A Venerated Italian Brand's Stunning New Sailing Watch Revives Classic Mechanical Magic

Yahoo

01-07-2025

Panerai's latest Luminor references honor the brand's ongoing support of the America's Cup-contending Luna Rossa team.
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Sports cars. Motorcycles. Leather shoes. These are the types of high-end products we typically associate with Italy.
But when it comes to luxury goods, the boot-shaped nation is hardly limited to those categories. Just look at Panerai.
Founded by Giovanni Panerai in Florence, Italy in 1860, the brand really blossomed early the following century, when it began supplying technical equipment and precision instruments to the Italian Navy — including gun sights illuminated by Radiomir.
From 1935 to 1970, the brand teamed up with Rolex to produce high-performance dive watches for the Navy, eventually replacing Radiomir with the safer, tritium-powered Luminor.
And while Panerai is now headquartered in Geneva (where else?), its watches still boast a unique Italian flair.
The Luminor collection leads the line for Panerai, and the latest reference upholds that proud tradition in exemplary fashion.
The latest example? The glorious new Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa Titanio, one of two new Luminor references celebrating Panerai's continuing sponsorship of the Luna Rossa team.
These watches are particularly special because the 38th America's Cup challenge will take place in Naples, bringing sailing's most prestigious competition to Italy for the first time.
Currently offering dozens of references, the Luminor collection leads the line for Panerai, and the latest references uphold that proud tradition in exemplary fashion.
Classic elements include the signature crown-protecting device with lever, luminous dial, rhodium small seconds display and Super-LumiNova X1 on markers and hands, making the watch easy to read in low light, a nod to the brand's naval background.
Limited to 150 examples, the Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa Titanio features a 44mm case made of titanium, making it comparable to steel in strength but 44 percent lighter, plus resistant to corrosion and wear and generally optimized for long-time usage.
Designed to meet strict mechanical standards, the watch is powered by the brand's first automatic movement with chronograph functions, the P.9100 caliber, visible through the sapphire crystal open case back.
A key feature is the flyback chronograph, with tachymeter scale for nautical use, enabling the chronograph hands to reset to zero and restart instantly with one button press.
This movement also boasts a 72-hour power reserve and a vertical clutch and column wheel mechanism, with chronograph minutes displayed by a central hand that jumps forward every 60 seconds.
The sandwich dial is an understated grey matt-tone accented with red details and the Luna Rossa team decal. The symmetrically positioned subdials are easy to read, and the red chronograph hands offer their own distinctive pop.
The PAM01654 comes on a black and grey bi-material strap featuring the Luna Rossa stripe. An additional black rubber strap comes with the watch as well.
For those seeking similar vibes at a more accessible price point, Panerai has simultaneously introduced a simplified sibling, the Luminor Tre Giorni Luna Rossa (PAM01653).
While it retains many of the trademark Luminor and Luna Rossa touches, one primary difference is the case. Also measuring 44mm, it is made of stainless steel, remelted for an impressive polished finish and increased corrosion resistance.
Powering this option is the P.6000 caliber, a hand-wound movement with a three-day power reserve.
Measuring 15½ lignes in diameter, it features a balance wheel that oscillates at 21,600 vibrations per hour. Adding to the precision is a traversing balance bridge that securely positions the oscillator.
The P.6000 offers a hacking (aka stop-second) function. It pauses the balance wheel and seconds hand when the winding crown is pulled out, which enables precise time adjustments.
Limited to 150 examples, the Panerai Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa Titanio (PAM01654) is available now for $16,400.
The Panerai Luminor Tre Giorni Luna Rossa (PAM01653), meanwhile, costs $6,900.
$16,400 at Panerai
Now managing editor, Steve has served in a variety of roles with GP since 2019. Having previously written and edited for such publications as Men's Health, Men's Journal, Esquire and ESPN, he enjoys covering a range of topics — but mostly those pertaining to cycling, snow sports, pocket knives and motos — and dreams of a utopian world in which everyone's bike seat is at the proper height.