The best of Portugal? It's located north of Lisbon.
Catastrophe avoided!
I'm happy to report that this was the most harrowing moment I faced on a trip to northern Portugal last month. Full disclosure: I fell in love with this region a dozen years ago when I visited for vacation. So when TAP Air
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At least that was the pitch I used to convince my editor that this was a good idea. I also wanted to spend more time outside of Porto to visit smaller cities I had missed on my last trip.
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First things first: Porto. When I was last here, the city had yet to be scrubbed clean of its industrial leanings. I enjoyed the raw energy and edge. It's now more visitor-friendly, but that comes at a cost. I don't recall the São Bento train station having more sightseers than rail passengers, and I don't remember standing in a sinuous line and paying 10 euros ($11) to go into
São Bento train station in Porto sees more tourists than train passengers annually.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
The number of tourists in Porto has yet to reach the same soaring levels as Lisbon, but it is growing significantly. According to the National Statistics Institute, the region saw 7 million visitors in 2024. That's up from 3.7 million in 2019.
This is where the obligatory 'But there's a reason why more tourists are flocking to Porto' sentence should go. Usually, I wouldn't write something so trite, but I'm going to do it anyway. Porto indeed has a lot to see, a lot to hear, and, most importantly, a lot to eat and drink. I had an incredible lunch of traditional Portuguese cuisine at
At
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While Porto has become a major tourist draw, you can still find neighborhoods that time forgot.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
Perhaps my favorite culinary find (bear with me if you've heard this before) is alheira, a sausage that was developed during the 16th century. At the time, the Jewish community in Porto faced pressure to convert to Christianity. To practice their beliefs without fear of questioning from zealots, they created tasty sausages, made from bread, kosher meats, and olive oil. They looked like pork, and their adversaries were fooled. They're so good that they're now a mainstay in Portuguese cuisine. I found my favorites at
St. Lawrence Church in Porto looks barren on the outside, but inside the church, the ceilings and columns are coated with gold, and the baroque altars are full of wooden saints.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
Speaking of cuisine, let's resume the octopus-laden cooking class in Lamego, where our story began. The tiered vineyards of the Douro Valley dominate northern Portugal. Not only is the region boozy, it's also beautiful. I had my heart set on staying in one of the
Much to the chagrin of others in my class, my wine imbibing skills are superior to my cooking skills. However, I did make a killer caprese salad. I found a great hotel nearby. At
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Chef João Faria teaches students how to make a beetroot salad with orange and lime vinagrette in a cooking class at Quinta Da Pacheca in Douro Valley of Portugal.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
Many people come to the Douro Valley as a day trip from Porto. I'm here to tell you that you need more than a day. Especially if the weather is cooperating and you want to take a deep breath and relax. Forget Napa; you can vineyard hop here at wineries that date back hundreds of years, and when you've had enough, you can stretch out on a boat and take a lazy cruise on the river. I booked my river cruise through a company called
Pinhão, a town north of Porto, is an ideal base for exploring the Douro River Valley.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
If you're not keen on renting a car and tour buses give you hives, this entire region is well-connected by rail. I alternated between Uber drivers and trains to get around. The trains are clean, efficient, and inexpensive.
Learn from my mistakes, my friends. If you come here, give yourself time to explore. The cities in northern Portugal may appear small, but they're designed for leisurely exploration. In Porto, you can hit a tidy checklist of sites, but the streets and canals of Aveiro (the Venice of Portugal), Guimarães (the birthplace of Portugal), and Braga (the Rome of Portugal) need to be taken in at a slower pace. Otherwise, you'll miss the best they have to offer.
I came across Aveiro by spreading a paper map in front of me and studying the topographical features of Portugal, something I hadn't done since Columbia House was selling 13 records or tapes for $1. But there it was, a curious place with a lagoon and a series of canals that's just as unique as it sounds. In Aveiro, you can cruise the canals in Moliceiro boats (think of them as Portuguese gondolas), which were used for harvesting seaweed in the 19th century. Now, the boats offer views of the city's unique architecture. The colorful boats of Aveiro merit a story all their own. I took a 45-minute tour through a company called
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São Francisco Church and Convent in Guimarães was founded in the early 15th century by King John I. It's an important example of Gothic architecture with Manueline influences.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
I also didn't spend enough time in Guimarães (sensing a theme yet?), whose city center has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it's brimming with historically important churches, as well as a medieval castle and a palace. It's often called 'the birthplace of Portugal' because the country's first king was born here.
I thought a half-day tour would be enough to see all of Guimarães's highlights. I was wrong. I should know never to underestimate the appeal of beautiful, small European cities.
As I walked through the elongated gardens in front of the elaborate, Baroque Santos Passos Church, I made a mental list of the places I'll visit upon my return.
The gardens leading up to the architecturally opulent Church of Our Lady of Consolation, in Guimarães.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
My final city to explore was Braga, a municipality of approximately 200,000 residents located about 40 miles north of Porto, and also accessible by train. It's best known for the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus, a hilltop pilgrimage site that can be reached by a 145-year-old funicular.
After trekking around Braga, I went back to my hotel, the sleek
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Outside my hotel, people were cheering, waving soccer club scarves, and chanting while cars drove by honking wildly. It looked as if the local team had just won the World Cup.
I asked one of the scarf-wavers what was going on, and he explained that Braga had tied with Benfica, a powerhouse team based in Lisbon. Tied? Wasn't this celebration a little over the top for a tie score?
Cut to me sitting shoulder-to-shoulder with soccer fans at
"Half Rabbit" is a giant sculpture made of trash that can be found in Gaia, Portugal.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
Christopher Muther can be reached at
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Boston Globe
7 hours ago
- Boston Globe
Dance poles and leopard-print walls: Love motels ready rooms for climate summit
'We're taking out anything too erotic from the rooms,' said Yorann Costa, 30, the owner of Motel Secreto, Portuguese for 'Secret Motel.' 'And the location is perfect.' The 12-day summit, the first global climate gathering to be held in the Amazon region, has set off a rush to prepare Belém, a port city of 1.3 million, for tens of thousands of visitors. To meet the demand for hotel rooms, officials vowed to nearly triple the city's stock, from 18,000 beds in 2023 to 50,000 for the event. Advertisement As the summit nears though, uncertainty over whether there will be enough lodging has pushed hotel rates above $1,000 a night and threatened to cause a diplomatic crisis, with some delegations complaining that eye-watering prices may bar poorer nations -- often grappling with the worst impacts of climate change -- from attending. Advertisement Seeking to calm jitters, Brazil said this month it had struck a deal with two cruise ships to provide some 6,000 additional beds, which will first be offered to developing and island nations at discounted rates of up to $220 per night. New hotels are also being built and old ones refurbished. Schools are being fitted with beds. Sporting clubs are being transformed into dormitories and residents are rushing to revamp homes into rentals. Still, with less than four months to go, much of the new lodging is still not complete and the city is thousands of beds short of its target. Against this backdrop, Belém's numerous love motels -- short-term accommodations that charge by the hour and often lack a reception area or amenities like gyms and pools -- are preparing to fill the gap, already tweaking and outfitting many of their 2,500 rooms for visitors attending the climate summit. 'It's the time to join forces,' said André Godinho, who represents Belém in the planning of COP30. 'The possibility of a love motel as accommodation -- it's not ugly, it's not wrong. It's part of the solution.' Love motels surged during Brazil's repressive dictatorship in the 1960s, when homes were often being surveilled. They have since become ubiquitous across the country, Latin America's largest nation, where young people often live at home well into adulthood. Inspired by American roadside lodging that charges by the hour, the Brazilian love motel quickly gained popularity by offering short-term stays for a bargain and adopting a romantic aesthetic similar to Japan's love hotels. (BEGIN OPTIONAL TRIM.) This is not the first time an emergency has forced Brazil's love motels to adapt to a different clientele. Facing hotel shortages ahead of the World Cup in 2014 and the 2016 Rio Olympics, thousands of motels were similarly revamped to welcome visitors. Advertisement This time around though, the country's love motels are preparing to welcome a different kind of guest, arriving for business rather than pleasure. (END OPTIONAL TRIM.) On a recent afternoon in Belém, efforts to refresh the city's motels and make them a touch less sexy were on full display. At Fit Motel, circular beds, a classic feature of many rooms, leaned on walls, cast aside to make space for more conventional rectangular mattresses. A few miles down the road, at Love Lomas motel, fresh coats of paint were drying and new sheets lined the beds. In the premium suite, the flashing red, green and blue lighting would remain, but guests could ask for the erotic chair -- a metal-and-leather contraption resembling a dentist's chair that was bolted to the floor for safety -- to be removed. 'People think it's like a brothel,' said Ricardo Teixeira, 49, who manages both motels and is trying to buff up their reputation. 'But it's just a space like any other.' He is not sure yet if he will swap the menus in the rooms, which offer beers and burgers, as well as sex toy rentals. (BEGIN OPTIONAL TRIM.) At the Pousada Acrópole (Portuguese for 'Acropolis'), the word 'motel' was swapped out for 'inn' and the red facade was painted a muted gray, though the plaster bas-relief of a mythological romance -- a chiseled Greek hero and a nude Aphrodite holding a red apple -- still flanks the entrance. 'This is a big opportunity for us,' said Alberto Antonio Braga da Silva, 55, the owner. Motel guests normally pick up room keys from a parking lot attendant, but he plans to add a makeshift reception for the summit. 'And in there,' Silva said, pointing to the second story, 'I'm going to have one of those -- what are they called? Coworking.' Advertisement (END OPTIONAL TRIM.) Back at Motel Secreto, Costa prepared one suite by adding bunk beds and taking down an oversized framed picture of a person's rear end that hung on the wall. But he stopped short at getting rid of the dance pole, the leopard-print wallpaper and the red, heart-shaped hot tub. 'I have to think about what comes after COP30,' Costa said. 'I can't just spend a ton of money and tear everything out.' As we stepped out of a suite into the dark hallway connecting the rooms, Costa whispered apologetically over the sound of loud moans. 'This might be a bit awkward,' he said, waving to the red lights flashing above a handful of rooms, signaling that they were occupied. 'There's lovemaking going on.' Those lights, he says, will also stay in place. So far, most motels have struggled to convince summit attendees to give them a chance. Delegations from at least half a dozen countries have inquired about booking motels during the summit, according to owners and real estate brokers, but few have reserved rooms yet. Even with few options, many visitors heading to Belém for the summit remain hesitant about the racy decorations, said Giselle Robledo, a property broker working with delegations seeking accommodations. 'The embassies are really conservative,' she said. 'They don't want to go to a love motel.' Advertisement And then there is the cost issue. Even as Brazilian officials have warned property owners to rein in prices, many motels are still asking guests to pay hundreds of dollars per night to stay in these redecorated rooms. 'The prices have been absurd, they need to come back to reality,' Robledo said. Lovers who frequent Belém's motels typically pay from $10 to $35 for the first hour, while an overnight stay in a premium suite costs more than $150. But, during the summit, some motel owners hope to charge from $300 to $650 per night. 'The market is setting these prices,' said Teixeira, who is also the regional director of the Brazilian association of love motels. 'And it's still a better deal than a hotel.' (STORY CAN END HERE. OPTIONAL MATERIAL FOLLOWS.) At a less romantic three-star hotel across the road from the conference center where the talks will be held, rooms are going for $1,250 per night, according to booking sites. 'The demand is wild,' said Jeimison Louseiro, the hotel manager, whose landlord recently asked him to vacate his nearby apartment, so that it could be rented out to summit attendees. Costa, for one, has no doubt that visitors will change their minds and pack his motel by the time the climate summit starts. In the end, he said, lodging is going to be very tight. 'Unfortunately, there won't be a room for everyone,' he said. 'And what we're offering is an option.' This article originally appeared in
Boston Globe
2 days ago
- Boston Globe
A Maine campground rents cabins inspired by Wes Anderson films. Is it worth $500 a night to live like a Tenenbaum?
Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up I thought carefully before making a reservation. Isn't camping supposed to be one of the last bastions of affordable options for a family vacation? A quick look at websites for campgrounds across New England and the country showed that prices have risen steadily since the pandemic. In the summer of 2020, people wanted to be outside, which pushed up prices. As we all know, what goes up doesn't come down when there's high demand. Advertisement Keys hang inside the Crossed Keys Society cabin at Sandy Pines Campground in Kennebunkport, Maine. The campground is now renting cottages that were designed around Wes Anderson films. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff Advertisement But, oh my, it's Wes Anderson. This was truly a sticky wicket. A devil (dressed as Willem Dafoe from what's wrong with you? As you may have gathered from the headline of this story and my general lack of restraint, I bit the bullet and made a reservation. The nine Anderson-themed cabins are more than camping or even glamping. They're essentially well-appointed double-wide trailers with enclosed three-season sunrooms and decor intended to give you the essence of living in an Anderson film. The exterior of the Crossed Keys Society cabin at Sandy Pines Campground in Kennebunkport, Maine. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff Of the nine cabin options, appropriately called Whimsical Escapes, the only one available for the days I could whimsically escape to Maine was inspired by I knew I'd found the right people for the job when I showed my dad the trailer for 'The Grand Budapest Hotel,' and he asked, baffled, 'I don't understand. Is it supposed to be a comedy?' This apple fell far from the family tree, then rolled down a hill to Advertisement Paul Schlase as Igor, Tony Revelori as Zero, Tilda Swinton as Madame D., and Ralph Fiennes as M. Gustave in "The Grand Budapest Hotel." I was hoping to show my parents 'The Grand Budapest Hotel,' along with several other Anderson films, during our $1,664.43, three-night stay at Sandy Pines, but the smart television in our cabin was glitchy — more than glitchy. There were several occasions when it simply spat out error messages, and the live cable cut in and out. I think my dad was pleased at the malfunction because it meant he had an excuse not to watch Anderson's catalog of films. This could be solved by supplying each cabin with a full library of Anderson films, either on DVD or a dedicated streaming service. I tried mirroring the screen of my MacBook to the TV and received an error message. The same thing happened when I tried to watch through one of the apps on the TV. None worked. The other issue, brought to my attention many times by my temperature-sensitive parents, was the cabin's climate controls. We found them confusing, and the instructions on how to use them were minimal. When we arrived, it took us a while to shut off the air conditioner. It was so chilly that I wished I had Margot Tenenbaum's fur coat. Sandy Pines Campground in Maine is now renting cabins based on Wes Anderson's films. This is the interior of the Cross Keys Society cabin. Christopher Muther/Boston Globe Normally, I wouldn't kvetch about small details, but given the price tag, I decided to review this cabin as if it were a luxury hotel. The cabin sleeps seven, but that means two of the seven would need to sleep in a very low-ceilinged upstairs loft. Great for kids, not so much for others. A couple more nitpicky items before we get to the good stuff: The internet was barely there. I understand that the point of camping in coastal Maine is to spend time at the beach and get greasy at clam shacks, but it's 2025, and fast, or at least functional, internet should be standard. I was warned when checking in that the internet was problematic. Those who need reliable internet can work in the campground's stylish and comfortable lobby area, but when you need to check email before bed and you've already set your hair in curlers for the night and are sporting a face full of Advertisement One of the bedrooms inside the Crossed Keys Society cabin at Sandy Pines Campground. The campground now rents a group of cabins based on the films of director Wes Anderson. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff My mother's biggest complaint was that no boxes of tissues were provided. She was also taken aback that the dish towels were from Walmart. I took issue with the off-brand toiletries. Not a problem if I was roughing it in a tent, or even glamping in one of Sandy Pines' many tents or standard cabins (the campground covers 66 acres), but not in my posh, pricey Anderson-inspired Crossed Keys Society escape. Toiletries were from a company called Eco Novo Natura, which sells primarily to hotels. A case of 400, .5-ounce bottles of the company's shampoo costs $77. At 19 cents a bottle, Gwyneth Paltrow probably wouldn't shampoo her dog with it. Sandy Pines Campground in Maine is now renting pricey cabins based on Wes Anderson's films. This is the exterior view at night. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff Enough complaining (finally!). The positives: I was impressed that the space had a large kitchen with full-size appliances. It meant we could cook meals in the cabin, although we never did. I was also impressed that the space actually felt like a unique residence rather than a boring, neutral hotel room or beachside getaway. Some furniture, light fixtures, and tchotchkes had clearly been sourced at antiques markets, or at least Facebook Marketplace. There was nothing nautical in sight, but there were nods to Anderson on almost every wall. Which, if you're an Anderson fan, is fun. If you're not an Anderson fan, it's still novel. Advertisement As a campground, Sandy Pines is incredibly well-run, and the staff is helpful and friendly. It's clean, quiet, and set along a scenic salt marsh where you can rent a canoe or paddleboard. It has several recreation areas with a bocce court, volleyball, cornhole, and a large pool. Sadly, there's no A look at the pool at Sandy Pines Campground in Kennebunkport, Maine. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff I enjoyed the combination of roughing it and staying in a comfortable cabin (once we figured out the heat). We could sit outside by the fire and make s'mores or relax inside by the gas fireplace. It's something I'd never experienced at a campground. This is glamping turned up to 11. There are more rustic cabins here, as well as more sumptuously furnished tents. Both options are much less expensive and offer a somewhat more traditional camping experience. For those with their own tents or trailers, Sandy Pines also has standard campground hook-ups. Do I wish the cabins had a bit more Anderson flavor? Totally. A plot point in 'Grand Budapest' is the painting 'Boy with Apple.' I would have loved to have seen a replica of the painting in the cabin. I decided to bring my portable record player and Françoise Hardy vinyl to spin to add to the atmosphere. But a record player and vinyl provided in each cabin would be a fun touch. Advertisement The author brought his own records and record player to Sandy Pines Campground to get the full Wes Anderson experience. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff The difficult part of writing this story is answering the question: Is it worth it? I'll start with what my parents thought. Both graded it a C, or three out of five stars. As an Anderson fan, I'll go a bit higher. I'd give it a B, or four stars. The campground manager said they're working on the internet and offered to look at the problematic television. I also understand that there are kinks to be worked out. It's a campground, not a hotel, and therefore some of the hiccups might be new to management. As an Anderson fan, I appreciate the effort and novelty of the cabins. I also think the campground is lovely and efficient. Perhaps it would be worth it if they knocked $100 off the price and reduced the minimum stay to two nights. Even with the flaws, I would stay here again. I still have eight other movie cabins to explore. Christopher Muther can be reached at
Time Business News
4 days ago
- Time Business News
12 days Kerala heritage tour
Kerala, famously known as 'God's Own Country', is a land where heritage and nature blend seamlessly. With its backwaters, ancient temples, colonial architecture, and hill stations, a 12 Days Kerala Heritage Tour offers an enriching travel experience for history buffs, culture seekers, and nature lovers alike. This tour is designed to take you on a journey through Kerala's rich past, traditional arts, Ayurvedic wellness, and pristine natural beauty—making it perfect for family vacations, senior travelers, and curious explorers. The 12 Days Kerala Heritage Tour is not just about sightseeing. It's about connecting with Kerala's centuries-old traditions, vibrant art forms, and serene lifestyle. Highlights include: Ancient temples and royal palaces Dutch, Portuguese, and British colonial history Ayurvedic treatments and cultural performances Houseboat stay on the backwaters Visits to UNESCO World Heritage Sites and heritage villages Start your heritage journey in Kochi, a historic port city that was once a major hub for spice trade. Explore: Fort Kochi & Chinese Fishing Nets Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace) Paradesi Synagogue St. Francis Church Kathakali performance in the evening Overnight Stay: Kochi Drive to Thrissur, the cultural capital of Kerala. Visit: Vadakkunnathan Temple (UNESCO tentative list) Kerala Kalamandalam (renowned art and culture academy) Thrissur Zoo and Art Museum Overnight Stay: Thrissur Visit the famous Guruvayur Temple, one of India's oldest Krishna temples, then continue to Kozhikode, a coastal city steeped in history. Attractions: Kappad Beach (where Vasco da Gama landed) Pazhassi Raja Museum Sweet Meat Street (SM Street) Overnight Stay: Kozhikode Drive to Wayanad, a tranquil region known for its tribal heritage, caves, and spice plantations. Sightseeing: Edakkal Caves (prehistoric carvings) Wayanad Heritage Museum Pookode Lake Overnight Stay: Wayanad Explore tribal villages, ancient Jain temples, and lush plantations. Enjoy optional activities like: Bamboo rafting Visit to Kuruva Island Trek to Chembra Peak Overnight Stay: Wayanad Travel to Palakkad, known for its traditional Kerala architecture and temples. Highlights: Palakkad Fort (built by Hyder Ali) Kalpathy Heritage Village Malampuzha Dam and Gardens Overnight Stay: Palakkad Drive to Alleppey, the gateway to Kerala's backwaters. En route, enjoy a traditional lunch and observe coir-making villages. Evening: Board a houseboat and cruise the tranquil backwaters. Overnight Stay: Houseboat After disembarking, travel to Kumarakom, a peaceful village on Vembanad Lake. Activities: Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary Explore heritage homestays Traditional toddy tasting Overnight Stay: Kumarakom Drive to Thekkady, home of the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary and rich spice heritage. Experiences: Spice plantation tour Visit to a tribal heritage museum Optional boat ride on Periyar Lake Overnight Stay: Thekkady Travel to Munnar, Kerala's most scenic hill station once favored by the British. Attractions: Tea Museum Kolukkumalai Tea Estate (world's highest tea plantation) Visit to British-era bungalows Overnight Stay: Munnar Soak in Munnar's colonial charm and natural beauty. Optional activities: Visit Lockhart Gap Viewpoint Nature walk in tea gardens Attend a heritage walk about plantation history Overnight Stay: Munnar Drive back to Kochi for departure. You may stop at traditional villages or local markets en route for final souvenirs. Combination of historical sites , spiritual centers , and natural wonders , , and Accommodation in heritage hotels , traditional houseboats , and plantation resorts , , and Insightful interactions with local communities and artisans A deep dive into Kerala's cultural roots and eco-friendly lifestyle October to March: Ideal for pleasant weather and clear skies Ideal for pleasant weather and clear skies April to May: Warmer but still enjoyable in the hill stations Warmer but still enjoyable in the hill stations June to September: Monsoon season – lush greenery, fewer crowds, great for Ayurveda Light, breathable clothing Modest attire for temple visits Walking shoes Rain gear (monsoon season) Sunblock and insect repellent Reusable water bottle The 12 Days Kerala Heritage Tour is not just a trip, but a transformative journey through South India's most culturally rich and naturally blessed state. It's a chance to discover the real Kerala — its warm people, vibrant traditions, and timeless stories passed down through generations. Whether you're tracing temple carvings, sipping tea in colonial-era estates, or watching the sun dip below the backwaters, this Kerala tour will leave you with memories that last a lifetime. TIME BUSINESS NEWS
