Hong Kong's dim sum trolleys are a tradition worth preserving

South China Morning Post

2 days ago

Dim sum trolleys that entice customers with tempting dishes used to be a familiar sight in Hong Kong. They are one of the city's best-known traditions. But as tastes and dining habits change, the number of restaurants using the iconic carts is dwindling. They are on the verge of becoming extinct. The closure of
the Metropol restaurant in September, after 35 years, will therefore be keenly felt. The traditional eatery at Admiralty's United Centre prided itself on the warm and efficient service offered by its 'dim sum ladies'.
Regular customers and long-serving members of staff will badly miss the restaurant. The closure highlights two trends.
The premises have been purchased by the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, joining others in the building used for classes. The city is seeking to establish itself as an international education hub. It is natural for there to be growing demand for spaces in urban areas offering convenience to students.
But the closure also comes at a time when the food and beverage industry is facing severe challenges which have seen
many restaurants disappear , including some serving dim sum. The problems range from the shifting demands of consumers to high rents, labour shortages and the trend of Hong Kong people
visiting the mainland on their days off.
There is a need for a concerted effort to help eateries survive – and for the industry to help itself. Restaurants need to adapt if they are to continue to appeal to diners. This is not easy for traditional eateries to do. Young people are seeking new experiences and a dim sum cart is, for many, not an exciting option.
But there is a need to preserve the tradition. The remaining restaurants – and any brave enough to adopt this time-honoured form of service – must maintain high standards and promote their business well. The once-ubiquitous trolley restaurants are now so few in number that they are almost unique.