'Cheap coffee and an egg sando from the konbini has become a staple on social media, so it makes sense that the elevated version—barista lattes and sushi-grade egg on artisanal bread—would find a place in fashionable Tomigaya,' says MacDuckston. Call it contemporary B-kyū.
Shibuya Crossing
Graydon Herriott
Katsu curry at Pannya
Graydon Herriott
Two stops further along the metro line we alight in Shimokitazawa, walking right into the annual curry festival, where we have a katsu curry at Pannya Cafe Curry, a tiny, homespun spot. A huge portion of pork cutlet in squid-ink breadcrumbs and a flavoursome sauce laced with soy and dashi is just over $10 USD. Unlike the 19th-century curry introduced by the British on which it is based, the Japanese kind is made from a roux, with milder spices and deep umami flavors.
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