The Menu: Déise delights as Waterford's food reputation goes from a whisper to a roar
But after my most recent 'fat-finding' mission to Déise country, I am convinced all is about to change, that a hodge podge of disparate edible elements is set to unify, turning Waterford into one of Ireland's premier food tourism destinations.
I have always been allergic to parochial inter-county braggadocio — after all, counties are an entirely artificial colonial construction — but it hasn't helped that Waterford exists in the long shadow of its Western 'neighbour', Cork, the 'food county' of Ireland.
However, this has conversely allowed Waterford space to patiently and sustainably assemble a genuinely compelling food and hospitality offering.
As in Cork, county leads city on this front: remember, Waterford is just one of 11 'Michelin starred' Irish counties; The Cliff House Hotel, in Ardmore, holding a star since 2010.
But the game changer has been the Greenway, between Waterford city and Dungarvan, transforming the tourism offering and in turn encouraging outbreaks of epicurean entrepreneurialism all along its route.
Paul and Máire Flynn, of The Tannery, are Waterford food heroes, contributing immeasurably to the transformation of Dungarvan into one of Ireland's most popular tourist destinations ever before the Greenway arrived, but its opening has only compounded the seaside town's success, and Eunice Power (And Chips) is another great champion, now helming the ever-popular Waterford Festival of Food.
Restaurants continue to open in the town and newly opened boutique hotel The Hatmaker is another welcome alleviation to Dungarvan's shortage of hospitality beds.
Even the formerly sleepy village of Kilmacthomas' revitalisation owes much to the new influx of tourists, Eamo and Ró Café and Larder a good example.
Further along the Greenway is the beautiful Mount Congreve and gorgeous gardens, where former Grow HQ chef JB Dubois is now delivering a superb produce-led seasonal menu in the café/restaurant.
Tramore may not be on the route, but it is on the Copper Coast, still an undiscovered treasure for too many in this country.
When Sarah Richards, one of Ireland's foremost real bread bakers, and partner Conor Naughton opened Seagull Bakery, it was the first stirring of a new-found food culture in a once mighty seaside holiday spot fading into obscurity.
That rebirth has been copper-fastened by the subsequent opening of Beach House, one of my favourite restaurants in the country, where Jumoke Akintola delivers deliciously simple yet simply delicious seafood-driven fare and her husband, Peter Hogan, leads front of house and curates a cracking wine list. (The couple also own/operate Dublin's equally fabulous Fish Shop and Bar Pez.)
As the child of an especially 'devout' father with a particular grá for the Cistercians, I discovered the bucolic beauty of West Waterford through regular visits to Glencairn Abbey and Mount Melleray Monastery.
Though my own vocation remained forever elusive and foundered for good on the rocks of my adult agnosticism, I have always found Cappoquin, Lismore and its hinterland especially bewitching, in particular, along the Blackwater, more redolent of the Rhine than rural Ireland.
Lismore itself is stunning, Farmgate Lismore a wonderful new addition. Though less familiar with the east of the county, I love Dunmore East in the summer for the classic Irish seaside experience, with East Pier furnishing a quintessential fish and chips offering.
If I were looking to invest, it would be in Waterford city. It has real history in spades as Ireland's oldest city and first Viking settlement, and an equally strong food history.
It also has untold development potential, with ambitious plans for the wide and handsome port area, which would be a huge fillip for the city were ambition to be transmuted into achievement.
That is the kind of boost, in incomes and population necessary to support a truly thriving hospitality sector in what was traditionally a blue-collar town, according to an old culinary comrade who grew up there.
Meanwhile, I'll more than make do with some of the very best pubs in the country, while dining well in Everett's, Union Wine Bar & Kitchen, and Mara.
Finally, a special shout out to one of Ireland's finest food emporia, Ardkeen Stores, a sublime showcase for the county's superb produce and a prime example of the sustainable supermarket in action.
Yep, The Day of the Déise is imminent, if not, this year, on the hurling field, then very much so on the plate.
ELSEWHERE...
Common Knowledge, at the edge of the Burren, launches Land & Lore, a seasonal series of immersive dining experiences celebrating the region's food, farming, and cultural traditions.
It kicks off with Farm to Fork Feast (June 27) assembling regenerative farmers, local producers, chefs, and guests to dine together, share knowledge, and connect through Irish food traditions, with three pricing tiers: reduced; standard; and pay-it-forward, to subsidise other less well off but deserving guests.
The very lovely Dunmore House is one of Ireland's finest boutique seaside hotels, its glorious Sea Terrace gazing out over Dunmanus Bay, chief amongst its charms, and the seasonal re-opening of its Boatshed Pizza only adds to its ongoing allure, where Paolo Chiappa knocks out some of the finest pizzas in the county.
Open 1pm-7pm, Thurs to Mon, dunmorehousehotel.ie
Cork Rooftop Farm hosts Jean-Martin Fortier, internationally acclaimed market gardener and author of the influential The Market Gardener, for a very special weekend (June 28-29) of immersive workshops, farm tours and discussion all focused on regenerative agriculture, innovative farming practices, and sustainable local food systems, taking place at their 60-acre organic farm in Glenbrook, Co Cork and open to all, from newbies to seasoned pros.
Early booking recommended. corkrooftopfarm.ie
TODAY'S SPECIAL
"...multi-award-winning Hotchup, a divine tomato ketchup, with real depth to its fruit-forward flavour..."
As I age, the extreme sport of chilli chugging becomes ever more fraught so I treat the fierier elements of the fine Mic's Chilli sauce range with respectful temperance, including as it does, some scorchers but all freighted with properly balanced flavours.
A special standout was multi-award-winning Hotchup, a divine tomato ketchup, with real depth to its fruit-forward flavour and a comparatively mild level of chilli heat compared to some of the nuclear offerings from the highest end of the Scoville scale.
Last night, an already stunning homemade Cashel Blue cheeseburger became veritable god-food with a healthy dollop of Hotchup.
Widely available, RRP €6.95, micschilli.com
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Irish Examiner
4 hours ago
- Irish Examiner
Travel experts share their once-in-a-lifetime itineraries for hidden Ireland
'My first tour was in 1998, right after the Omagh bomb. So it was quite the strange time,' says Ginger Aarons. From the peace process and the Celtic Tiger to the advent of a multicultural society, the travel expert and genealogy enthusiast has seen huge changes across the island of Ireland in the 27 years she's been bringing clients here on tailor-made travel trips. And she's not alone. Her fellow bespoke tour operators, Kate McCabe and Max Sussman of Bog & Thunder and Rachel Gaffney of Rachel Gaffney's Real Ireland, have also been blazing a trail from the US to highlight a 21st-century vision of Ireland to their clients, and each have their own take on what that is. Their tours are high-end, once-in-a-lifetime experiences, but all are agreed on one thing: luxury is not necessarily about helicopters, champagne, and five stars. It's to be found in those magical moments of connection, a hidden Ireland that's there, waiting to be revealed, if we just give it the opportunity to do so. Rachel Gaffney at the Port of Cork Rachel Gaffney Rachel Gaffney's Real Ireland 'Take your time. Otherwise you're just doing a drive-by,' is what Cork woman Rachel Gaffney advises the Americans for whom she organises bespoke tours of Ireland. 'Allow Ireland to unveil herself, because she will,' says the Dallas-based slow-travel advocate. Gaffney moved to the States in 1996, having worked in the Irish and UK hotel industry for decades. She set up her own travel company, Rachel Gaffney's Real Ireland, when she moved Stateside, and every year spends 12 weeks in Ireland doing on-the-ground research of what's new and what will chime with her clientele, who, typically, 'have a home in Aspen, and a home in Palm Beach, a home here, and a home there'. 'They have pretty high standards,' she says. 'They may say they're low maintenance, and in fairness, most are. Just get it right for them, that's all they want. 'I have a plan, but I don't have a plan,' she says of her annual deep dive into what Ireland has to offer. Coupled with her natural curiosity and an instinct for the new and unusual, what unfolds for her clients is an eclectic mix. While super-luxe spots invariably feature — 'Ashford and Ballyfin, those are the no-brainers. I send people there because I want them to experience that' — if a place can meet her exacting standards, it stands a chance of making the cut. 'I love Perryville House in Kinsale. Their breakfast is one of the most gorgeous in Ireland.' Rachel Gaffney on Inis Mór Gaffney has an eye for perfection, and the custom luggage racks in Perryville's rooms — no bending down required — merit special mention: 'the ergonomics of how you travel was thought about'. 'I'm matchmaking,' Gaffney says of her role as curator of a bespoke offering. 'I'm putting clients in the right place for them.' The 'truly spectacular' Dunluce Lodge in Co Antrim, is one of her recent discoveries, and only opened its doors this spring. 'When I visited, they were working on a putting green, which will be the largest putting green in Ireland. It's for the residents. So, in the evening, you can sit overlooking the sand dunes and the fourth fairway of Royal Portrush and the ocean. Then, if you like, you can walk outside and practice your putting by a fire pit.' Gaffney likes to immerse herself in a place. 'I sit in bars and restaurants by myself. I talk to people. I want to see what's happening in the area. I want to get a feel for the area, a sense of it. I want to be able to tell my clients, 'when you drive out the driveway and take a left, you can continue that coast road or you can take a fork...'' She rates Clare, calling the county one that's 'really starting to punch above its weight', and namechecks Doolin's Fiddle and Bow — 'the natural colours, the simplicity, the bare floorboards; they brought the outside in' — and the Michelin-starred Homestead Cottage: 'It's literally in the middle of nowhere.' 'I'm finding some of the best hospitality is in the most inaccessible places. If I send people, they'll throw the red carpet out for them. They'll just be so delighted to have you.' Cork is close to her heart too, with one of her 'most favourite hotels', Clonakilty's Dunmore House, sparking memories of a past trip. Gaffney had spontaneously decided to organise a morning yoga class for a group of ladies on an adjacent tiny beach and the hotel staff stepped up to elevate their experience. After the yoga 'what happened was these women, who were in their 60s and 70s, forgot themselves. They were running up and down to the water, making sandcastles. The head gardener had made a fresh-flower crown for the creator of the best one,' Gaffney recalls. 'The hotel staff brought us blankets and a picnic of strawberries and fruit from their garden and cheeses from the English Market. We were still there at four in the afternoon. It was the best day ever. Then the ladies went back to the hotel and had this fabulous dinner and sang songs in the bar. Just magical. That's luxury.' Rachel loves: Wilder Townhouse, Adelaide Rd, D2: 'It was a mansion for retired school governesses. The history in that building is so interesting.' Vandeleur Walled Gardens, Kilrush, Co Clare: 'Spectacular.' Barrow House in Tralee: 'A white Georgian manor house overlooking Barrow Bay. Ekotree knitwear, Doolin, Co Clare: 'The finest cashmere gloves I've ever seen.' Bog & Thunder's Kate McCabe and Max Sussman. Kate McCabe and Max Sussman Bog & Thunder Dubliner Maeve Brennan, a staff writer for The New Yorker in the last century, had no time for cliches about her homeland, decrying 'the bog and thunder variety of stuff that has been foisted abroad in the name of Ireland'. Her adjectives provided the perfect name for McCabe and Sussman's bespoke travel business, which has an eco-tourism and sustainability focus and operates out of the duo's Ann Arbor, Michigan base. 'We're trying to frame Ireland as the modern country that it is. We love the Aran sweaters and we love sheep and we love pubs and all that kind of stuff. But Ireland is so much more than that,' McCabe says. 'We do three types of travel,' explains Sussman, who's also a chef. 'Private itineraries for people who want to plan their own trip; group trips, and retreats.' The retreats are 'a way for us to get more deeply embedded in a specific place,' McCabe says. For their third annual writing retreat this year, they are staying in Within The Village, 'a really special place' in Roundstone, Co Galway. Last year, Max cooked for the group, and they enjoyed a pop-up by Westmeath-based chef Rose Greene of sustainable fermented food business 4Hands Studio. Bespoke food tours and curated culinary experiences are a large part of the Bog & Thunder offering. Two decades ago, New Jersey native McCabe, whose dad is from Tullamore and has connections to Belfast through her maternal grandmother, was 'doing political work around some of the outstanding issues of the peace process' as a college student, and it led to her travelling to Derry and Belfast. After graduation, she continued to visit Ireland and Max, whom she'd met in college, came too. 'We don't do typical food tours,' explains McCabe, whose background is in environmental policy and sustainability. 'When we design our tours, we usually have a theme or a narrative that we're telling throughout the tour. We're doing a tour in August with Youngmi Mayer, a Korean-American comedian whose paternal grandmother is from Cork. She just published a memoir where she talks about being Irish and not really being accepted for being Irish because she looks Korean. She's never been to Ireland before.' Everyone will 'eat amazing food', McCabe says, and there will be talks on 'Irish history and colonisation and immigration and emigration, to ground people in the themes that Youngmi talks about in her book.' Bog & Thunder lead a group around The Burren The duo like the value of involving people 'who aren't necessarily guides' in the tour conversations and are also passionate about 'trying to translate to people, whether they come on guided trips or do our private itineraries, how much of a multicultural nation Ireland is'. They feel hidden Ireland still exists, but like Gaffney, emphasise the need to venture off the beaten track to find it. 'Give yourself a little bit of time and freedom to explore a little bit. Every time we're in Ireland, we meet new people who are doing incredible things.' Once again, the Antrim coast comes up. 'One of our favourite bakeries in Ireland is Ursa Minor in Ballycastle.' Lir, a seafood restaurant in Coleraine, also gets the nod. 'We like to send people there,' McCabe says. 'It's a very beautiful spot, they're very into sustainable seafood, and sustainability is a pillar of our organisation. We like to connect travellers with people that are really walking the walk and actually translating their ethics into the food that they serve in their restaurants.' Another sustainable seafood spot they love is Goldie, on Oliver Plunkett Street in Cork, while the city's Izz Café is cited as a 'great example of an immigrant couple who moved to Ireland and started a food business'. Baltimore's two Michelin star Dede, which they acknowledge as likely to be already on people's radar, is 'one of the best restaurants in Ireland'. One of the things that makes it really special, in addition to the food, is how warm and hospitable it is,' McCabe says. 'And I'd be remiss if we were to talk about Co Cork and not mention our dear friend, Sally Barnes, the only fish smoker on the island of Ireland to work exclusively with wild fish, which is something that we consider really important.' Since 2022, McCabe and Sussman have hosted a podcast, Dyed Green, exploring Irish food and culture, and the duo have 'a medium-term goal of moving to Ireland. We'd love to own and operate a B&B with a food component one day.' Bog & Thunder love: Native Guest House, Ballydehob: We just organised a private writing retreat for some clients there. Seaweed & Saltwater camper vans: For travellers who really want to get off the beaten path and travel sustainably, they have a small fleet of eco-friendly luxury Mercedes Sprinter camper vans. They're both off-grid AND high end, and you can shower and enjoy a good night's sleep on quality sheets. Dingle Sea Salt: A project run by Tom Leach & Moe McKeown, two surfer-scientists who hand harvest and use polytunnels to evaporate all of their salt. Ginger Aarons at Torr Head Ginger Aarons Time Travel Tours Yes, it's her real name, Ginger Aarons tells me over Zoom from Portland, mentioning the Duke of Abercorn is also a sceptic: 'he can't imagine anybody would ever christen me Ginger'. That impressive namedrop is a clue as to one of Aarons's areas of expertise, genealogy; the flame-haired entrepreneur is also a master gardener, and combines these passions in her bespoke travel business, Time Travel Tours. She's been bringing clients to Ireland to find their lineage since 1998, and can trace her own paternal Maguire ancestry back to the Flight of the Earls in the 17th century. On her mother's side, Aarons's Dublin-born ancestor arrived 'in Virginia about 1710', meaning her US ancestors predate the founding of the United States. 'My forefathers fought in the Revolutionary War.' While her own expertise is considerable — 'Ashford Castle uses me for their genealogy' — she recruits experts, such as historic garden consultant and plantsman Neil Porteous and architectural historian Robert O'Byrne, 'so that everybody gets a well-rounded look at Ireland and at the history'. 'Taking people around to the gardens in Ireland is fantastic, and I have so much support — at Mount Stewart, Lady Rose came in and they gave us a Champagne welcome. I have great people on the ground.' Her genealogy tours have a maximum of 12 participants. While they research in libraries and pore over records in great houses, her clients also frequently find themselves in graveyards in search of an ancestor's resting place, with everyone helping each other in their quest. She has long worked with Historic Houses of Ireland but a new venture will see her promoting education around them and giving 'the Irish people more reason to go to these houses, whether it's for a concert or a country weekend'. Ginger Aarons in Armagh Also in the works is an associated educational film, and a book 'Dogs of Historic Houses, which is going to be from the dog's point of view'. Aarons believes that hidden Ireland is to be found in these historic houses, some of which have new owners who are bringing new life to these 'hidden gems', as they welcome paying guests for the first time and find inventive ways of making their properties generate income. Over the course of a fortnight, Aarons's garden tour clients often see three gardens a day, but the pace is never rushed, and food is always an integral part of the tailor-made experience. 'We do a salvia class at Jimmy Blake's and then go to Russborough House for lunch and a history tour. We'll meet the Royal Horticultural Society of Ireland volunteers who look after the walled garden at Russborough, and then go to June Blake's [near Blessington] for afternoon tea.' This September, Aarons's garden enthusiasts will be enjoying cookery lessons from Paul Flynn at Dungarvan's The Tannery, another 'hidden gem', and stopping off at Manning's Food Emporium, near Ballylickey in Cork. 'I've been going there for 25 years. We've had little kids come in and do their music and dancing. Then we'd have our picnic lunch and go to Bantry House for the history and the gardens. We'll be doing that again.' A new trend Aarons has noticed is more people visting Ireland for sport. 'They want to see games, even if it's a local hurling or soccer game. People are very interested in what Irish people do in daily life.' Ginger loves: Enniscoe House, Co Mayo. 'You can do a lot of walking and fishing, enjoy a glass of whiskey by the fire, and they allow dogs stay.' Dunraven Arms Hotel, Adare, Co Limerick: 'A great little hidden gem.' A virtual reconstruction of the Record Treasury and its records which were lost in a fire in 1922. 'You can research your ancestry, and look up wills and all kinds of letters on there.'
The Journal
6 hours ago
- The Journal
How will you spend your Bank Holiday weekend?
THE AUGUST BANK Holiday is nearly here. Whether it's an Irish staycation or a trip abroad, many people will be planning to spend the long weekend away from home. Others might be enjoying a quiet weekend somewhere local – and of course, some will be working through it. Advertisement There's plenty happening across the country this weekend: from All Together Now and Spraoi in Co Waterford to the Bray Air Display (and for those in north Dublin, there's also an airshow in Rush). The Fleadh Cheoil also kicks off in Co Wexford on Sunday and runs until 10 August, promising a week of music and entertainment. So, tell us: How will you spend your Bank Holiday weekend? Poll Results: Staying at home (2872) Heading away in Ireland (532) Working (509) I haven't made plans yet (395) Going to a festival/event (309) Heading abroad (276) None of the above(let us know in the comments) (195) Heading away in Ireland Heading abroad Staying at home Working Going to a festival/event None of the above(let us know in the comments) I haven't made plans yet Vote
The 42
7 hours ago
- The 42
Even the incessant rain couldn't spoil a fun week in Sydney
EVEN WITH THE incessant rain, we have got lots of glimpses of how special a place Sydney is. The Lions arrived on Sunday in party mode, rolling over from Saturday night in Melbourne to give it socks in Sydney. Some of the travelling Irish media took in the All-Ireland football final that night. It was another eye-opening moment as we bore witness to the remarkable number of Donegal and Kerry folk kitted out in their home counties' jerseys. Many of them were squeezed into the famous sports bar Cheers. Because it's a 24-hour spot, the Kerry people were able to celebrate for as long as they wanted after the Donegal heads moved on in disappointment. It's amazing how many Irish people are here in Australia. The latest figures say that over 100,000 Irish-born people are living Down Under, while around than 2.5 million Australians have Irish heritage. No matter where you go, there seems to be someone Irish. That's magnified now with the Lions tour bringing them together, but it's still remarkable. That said, just over four weeks in Australia has underlined exactly why the Irish are all here. It's a brilliant country with good infrastructure, largely gorgeous weather, incredible natural beauty, limitless craic, and world-class food and drink. You always see the best of any place when you're having fun on a rugby tour. Australia undoubtedly has the same major issues every big country does. But this trip has given a greater understanding than ever of why some of our Irish friends might never move back to Ireland. Maro Itoje at Shore School in Sydney. Alamy Stock Photo Alamy Stock Photo The Lions got up and running again on Tuesday at the immaculate Shore School, which is set on the hills in North Sydney. The views from the school grounds down over Sydney Harbour Bridge and the CBD are surreal. Annual fees at the private school range up towards €30,000 a year, and you'd know it walking around the pristine grounds. Advertisement Shore won the Great Public Schools of New South Wales rugby union competition last year. Some of their players have committed to NRL clubs when they graduate from school, while others will remain in union. Their facilities are good enough for the Lions. Wednesday saw a group of the travelling media venture out on an end-of-tour social to the Southern Highlands, where there are lots of wineries and vineyards. The train ride home involved a big singsong, which continued in a pub in The Rocks area of Sydney. At one stage, an Irishman sang, followed by a Welshman, then an Englishman. There was no sign of a Scot but it was what Lions tours are all about. Many fans you meet here have happy stories about falling in with a crew from what are otherwise rival nations. This tour seems to have been met with apathy by some back home, but those who made it over here have had the time of their lives. There hasn't been much talk of the Lions not coming back to Australia, aside from bemusement at the suggestion. Thursday was a hectic one as the Lions and Wallabies named their teams before the two head coaches, Andy Farrell and Joe Schmidt, spoke to the media. There was a nice touch from Farrell just before the Lions' press conference as he presented jerseys to two long-serving members of the press pack. Dave Rogers, a photographer for Getty, has covered every Lions tour since 1980. Stephen Jones of the Times has been ever-present since 1983. Farrell said a few nice words about them. Andy Farrell presents Dave Rogers with a jersey. Billy Stickland / INPHO Billy Stickland / INPHO / INPHO On Thursday evening, the Lions their own jersey presentation ceremony as they welcomed the Hardman family into camp. The Hardmans hail from the UK and have had to face great adversity in recent years. Kriss was diagnosed with testicular cancer back in 2020 and then in 2023, Kate was diagnosed with incurable breast cancer while she was pregnant with their youngest daughter. Kriss and Kate have been chasing the Lions in Australia along with their three young children, determined to keep enjoying life as much as possible. Kate, who was only 38 when she got her diagnosis, stood in front of the Lions players and staff last night to speak to them about her journey, as well as the experience of supporting them in Australia. She then presented captain Maro Itoje with his jersey. That must have been a stirring evening for the Lions ahead of their bid to complete a 3-0 series clean sweep. The Wallabies, meanwhile, have been working to lift their spirits after the sheer dejection of losing the series at the death last weekend in Melbourne. There were plenty of smiles at today's captain's run in the Accor Stadium, with every player and member of staff donning a fake moustache in tribute to scrum-half Nic White, who will retire from international rugby after starting tomorrow's final Test against the Lions. It turns out that a moustache suits Joe Schmidt. The Wallabies wearing their moustaches. Tom Maher / INPHO Tom Maher / INPHO / INPHO Even if they have lifted their morale in recent days, the Wallabies know they will need to find something special tomorrow. With their best player, Rob Valetini, ruled out again due to his badly-timed calf injury, they may struggle to hit last weekend's heights. And yet, the occasion will surely draw something from them. Even with the series decided, it will be a sold-out crowd of 82,000 at the Accor. The only thing dampening the build-up for all the Lions fans in town has been the very Irish rain, which has only briefly let up since Wednesday and is forecast to continue tomorrow for the third Test. Even still, we're all hoping this thoroughly enjoyable Lions tour ends with a bang in Sydney.
