Unsung riverside village is perfect place to spot seals and sip pints by the water

Wales Online

2 days ago

Unsung riverside village is perfect place to spot seals and sip pints by the water
Named by The Times as 'one of the best places to live', the riverside village has proper pubs, wildlife and coast walks
Along the hugely underrated coastline of Cardigan Bay, you'll find a small riverside village where the 186-mile-long Pembrokeshire Coast Path begins
(Image: John Francis Cardigan )
Along the hugely underrated coastline of Cardigan Bay, you'll find a small riverside village where the 186-mile-long Pembrokeshire Coast Path starts or finishes - St Dogmaels.
Previously chosen by The Times as 'one of the best places to live' in the UK, the coastal village, perched on the estuary of the River Teifi, is just a short walk from popular Poppit Sands – one of many dreamy beaches along the Cardigan Bay and Pembrokeshire Coast where you can spot seals, dolphins and sea birds.
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According to the Cardigan Bay website, St. Dogmaels also has a rich history dating back to the Norman invasion. It's famous for the remains of a 12th-century Tironian St Dogmaels Abbey, one of the richer monastic institutions in Wales at the time.
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The Priory was established in 1113 and later upgraded to an abbey in 1120. The Abbey has just received funding to develop its visitor centre and attract more tourists.
Today, it has a small population and over 30 listed buildings, including the parish church, the Abbey, the medieval flour mill, Y Felin, and a selection of proper pubs where you can grab a pint with a view.
Here's how to make the most of a trip to St. Dogmaels.
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Have a pint with a view
The Ferry Inn, St Dogmaels
(Image: The Ferry Inn, St Dogmaels )
Have a pint with a view at the award-winning riverside pub & restaurant, the Ferry Inn. This rustic-chic waterfront pub sits on the bank of the River Teifi, offering a sweeping riverside panorama.
Bag a seat outside, enjoy local ales, and order the filling 'Seafood Basket', loaded with a battered and deep-fried basket of Cod Bites, Salt and pepper Squid, Prawns, squid rings, chips, and garnish.
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But it's not just the balconies and large decked areas that make this a great place to enjoy a tipple outside; there is also a jetty for customers who plan to arrive in style by boat. Visit The Ferry Inn's website for more information.
The Teifi Waterside Hotel and Restaurant is another great spot for drinks by the river. This bar, restaurant, and carvery serve seasonal fresh ingredients from local farmers' markets and fishermen.
For a community vibe, swing by The White Hart Community Inn, recently lauded as one of Britain's friendliest pubs. It also has a five-star Tripadvisor rating, where two-thirds of its reviews praised the establishment's 'friendly' and 'welcoming' ambience.
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Go on a wildlife-watching boat trip
St. Dogmaels is the launch pad for boat adventures along the marine-life-rich estuary and coastline.
(Image: Portia Jones )
St. Dogmaels is the launch pad for boat adventures along the marine-life-rich estuary and coastline.
Cardigan Bay stretches over 129 miles, from Bardsey Island off the Llŷn Peninsula in the north to the wild headland of Strumble Head in the south. It's home to the largest population of dolphins in Europe, and its rich waters are a haven for wildlife, including seals and seabirds.
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For nature lovers, this is the best place in Europe to spot dolphins, especially if you're skimming over the waves on a fast-paced RIB ride through the bay's choppy waters.
Book a budget-friendly Bay Explorer boat trip with local pros, 'A Bay to Remember'. Departing straight from St Dogmaels, this exhilarating hour-long adventure takes you zipping around the coast on high-speed RHIBs. With a sharp-eyed skipper at the helm, you'll scan the frothing waves and rocky outcrops for all kinds of wildlife.
As the boat bounces over the water, keep your eyes peeled for herring gulls and razorbills swooping overhead or settling on craggy perches.
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Before you know it, you'll be skimming past Mwnt, a sandy, crescent-shaped bay that's one of the top spots in Ceredigion for dolphin sightings. And if you're lucky, you might spot those unmistakable dorsal fins slicing through the turquoise sea before disappearing with a flick.
The trip doesn't stop there. Next up: tucked-away, pebbled coves where Atlantic grey seals sprawl out on sun-warmed rocks.
These adorable locals are hard to miss. Their distinctive heads earned them the nickname 'sea pigs with hooked noses.'
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Watching these wild, whiskered characters loll about and slip through the surf is a true highlight of the area and should be on top of your travel list.
Learn about local history at the Coach House Visitor Centre at St Dogmaels Abbey
St Dogmaels Abbey
(Image: Cadw. Crown Copyright )
Located beside the atmospheric ruins of St Dogmaels Abbey, The Coach House is one of Pembrokeshire's loveliest historical stops and is the heart of the local community.
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As the visitor centre for the mediaeval Benedictine abbey, it houses a small museum with carved stones, fascinating artefacts, and exhibitions that bring the area's rich history to life.
Inside, there's a café serving organic coffee, breakfasts and lunches made with local ingredients, free Wi-Fi, and a gallery filled with thought-provoking work by local artists. It's also a great place to pick up maps and walking guides for the Pembrokeshire Coast Path.
The Coach House hosts events year-round, from Shakespeare in the Abbey ruins to seasonal fairs and concerts. Every Tuesday morning, the courtyard fills with stalls for the popular local producers' market.
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Hike the coast path
And if you have more time in the area, it's worth doing the entire Pembrokeshire Coast Path
(Image: Portia Jones )
St Dogmaels is the beginning or end point of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path National Trail, a 186-mile (300-km) stretch of the Wales Coast Path offering walkers spectacular coastal scenery and wildlife.
You can plod the entire path or break it into smaller sections. Adventurous hikers should try the challenging Dogmaels to Newport Sands, 15 miles known as the trail's most thigh-burning and remote section, with limited amenities.
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From St Dogmaels, you can attempt an 11.7-mile coastal stretch from Cardigan to Aberporth. Highlights along the way include the dramatic headland at Mwnt, the birdlife of Birds Rock, the tidal island of Ynys Lochtyn, and the expansive Ynyslas dunes.
Wildlife sightings are common here; look out for bottlenose dolphins, seals, and even porpoises along the pebble-strewn cliffs and coves.
A bronze otter statue marks the official start of the route in Cardigan. It stands beside a quayside wall inscribed with poetry by local writer Ceri Wyn Jones.
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As you leave town, the path follows the north bank of the River Teifi, passing farmland and the likely site of the original wooden Cardigan Castle, hastily built to control the river and access to the sea.
The route continues past the Cardigan Golf Club and the Victorian-era Cliff Hotel, once part of a grand vision to turn this coastline into a rival to Brighton.
From there, it's a clifftop walk toward Aberporth, with panoramic sea views and a coastline dotted with caves, sea stacks and rock formations with evocative local names like Hatling Bigni, Pen Peles and Pencestyll. These rocky markers were once essential reference points for mariners navigating this wild stretch of coast.
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Visit Poppit Sands
Poppit Sands
(Image: John Francis, Cardigan )
Poppit Sands is a must-visit beach in Wales with blue-flag bathing, a lush bakery, and coastal walks. This wide, dune-backed beach at the mouth of the River Teifi has all the hallmarks of a brilliant Welsh beach, expansive golden sands, big skies, sweeping estuary views and even dolphin sightings if you're lucky!
While there are plenty of beaches in the area, Poppit offers the perks of a classic beach day: soft sand, wildlife, a bakery café, and plenty of space to spread your beach towel.
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The stretch of coastal path between Poppit Sands and Strumble, where Cardigan Bay curves around, is often populated by porpoises and dolphins. The undulating dunes around the beach are also home to birds, butterflies, and insects.
Marine-life-rich rock pools are perfect for a spot of low-tide exploration, and if you're into birdwatching, you'll be in your element. Bring your binoculars and look for guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, and kittiwakes.
There are also plenty of amenities here, including paid parking by the shoreline, public toilets, and the brilliant Crwst beachside café and bakery where you can grab coffee, cakes, and locally made ice cream between sandcastle sessions or post-hike refuels.
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