High-grade, single-ranch wagyu

The Star

3 days ago

DISTINGUISHING itself among the exalted ranks of Japanese premium beef is a variety with exceptional tenderness and richer umami flavours – Shimo­mu­ragyu.
The award-winning beef derives from purebred cattle raised only on one ranch in Aichi Prefecture and has distinct marbling that results in a luscious, melt-in-the-mouth texture.
Savouring it can be a trans­cendent experience, as gourmands in Penang have discovered after the opening of Yaki­niku Tenshin in Gurney Paragon Mall.
The restaurant – which one enters via a photogenic tunnel of torii gates – serves A5 (the highest grade) Shimomu­ragyu.
The Shimomuragyu and caviar is a decadent pairing.
Shimomuragyu has won the prestigious Aichi Prefecture Wagyu Competition for 10 consecutive years, among many other accolades.
Diners can order unlimited portions for a fixed price.
Most cuts are meant to be grilled over charcoal in sunken pits built into tables.
Besides imparting pleasant smokiness, this also renders the beef's fine intramuscular fat well, creating delicate buttery notes without being overly greasy.
Yakiniku Tenshin director Ng Wei Shen said the ethical husbandry practices employed at the source, Shimomura Farm, set this beef apart from other premium varieties.
The cattle are fed a specialised, high-energy diet for over 600 days in a low-stress environment.
This results in much higher levels of glutamic acid, the compound behind umami notes.
The richly marbled cuts of Shimomuragyu have subtle nuances in flavour and texture.
'Coupled with our meticulous preparation, it results in an exquisite culinary experience for discerning palates,' Ng said.
The restaurant offers two buffet options – the mid-range Ten and the premium-tier Shin, which offer over 100 and 140 items respectively.
Ten's highlights include the Yakiniku Kiku and Yakiniku Takumi platters with several cuts of the Shimomuragyu alongside vegetables or seafood.
'We slice the beef at just the right thickness for the best mouth­feel.
'This allows its inherent qualities to shine,' Ng said, adding that cuts are also labelled for identification.
Exploring their subtle nuances can be a tasty adventure, much like delving into the complexities of wines, spirits or cheeses.
The highly marbled short plate and short ribs have luscious buttery qualities, in contrast to the beefier, more robust D rump and shoulder clod.
Wagyu Don, one of the cooked items available on the Shin menu.
The chuck roll strikes a nice balance between fat and lean meat, while the gooseneck round and top round are leaner with milder taste.
The beef also features in dishes like Wagyu Croissant, Wagyu Katsu, Wagyu Tartare, Wagyu Sukiyaki, Wagyu Sando, Wagyu Maki, Wagyu and Engawa Don, Wagyu Nabe and Hamburg Steak on the Ten menu.
The Shin buffet – which has everything from the Ten menu – will appeal to gourmands seeking the ultimate indulgence.
Besides the King Crab Platter, it also offers Yaki­niku Matsu or Yakiniku Ume platters with more luxurious cuts of Shimomuragyu alongside caviar or sea urchin.
The Premium Wagyu Sanshi­omori features thick slices while the Premium Wagyu Asparagus has egg yolk for added richness.
Other lavish creations like Wagyu Foie Gras Sushi, Uni Wagyu Nigiri, Wagyu Puff, Uni Gyu Tartare, Uni Oyster, Wagyu Tataki and Uni Inaniwa Don ensure it is a feast to be remembered.
Buffet options come with a free flow of drinks and ice cream. Prices for lunch, dinner, weekday and weekend sessions differ.
The Ten starts from RM298+ for adults and RM188+ for children (145cm in height or less) and seniors (aged 60 and above).
The Shin starts from RM478+ for adults and RM338+ for children and seniors. Each session lasts two hours.
Yakiniku Tenshin is part of a trio of restaurants by the same company and located side-by-side on Level 2 of the mall's atrium.
Its sister outlet, Wagyu and Rice, offers the Shimomuragyu in accessible donburi and udon meals while Tsukiji serves sushi made with air-flown seafood.
'We envisioned it as a Japa­nese dining destination where customers can enjoy the full spectrum of Japanese cuisine,' Ng said.
YAKINIKU TENSHIN, Level 2, Gurney Paragon Mall, 163D Gurney Drive, George Town, Penang.
(Tel: [phone]). Business hours: 11am to 3pm and 6pm to 10pm. Pork-free.
This is the writer's personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.