Forget the Milan you know, the one dominated by the fashion hordes and global business set in gleaming towers. The Milan to love is the one you haven't met—until now.
One of the most dramatically sited urban properties in Europe, the Portrait Milano Hotel inhabits a massive 16th century seminary in the posh Brera neighborhood. Its cloistered interior courtyard brims with stylish bistro seating scattered between ionic columns; it's also home to one of the city's best concept stores, Antonia.
Upstairs, the 73 rooms' decor takes cues from the hotel's fashion royalty owners—the Ferragamo family—by leaning on Milanese postwar glamour rather than old-school palazzo opulence. And then there's the hotel pool hidden deep underground. It's designed like an inviting Roman bathhouse with marble, travertine and even more of those dramatic columns. Rooms from $1,250
Source: Portrait Milano
Bulgari Hotel Milano
Tucked down a private road in the heart of the city center, Bulgari's first hotel is now a 20-year-old fixture of Milan's A-list. Jet-setting guests sip espresso macchiatos on the snaking sofas that lead to Il Ristorante Niko Romito, where local fashionistas and bankers power-lunch on zingy red prawn linguine.
Tasteful and timeless, the rooms pay tribute to the Bulgari brand with framed photos of the fashion house's jewelry. (Angle for one that looks out over the lush foliage of Brera's botanical garden next door.)
It's the intuitive and detailed service, however, that makes the hotel stand out from the pack. Upon arriving at a nearby restaurant booked by the Bulgari's front desk, my server offered me a welcome glass of prosecco courtesy of the concierge—a small but thoughtful gesture that explains why loyal visitors keep coming back here year after year. Rooms from $1,700
Source: Bulgari Hotels
The Boutique Stay
Milan is one of the best hotel cities in the world. The opulent Mandarin Oriental Milan is highly coveted for its masterful culinary offering; the sumptuous, apartment-style suites at the Rocco Forte House are ideal for those seeking complete privacy; and the Four Seasons Hotel Milano, set in an old convent, has just reestablished itself with beautifully renovated rooms (shown here). The problem, however, is that you'll be lucky to find a room under $1,500 at any of them.
Your best bet for more practical pricing is Casa Brivio in Ticinese. It's a hotel that gets right to the point: no lobby to lounge in or elaborate breakfast, just simple rooms harking back to the city's mid-mod 1970s. If the architectural chairs and laminated armoires catch your eye, they're by the storied Italian furniture brand Cassina. Rooms from $300
Source: Four Seasons
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