Return of the beef brisket king: Pudu's iconic beef noodles are back at Yoong Kee Noodle
Pudu's Yung Kee, which built a following among KL's gourmands for serving arguably the city's best HK-style beef noodles, has returned after closing abruptly in the second half of last year.
Though the hiatus lasted only eight months, it was enough time for a different beef noodle joint to open in its original location at Jalan Kancil.
Online reception to that newcomer was mixed, suggesting a clear sense of disappointment among diners who came expecting Yung Kee, only to be met with something very different.
In the second week of May, the business was reborn as Yoong Kee, now located along Jalan Changkat Thambi Dollah in the shadow of LaLaport BBCC.
The slight change in spelling is a common practice, with the Chinese name remaining the same.
A spread consisting of honeycomb tripe, inside skirt, US sirloin, tendon and short rib (clockwise from left). — Picture by Ethan Lau
Founder Albert Lai explained that he had gone to Ipoh for several months to consult for a large restaurant group expanding into KL, and has now returned to the city to reopen Yoong Kee.
He adds that this is the only beef noodle restaurant he's currently attached to, with no other locations.
When Lai started just over a decade ago as a stall in the now-closed Restaurant Kwai Hup, not every part of the cow was available daily.
After moving into his own restaurant, that changed and the full range eventually became available every day.
Thankfully, that practice has continued here.
These days, all the usual favourites are on hand: short rib (RM20), tendon (RM15), honeycomb tripe (RM25), along with the more robust, luxurious cuts that have become Lai's calling card, US sirloin (RM45) and inside skirt (RM45), the English name for the sumptuous pang sar lam.
Honeycomb tripe has a delightfully spongy texture. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Naturally, those who visited the old Yung Kee will remember the phenomenally beefy broth.
This, above all, was what set it apart, along with the mastery of the many different cuts used.
That same broth is back.
It is simply exceptional, intense and savoury with real depth, yet restrained and balanced. Enough said.
But of the many factors that separate Yoong Kee from the rest of the beef noodle scene, the next most obvious is the unique texture achieved with each part.
The short rib is the leanest and firmest cut, which usually means it can get dry and stringy.
Here, however, it is soft and separates into juicy shreds while still holding its shape.
The omasum, a muscle from the stomach, with a very unique texture. — Picture by Ethan Lau
The tendons have been braised into slippery, tender submission, though each strand offers one last feeble snap of resistance before yielding to the mouth.
Meanwhile, the honeycomb tripe is delightful, with its spongy, creamy texture.
The best part of ordering by cut is tasting how each one changes the broth it's served with, with effects ranging from subtle to striking.
The short rib is lean but deeply beefy, and that intensity is echoed in its broth. Tendon and honeycomb tripe bring a gentle sweetness, softening its edge.
But it's with the richer cuts like sirloin and inside skirt that the broth takes on a fuller, more indulgent flavour that truly stands out.
The paper-thin slices of fatty sirloin are almost transparent like charcuterie, soft and ultra-silky in the mouth, with a lush sweetness that seeps into the broth.
The spectacular 'pang sar lam' which is the best part in my book. — Picture by Ethan Lau
The inside skirt, or pang sar lam, is braised to a similarly soft texture like the short rib, but the layer of connective tissue and knuckle of unrendered fat on top gives it a mouth feel that is nothing short of heavenly, creamy and supple beyond belief.
The broth in that bowl is the best of both worlds, sweet and rich from the fat, with just enough beefiness from the lean.
Conversely, if you're after something lean, clean yet still flavourful, the tongue (RM40) and outside skirt (RM30) are where it's at.
Thinly sliced, the tongue is springy in the mouth and offers the cleanest broth experience, while the outside skirt is essentially the inside skirt without any fat, perfect for those who want a beefy flavour without the richness.
Don't skip the only item on the menu that comes without soup: omasum (RM25), rubbery strips of stomach muscle that crunch satisfyingly in the mouth, tossed in seasoned soy sauce and dressed with delicately julienned spring onion and ginger.
Look for the black sign next to the Healthland massage parlour. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Restoran Mee 庸记港式面铺 (Yoong Kee Noodle)
43, Jalan Changkat Thambi Dollah
Pudu, Kuala Lumpur
Open daily, 8am to 5.30pm
Tel: 012-983 8454
Facebook: Yung Kee Beef Noodle
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
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