UNICO in Gurugram brings together clean design and plant-forward plates

The Hindu

6 days ago

In the heart of Gurugram's glass-and-steel sprawl, a new vegetarian Mediterranean-European restaurant on Golf Course Road offers something rare: a literal breath of fresh air. Unlike its flashier neighbours, UNICO speaks in scent and shadow; think fresh basil, filtered light and the slow swing of hand-woven lamps.
Over 2,000 plants live here, on rotation: climbing up walls, tucked into corners or hanging overhead like a green canopy. Some end up on the plate; others are just here to breathe. 'It's not just décor,' says culinary director, UNICO, Richa Johri, who previously helmed the kitchens at Taj Mahal, New Delhi, and Taj President, Mumbai. 'We want people to breathe easy. To eat without feeling heavy and leave feeling lighter.'
That philosophy is visible in the smallest details. Natural material like cotton, wood, cane and terracotta dot the 120-cover space. The air here is filtered and constantly monitored, with purifiers keeping the AQI below 60: often cleaner than most homes in Delhi-NCR.
But none of this is shouted from the rooftops. Instead, sustainability is woven in quietly: in the way light filters through open spaces, and their minimal waste ethos.
Small plates, big intent
If the greenery sets the tone, the menu seals the mission. Portions are deliberately modest with no overflowing plates or unnecessary excess. Childhood habits shaped that stance, says Johri. 'My mother made us sit at the table until every grain of rice was gone. That ingrained respect for food has never left me.'
That philosophy shapes not just portion sizes but also kitchen practices. Vegetables are sourced from local farms, oils are cold-pressed in-house, and even the flour for their pasta is milled in-house. 'Vegetable peels find new purpose in cocktails, either as vibrant garnishes or natural colourants and often return to the kitchen as stock or glaze for other dishes on the menu. Even spent coffee grounds are used as body scrubs, sometimes handed out as thoughtful takeaways for guests,' adds Johri.
On the plate, the eco-conscious mindset shines. The seasonal mango-avocado salad featured lettuce grown in their in-house hydroponic garden. The beetroot aglio olio owes its jewel tone to beetroot; no artificial dyes in sight.
At no point does one miss meat. The vegetarian menu is wide, with soups, salads, small plates, artisanal pastas, risottos, gnocchi, pizzas and pide (a savoury Turkish dish), and even a thoughtfully designed menu for children. A standout dish was the three bean and Gruyere crepes: ragi pancakes filled with edamame, fava and kidney beans, paired with ginger tea crème fraîche and homemade mulberry chips. And while churros are usually a sweet treat, UNICO flips the script. Their spicy yam churros, served with a truffle beurre blanc, delivered a bold savoury kick mellowed by the dip's creamy richness.
The mushroom pâté, however, did not quite hit the mark. Flavoured with whisky, cream, and herbs, it leaned too heavily on richness, and despite the honey chilli jam adding a much-needed kick, the dish felt more style than substance.
For those craving something more indulgent, there's the king trumpet mushroom steak with parmesan purée and smoked olive caramel, or a green pea and preserve lemon risotto elevated with mascarpone and parmesan. The dessert menu has a few classic options like salted caramel cheesecake and a Belgian chocolate mousse. If you are experimental, either go for the deconstructed knafeh or UNICO's orange basket.
The latter is a playful ode to childhood memories, bringing together mandarin jelly-filled orange mousse, an orange posset cream horn, orange-cinnamon chocolate churros, orange-pistachio ice cream, and an orange coffee shot. It may sound like citrus overkill but the dish captured orange in all its forms without feeling repetitive.
Innovative drinks
That same spirit of innovation carries into the drinks menu. The gin-based White Basil, layered with elderflower and a hint of olive oil, tasted like spring in a glass. The Spice Drupe, a rum-based cocktail with house-made coconut water (infused sous-vide with toasted coconut) and citrus, gets its reddish hue from beetroot.
For teetotallers, options like the Dunes of Tamar (dates, pomegranate, banana, mint and lemon) and a dessert-inspired tiramisu with espresso and mascarpone, hold their own.
At UNICO, sustainability is not a performance — it is a practice.