
Been to Barcelona? Now try Spain's lesser-known cities
With Spain receiving record-breaking numbers of international visitors in the past two years — up to 94 million last year — it pays to hunt out its quiet corners. And there are plenty of areas where travellers have yet to claim a stake. While major Spanish cities like Barcelona, Madrid and Seville justifiably receive millions of visitors a year, the country is packed with dozens of disarmingly beautiful and fascinating smaller centres that can get overlooked. Many of these have equally exciting gastronomy scenes, thriving arts cultures and curious historical treasures worth exploring — and you'll get to experience them with far fewer crowds. Swap Madrid for Salamanca
Best for: the food scene
If Madrid's fabled cocktail of architecture, gastronomy and nightlife appeals, Salamanca in the neighbouring Castilla y León region makes a tempting alternative. Easily reached by train from Madrid in just 1.5 hours, this long-established university city reportedly has one of the highest ratios of tapas bars to people in Spain. It's also home to one of the country's most spectacular squares, the baroque Plaza Mayor, which is lined with bar-terrace tables and buzzing in the evening. Explore Salamanca's 800-year-old university, with its elaborately carved facade, and the city's two adjoined cathedrals. The oldest, Catedral Vieja, is mostly Romanesque, while the other is a later mix of gothic and renaissance style. Then dive into the world of Castilian dishes and wines, perhaps at Tapas 3.0 or Cuzco Bodega. grupotapas.com cuzcobodega.es Swap Toledo for Cáceres
Best for: a UNESCO-listed old town
The capital of Spain until 1561, Toledo is a popular day-trip destination from Madrid. Cáceres, on the other hand, requires a little more effort to reach and receives far fewer visitors — but the reward is its Ciudad Monumental, a hauntingly beautiful walled old town that's been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986. A three-hour train journey from Madrid into the Extremadura region immerses you in this stone-built maze whose roots date back to the Romans. Today it's best known for its noble gothic-renaissance buildings, but also retains lofty watchtowers and other relics from its time under medieval Islamic rule. This is a city with serious art credentials too: the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Helga de Alvear houses pieces by Francisco de Goya, Antoni Tàpies and Ai Weiwei. museohelgadealvear.com Swap San Sebastián for Vitoria-Gasteiz
Best for: Basque bar crawls
Quieter yet equally as interesting as its extrovert sibling San Sebastián, just over an hour's drive to the north, Vitoria-Gasteiz is the Basque Country's often-overlooked capital. Though it's off the coastal path, the city is home to superb food and architecture and receives far fewer tourists. The steep, narrow streets of Vitoria-Gasteiz's medieval Old Town are lined with prize-winning pintxos bars that compete to create the most tantalising, innovative culinary creations. Elsewhere you'll find gothic cathedrals and belle époque villas as well as grand, leafy boulevards and a clutch of museums. Vitoria-Gasteiz is also one of Spain's most sustainable cities, with pedestrianised streets, eco-friendly hotels and restaurants and a 'green ring' of leafy spaces circling the city. The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Helga de Alvear in Cáceres houses pieces by Francisco de Goya, Antoni Tàpies and Ai Weiwei. Photograph by Museo Helga de Alvear Swap Seville for Granada
Best for: Andalucian atmosphere
While Seville has risen to become one of Spain's most popular city breaks, its little brother Granada remains mostly known for its UNESCO-designated Alhambra palace and fortress. But there's far more to this intimate city, which echoes Seville's Moorish monuments, fiery flamenco and terrific tapas scene, yet has its own lively twist. Stay a few days to roam the sloping Albaicín district, where locals and visitors gather on broad terraces to catch views across terracotta rooftops to the Alhambra, backed by the spectacular Sierra Nevada mountains. Just behind the Catedral de Granada, the Mercado de San Agustín has counters overflowing with fresh produce, such as jamón from Trevélez in the Alpujarras hills. In neighbouring Realejo, the historical Jewish quarter, people spill out of busy bars and restaurants like Candela, Taberna La Tana or Cisco y Tierra. tabernalatana.com Swap Barcelona for Málaga
Best for: galleries & beach culture
Sunny Málaga has firmly put itself on Spain's flourishing art map in the last decade or so — and not just as the birthplace of Picasso. The pedestrianised historic centre rewards gallery-hopping itineraries taking in highlights such as the Museo Carmen Thyssen Málaga, crammed with Spanish art from the 19th and 20th centuries. Stroll over to the revamped Soho district to catch street art by both Malagueño and international artists, or wander through the lush Parque de Málaga to the local offshoot of the Paris-born Centre Pompidou. Nearby, Malagueta beach has great swimming off its silver-tinged sandy strand and a string of chiringuitos (beach restaurants) cooking espetos (fish skewers, traditionally made with sardines) on open-air grills. Throw in a flourishing tapas culture, a wave of stylish rooftop bars and Mercado de Atarazanas — one of southern Spain's finest markets — for a genuine rival to crowded Barcelona. carmenthyssenmalaga.org centrepompidou-malaga.eu Swap Córdoba for Almería
Best for: Moorish architecture
The entrancing Mezquita of Córdoba deservedly bags a top spot on any Andalucia itinerary, but there are other Moorish legacies worthy of travellers' attentions. Now with a growing number of direct flights from the UK, coastal Almería has its own story to tell about this key chapter of Spain's past. Often overlooked by international visitors, the city was a major Islamic-era port, as still shown by the grand, sand-hued Alcazaba (fortress) looming above its whitewashed homes. The building dates to the 11th century and has palm-filled gardens with trickling fountains and pools reminiscent of Granada's Alhambra. Spend the rest of your time wandering through the medieval old town and squeezing into tapas bars for local specialities such asmigas (flour or breadcrumbs fried with garlic and perhaps anchovies or chorizo) or Alpujarras cheese. Also on Almería's doorstep are the peaceful, sun-toasted beaches of the Parque Natural Cabo de Gata-Níjar. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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National Geographic
3 hours ago
- National Geographic
The picturesque Spanish villages that tourists haven't found—yet
Slightly up north of Madrid and Barcelona, nestling at the foothills of the Pyrenees, lies the region of Aragon, rich in history and natural beauty. Here, green hills hug the soaring mountains and dense forests open up to flowering meadows. Down in the valleys, ancient castles hide among the olive groves, endless vineyards disappear into the horizon and centuries-old villages bask in the Mediterranean sun all summer long. Aragon's historical claim to fame reaches all the way to America. Known as the Kingdom of Aragon in the 11th century, it became a precursor to the modern-day Spain, when King Ferdinand of Aragon married Queen Isabella of Castile in 1469. About two decades later, the royal couple financed Christopher Columbus's voyage to the New World. In recent years, beautiful nature and booming gastronomy placed Aragon on the map again, yet so far it has managed to evade mass tourism. Clinging to the banks of the Ebro River, Aragon's breezy capital Zaragoza remains uncrowded—even in summer. So do its medieval villages that are sprinkled throughout the countryside. Marvel at historical treasures Zaragoza boasts an amalgam of architectural styles, including Romanesque, Baroque, Gothic, and Renaissance, as well as the Mudejar, a mix of Islamic and Christian styles, that is prominent in the Aragon region. Visit the Alfajería Palace— parts of which date to the 11th century—to see some of these features harmoniously blending together. Unusual for a relatively small city, Zaragoza has two cathedrals: La Seo, which hosts a tapestry collection, and Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, famous for frescos painted by Francisco de Goya. About an hour north of Zaragoza sits Loarre Castle, built in 1085. Today, it's better known for its appearance in the 2005 Kingdom of Heaven movie, in which Orlando Bloom rides his horse up the castle steps. Another hour north brings you to the Monastery of San Juan de la Peña, a unique sanctuary carved out of the mountain, now a museum. La Seo is home to a world-class collection of Flemish tapestries. Photograph By Dorothea Schmid/laif/Redux Explore medieval villages In the second half of the 20th century, Aragon struggled with the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War and World War II. 'Farmers couldn't feed their families, so they went to big cities looking for work at factories and many villages were nearly abandoned,' says Aragon-based Alba Cruells, whose company Spain Insights offers custom tours of the region. 'Today, the trend has reversed. People are returning to their ancestral homes, reviving the region, which sparked rural tourism.' One of the oldest Aragon villages, Alquézar retains much of its medieval looks. Traverse its labyrinthian cobblestone streets and Plaza Mayor, the main square, where centuries-old houses still maintain massive wooden doors once used to let horse carriages pass through. Note the still-intact animal hooves nailed on or above the doors—medieval residents believed that they warded off witches. (Why Menorca's capital is one of Spain's most underrated cities) Visit San Vicente in Roda de Isabena, the oldest cathedral in Aragon with a beautiful cloister. In Ainsa, take a stroll down the main street to see the Traditional Arts and Crafts Museum that displays medieval household items ranging from spinning wheels to iron tools. Keep an eye out for Apartamentos El Pozo: About 10 years ago, when the owners renovated the basement, they discovered a 15th century mikve—a purifying ritual Jewish bath, which temporarily turned the building into an archaeological site. Today you can see the bath through the glass cover on the first floor—the doors are open. The Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor dates back to the ninth century. Photograph By Tolobalaguer/Shutterstock Indulge in local specialties One of the region's most famous specialties is frutas de Aragon, sweets made with candied pears, peaches, apricots, cherries, and plums, dipped in rich dark chocolate. The local lore states that Aragon was the first place in Europe where chocolate arrived from the New World, brought by the traveling monks, who perfected the recipe over the years. Stock up to take some home at Pastelería Fantoba in Zaragoza or browse the city's Central Market where you can also pick up Jamón de Teruel, Aragon's prized ham made from pigs raised in the mountainous Teruel region before curing for 12 months. (15 of the best Spanish food experiences) On the countryside, stop at Quesos Bal de Broto in Sarvisé for local cheeses and a tour of its aging cellar. At Alquézar's family-owned bakery Panaderia O'Forno, treat yourself to a dobladillo, a thin and crispy pastry filled with almond paste. Then proceed to the nearby village of Buera to see Torno de Buera, an olive oil museum that features an 17th-century olive oil press. You can also taste some of the oil varieties, which surprisingly differ in flavor based on where in the region they come from. Wine-tasting choices abound here, but Enate in Salas Bajas stands out. A winery and art gallery, it's a place to sip a heritage vintage while learning about contemporary Spanish art. Zaragoza's Central Market has been selling local food since 1903. Savor the ultimate farm-to-table gastronomy Some of the best dishes in Aragon are found in local villages where produce literally comes to the table from a farm across the road. 'Some of Spain's best chefs are moving to the countryside for that super fresh produce,' says Cruells. 'Many rural restaurants join the 'zero kilometers' movement, in which ingredients travel as little as possible.' One of them is Molino de Larués, a cozy spot in the village of Larués; it boasts unique dishes like tomato-and-cherry soup with a dollop of ice-cream. Local chefs take pride in minimizing waste by using all parts of an animal. It's not uncommon to see dishes like 'stewed pigs' cheeks' on the menus—a tender, juicy delicacy you can try at La Cocinilla in Torla-Ordesa. For tapas, head to Nyibeta Degustacion in Buera to savor ternasco de Aragón—slow-roasted lamb with potatoes, and fideuá de pulpo—an octopus with short noodles. Aragon's chefs love experimenting with mixing bold ingredients too: In Zaragoza, stop by La Flor de Lis for a tomato-rabbit salad dressed with a pine nut vinaigrette and thyme-flavored ice-cream. Aragon chefs and restaurants pride themselves on sourcing ingredients from within the region. Photograph By Nano Calvo/VWPics/Redux (Top) (Left) and Photograph By Francesco Bonino/Shutterstock (Bottom) (Right) Hike, bike, and fly From glacier-covered peaks to majestic waterfalls, the Pyrenees are spectacular. Ordesa and Monte Perdido National Park offers trails for all hiking levels as well as cycling and mountain biking routes. For a thrilling hike, take Ruta congosto de Entremón in Sobrarbe Geopark, where the paths, etched on the edges of forested cliffs, can be so narrow that you must hold on to ropes to keep walking. (8 of the best beach cities in Spain) Similarly exhilarating is a trek through the River Vero Canyon that begins outside of Alquézar and weaves through a network of passageways mounted on steep cliffs, overlooking gorges and waterfalls below. The Pyrenees-Mont Perdu area is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Photograph by Francois Laurens / Hans Luca/Redux 'If you're uncomfortable with heights, these walks are probably not for you,' cautions local guide Guayo Mulero. But if you crave the adrenaline rush, try 'flying like a bird' over the mountains at the Tirolina-Ordesa zipline, Mulero suggests. It's said to be the longest in Europe and the fastest in the world with a speed of nearly 100 miles per hour. A nomadic New Yorker, Lina Zeldovich shimmied with belly dancers in Turkey, cooked a zebu stew in Madagascar, fished for piranhas in the Amazon, paddled away from a calving iceberg in the Arctic, sipped a drink made from a venomous snake in Peru—and always lived to tell the story. She is the author of the book, The Living Medicine, part of which takes place in Tbilisi, Georgia.


Bloomberg
3 hours ago
- Bloomberg
Interior Designer's Home in San Miguel de Allende Lists for $3.2 Million
A decade ago, interior designer Rela Gleason took a trip from California to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, and fell in love with the popular vacation destination in the country's central highlands, which is known for its Spanish colonial architecture, charming cobbled streets and thriving art scene. 'Many people will tell you that they go to San Miguel and their checkbook comes out and they buy a property,' Gleason says. She decided to do the same in 2015 after finding a plot of land on a quiet street in the historic center of town.


Los Angeles Times
4 hours ago
- Los Angeles Times
Fierce pride is at the core of the Chumash Museum, a worthwhile day trip from L.A.
For thousands of years, the Chumash people lived along California's Central Coast and on its Channel Islands. Then the newcomers arrived — Spanish explorers, Catholic missionaries, Mexican rancheros, California settlers — and the Chumash way of life was dismantled, their people enslaved and their traditions, culture and language forbidden. So it's hardly surprising that the main message at the new Santa Ynez Chumash Museum and Cultural Center is as poignant as it is defiant: 'We are the first people. And we are still here.' The museum, which opened in May, sits on Highway 246 and Edison Street in tiny Santa Ynez, just across the road from Chumash Casino Resort operated by the Santa Ynez Band of Chumash Indians. But where the resort is a sleek, modern high-rise, the low-lying museum and lushly landscaped grounds are dedicated to the past, showcasing the stories, craftsmanship and even the plants of the Chumash, whose bands ranged along the coast from Malibu to Morro Bay and as far inland as the San Joaquin Valley, said Nakia Zavalla, the tribal historic preservation officer and cultural director of the Santa Ynez band. While the focus is on the past, however, the museum's storytelling is high-tech, with lots of interactive displays that activate with just the wave of a hand. The tribe doesn't permit photos inside the museum, and the few photos provided for publication don't really do the exhibits justice, so believe me when I say the displays are far more engaging than just shelves of artifacts and well worth a visit for adults and children. From the large parking lot, the path to the entrance winds along a man-made recirculating stream lush with spiky, deep-green mounds of deergrass (Muhlenbergia rigens), feathery sandbar willow (Salix exigua) and a variety of juncus such as basket rush (Juncus textilis), used for making the tribe's intricate baskets. The 3.5-acre grounds as well as the museum itself were designed by Jones & Jones Architects of Seattle, which also designed the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian in Washington, D.C. The main entrance is visually stunning, bringing visitors inside a larger-than-life 'ap' (pronounced ahp), a towering representation of the traditional Chumash dwellings made from willow branches and dried leaves of tule plants, such as hardstem bulrush (Schoenoplectus acutus), which also grows on the grounds. The museum's entry is like a giant dome with a big round skylight at the top. The large, sloping walls feature projections of birds taking flight and sparks rising from the faux firepit in the center of the room, along with detailed illustrations recognizing the region's Chumash bands. Inside, the exhibits are arranged in a meandering flow (just follow the blue line) that introduces visitors to a large and engaging range of interactive displays and stories, many of which were provided by elder Maria del Refugio Solares, Zavalla's 'fifth great-grandmother' and one of the last native speakers of the Chumash language Samala. Some tribal members are trying to resurrect Samala through classes and 'just getting together and speaking with each other,' said Zavalla. 'It's opened so many doors to understanding our culture, our medicinal plants and ceremonies.' Solares died in 1923 at 81, but left wax cylinder recordings of Chumash songs, stories and translations with linguist and Native American language ethnologist John Peabody Harrington. Incorporating Solares' songs and stories makes the exhibits come alive. For instance, near the beginning of the permanent exhibit there is a cave-like room explaining the Chumash understanding of the universe, which is divided into three levels. The upper world is inhabited by celestial Sky People, such as Sun and Sky Coyote, whose peón gambling games affected the seasons for everything from harvesting acorns to hunting game. The dark, eerie lower world is dominated by two giant rattlesnakes whose writhings cause the ground in the middle world — our world — to shake. The phases of the moon? Those are caused by the way Slo'w, the Sky Eagle, stretches his wings. Thunder? The result of two brothers in the Upper World playing a rowdy stick game. Nearby, an alcove features a preserved California condor known as AC8, the last female in the wild who was taken into captivity in 1986 to become part of a breeding program to rebuild the critically endangered population of North America's largest land bird. In the exhibit, you must look up to see her, preserved as if in flight, her massive wings outstretched, while below is a miniature depiction of the local hills with a small gliding shadow of a condor in flight. Further on are hunting outfits made from deer and bear heads and skins, examples of traditional Chumash stick and gambling games, and stuffed animals for children that were — literally — dead, cuddly rabbits carefully preserved. There are exquisite medallions and hair ornaments made from iridescent abalone shells and strings of Chumash currency — tiny, doughnut-shaped beads created from carefully cut olivella shells. And of course, there are multiple examples of Chumash basket weaving, from the tightly woven vessels used to hold food and even water to the carriers designed to securely tote babies. The museum includes more recent history as well, such as the startling news that running water wasn't available on the reservation until 1969. Outside, in the 3.5-acre cultural park, you can follow a winding trail through the Ancestor's Grove — young coast live oak trees, each with a marker honoring a deceased tribal elder — to view the long redwood plank canoe known as a tomol, big enough to seat at least six adults and used annually to re-create the trips their ancestors made between the mainland and the Channel Islands. The park also features another recirculating stream and 100 species of native plants that would have provided food, shelter and habitat in the region before the explorers and colonists arrived. The landscape is constantly changing, said Megan Carey, the museum's collections and archives manager. 'One of my favorite things about the Culture Park is that you see something different, something blooming, every week.' The Santa Ynez Chumash Museum and Cultural Center is open Thursday-Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Reserved-time tickets can be purchased online. Tickets are $15 for ages 18-64; $12 for ages 65 and older, teens 13-17, and military members with ID; $10 for ages 3-12; and free for toddlers 2 and younger. Tickets aren't sold past 4 p.m. Parking is free. The museum also has a well-stocked gift store near the parking lot, but for food, shopping and other excitement, you'll need to venture into the sometimes rustic, sometimes well-heeled town of Santa Ynez, where you'll find upscale clothing and furnishing stores that don't cater to tourists as much as the monied locals outfitting themselves and, perhaps, second or third homes. Here are other things to do in Santa Ynez but take note: Some restaurants are closed on Mondays. Dining: I had an excellent roast beef sandwich (chosen from many tempting options) at Panino Sandwich Shop, but there are many other dining options. Locals highly recommended the Baker's Table for bread, pastries, breakfast and lunch, and Brothers Restaurant at the Red Barn or Trattoria Grappolo for dinner. If you want a down-home atmosphere, try the Longhorn Coffee Shop for breakfast (it closes at 1 p.m. and the only coffee served is cowboy coffee, black); or for lunch, the nearby Maverick Saloon where the ceiling is papered by dangling dollar bills (children are welcome, they just can't sit at the bar). Pony Cocktails & Kitchen boasts 'all day cocktails and dining' starting at 8 a.m. (although it closes at 2:30 p.m. on Sundays and Mondays). Coffee: Try Queen Cup Coffee (adjacent to a very cute Lucky Hen Larder sandwich and cheese shop.) Shopping: Several tony options if you're in the market for luxury home furnishings (such as very cool denim placements at $35 each) and/or designer clothing (Santa Ynez General offers both along with candles, soaps and toothpaste — and is a nice non-snooty place to browse). Charlotte's Santa Ynez specializes in unique (and gorgeous) sterling silver and turquoise jewelry and belts, along with other Native American jewelry. And if your head is feeling naked, KJ Murphy's promises a 'premier custom hat experience' and choices that range from authentic cowboy hats to fedoras and trucker hats. Out of the ordinary: In the center of town, the Santa Ynez Valley Historical Museum and Parks-Janeway Carriage House promises 'the largest horse-drawn vehicle collection west of the Mississippi' including a stagecoach, farm wagon and fire engine in addition to examples of 'regional saddlery, period apparel, and vintage horse gear.' And just a few miles down the road is Rancho Olivos, an 8-acre olive oil farm that offers an assortment of delicious olive oils, produced from their own olives, along with several vinegars. The balsamic vinegar is outstanding, and the Spanish-style Arbequina oil has a delicious, buttery flavor. I wish I had bought a dozen bottles, but now I have another excellent reason to return.