Relocated to Kanata, Lusa Bakery's perfect Portuguese tarts are back
Huge demand prompted him to take over the adjoining space and open a full restaurant that served savoury items such as popular Portuguese and North American sandwiches, along with those craveable pastries.
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In October 2022, Esteves opened another Lusa Bakery in downtown Hull. But a year later, Esteves closed the Hintonburg location. Later, he closed the shop in Hull. In both cases, he had issues with the building and landlords, he says.
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Raised in Barrhaven, Esteves wanted to open his new location in Ottawa's west end rather than downtown. His suburban strategy targeting families and people working from home echoes the business plan of the multi-location, Ottawa-based doughnut business Holey Confections.
In its Hazeldean Road mall, Lusa Bakery is a bright, spacious store with enough chairs and tables to seat 14 people beside a wall-sized mural that celebrates all things Portuguese. Much of the store is given over to imported Portuguese groceries, everything from dried beans to sardines to spices to pasta.
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But it would take lots of willpower to simply stock your pantry without buying a pastry or two as well, especially when many are priced at a trifling $2.75.
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The egg tarts were irresistibly flaky and blessed with brûléed custard that struck the right balance between sufficient but not cloying sweetness and egginess. Almond tarts were moist, nutty and again not too sweet. Bolo de arroz, a small but puffy vanilla bun made with rice flour, had an appealing, airy sponginess and a lightly sugary crust.
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Lusa also serves croissants, cannoli and cheesecake. But I've always come for the Portuguese items.
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I've only visited Lusa Bakery in the early morning, before lunch items such as barbecued chicken sandwiches, bifana (marinated pork) sandwiches and chouriço sandwiches were available. There were small fritters made with salt cod and shrimp to satisfy pre-lunch savoury cravings.
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