How to curate your Himalayan pantry
2
In Eastern Himalayan kitchens — from Kalimpong to Yunnan's borderlands — a quiet condiment revival is brewing. Regional spices and ferments are stepping out of tradition and into urban pop-ups, indie menus, and homegrown brands across India.
Chefs Ishita Rai Dewan and Katherine Lim spotlight rare, complex ingredients now reimagined for the modern plate.
Kalimpong cheese
A semi-hard cow's milk cheese from Kalimpong, revived by artisans, offers tangy, creamy, Gouda-like notes. Traditionally in platters or kewa datshi, it now melts into gratins, risottos & pairs with Dalle chutney.
Chef's tip: Use at room temperature, melt into dishes, or shave over salads.
Small-batch versions offer deeper, evolving flavours.
Gundruk
These sun-dried, fermented greens from Nepal, Sikkim, and Darjeeling bring sharp, sour, earthy umami. These are traditionally used in soups, stews, pickles. Modern chefs are now using them to brighten tacos, grain bowls, and stir-fries.
Chef's tip: Blanch, pack, and ferment in warmth. Once sour, dry and grind like spice, or rehydrate for a tangy salsa for tacos.
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Dalle Chillies
Fiery chillies from Sikkim, Darjeeling, Kalimpong, and Nepal bring fruity heat (100K–350K Scoville). Known for their use in pickles, chutneys, and bamboo shoot dishes, they now find their way into sauces and oils.
(Removed Bhutan as per fact-check.)
Chef's tip:
Pair with vinegar or ferment. Blend with Gundruk for salsa or with bamboo shoots for bold, smoky pickles.
Churpi (soft cheese)
This is a soft cheese from Nepal and Sikkim, made from fermented buttermilk, with sour, salted, ricotta-like chew.
Traditionally used in curries, soups, momo fillings; now it is also being used in dips or wraps with greens.
Chef's tip: Best in warm dishes. Also mash into chutneys, stir into saag,
or sauté for parathas to get a kick of cheesy umami.
Kalimpong cheese
A semi-hard cow's milk cheese from Kalimpong, revived by artisans, offers tangy, creamy, Gouda-like notes. Traditionally in platters or kewa datshi, it now melts into gratins, risottos & pairs with Dalle chutney.
Chef's tip: Use at room temperature, melt into dishes, or shave over salads. Small-batch versions offer deeper, evolving flavours.
Black rice & sago
These two ingredients pair perfectly in this dessert (above) which found its way to Yunnan all the way from Persia. Featuring black rice, sago, coconut & condensed milk, fruits & ice cream, it's best enjoyed chilled after a spicy meal.
Chef's tip: Layer for texture, or pair with citrus granita to cut richness of the rice.
Timur (Timbur)
Himalayan Sichuan peppercorns — citrusy, floral, and numbing — from Nepal, Kalimpong, Sikkim, and Darjeeling, made from Zanthoxylum husks. Traditionally used in soups, chutneys, and grilled meats, they now spice up rubs, seafood, and even ice cream.
Chef's tip:
Toast and crush for spice blends; sprinkle over fried mushrooms or sauces.
Some ingredients are like ghosts of the monsoon – they only appear for a short time, and they change the whole game
– Chef Ishita Rai Dewan
The tofu that is popularly available is very hard in texture. Real tofu is soft but has a strong flavour
– Chef Katherine Lim
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