The picturesque Italian town where the Pope goes on holiday

Telegraph

a day ago

As Pope Leo XIV decamped to one of the Pontifical Villas in Castel Gandolfo for what the Vatican called 'a period of rest,' it would appear that prayers have been answered for the residents of this town perched atop volcanic Lake Albano.
Popes have been coming to this hilltop hamlet, 15 miles south of the Eternal City, for hundreds of years to reflect and pray – and escape the Roman heat. Their divine presence is a tourism magnet, a boon to this town of 9,000 in the Alban Hills of the Castelli Romani (Roman Castles) area.
The late Pope Francis opted to staycation in his modest Roman guest house during the summers of his 12-year tenure – in line with his so-called 'pauperistic papacy' – taking fewer meetings but still pressing on with papal business.
This meant that the Pontifical Villas in Castel Gandolfo remained largely uninhabited for more than a decade, ultimately impacting the local economy, as having a pope in residence helps attract the tourist throngs that have historically filled the main square of Piazza della Libertà.
However, now that Pope Leo XIV is settled in at Villa Barberini – he took up residence in this papal property on July 6 and will stay through July 20, returning briefly in mid-August for the Feast of the Assumption – the streets of the village are once again abuzz. But it would appear that Leo XIV hasn't yet had much time to relax by the controversial swimming pool installed by Pope John Paul II or make use of the tennis or bocce courts.
For an inside look at the Pope's summer home, visitors can book a guided tour to see the Papal Palace and Papal Gardens of Castel Gandolfo, which visitors might recognise from the 2019 film The Two Popes, a fictionalised account of discussions about the future of the Catholic Church that took place between Pope Benedict XVI and then-Cardinal Jorge Bergoglio (later Pope Francis).
Those here on a pilgrimage will certainly want to stop in at the Church of St. Thomas of Villanova, which was commissioned by Pope Alexander VII Chigi in the 1600s and designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Don't let the seemingly simple façade fool you – the inside of this stately gem of Baroque architecture features stunning altar pieces, and the walls were adorned with a special type of white 'marble dust'.
Quaint Castel Gandolfo (about 45 minutes by train from Roma Termini) has plenty to offer even for those not hoping to run into the Pope reciting the Angelus in the main square. While the town might be receiving renewed attention thanks to its most famous summer resident, the Roman Castles area is undoubtedly much more than a papal playground. Romans have long retreated to the verdant string of villages in the surrounding Castelli Romani because of the cooler climate in the hills and the proximity to lakes, a welcome refuge from the sweltering, tourist-clogged streets of the capital.
Kayak tours are a lovely way to explore nearby Lake Albano, providing a unique look at various points of interest, such as the former villa of Emperor Domitian, ruins from battles that took place on the lake during ancient Roman times and even a secret 'diving board' used by popes to stealthily slip into the lake from the summer residence above. When the weather permits, the tour concludes with a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear waters of the lake.
Another famous village – there are 17 'Roman Castles' in total – is Frascati, home to its namesake white wine. Given its proximity to Rome, Frascati is popular with day-trippers who take the train here (a 30-minute journey from Rome) to stroll through the town's alleyways and explore its gracious villas and gardens. Wine tasting or lunch at a fraschetta (a local tavern) is a must, to savour the crisp, light-bodied wine born of the area's mineral-rich volcanic soil. Rome's acclaimed pasta dishes – cacio e pepe, gricia, carbonara and amatriciana – can be found here as well, but there are also many special soups and pastas rooted in local peasant tradition, along with the famed porchetta (roasted pig).
The town of Genzano di Roma (an hour by train from Rome) is a bit further south and closer to the Castelli Romani's second lake – Lake Nemi, a small, round volcanic body of water. Genzano is known for its centuries-old June flower festival, called the ' Infiorata ', during which colourful petals are painstakingly placed to create vibrant patterns carpeting the main street.
Many of the towns border on the Regional Park of the Castelli Romani, making it easy to escape into nature. The park boasts a large swath of woodland, with a variety of hiking trails and scenic picnic spots. When in the area, try the fragoline di Nemi, heart-shaped strawberries that were revered by the ancient Romans who believed them to be the sweet tears of Venus. Don't miss the chance to bring home a sampling of local strawberry jam and Fragolino liqueur – they make for fitting souvenirs from the region.
How to do it
How to get there
Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Rome Ciampino from around £80 return. The airline operates about 30 flights per week. Castel Gandolfo is only a 15-minute taxi ride from Ciampino and about 45 minutes by train from the centre of Rome. A week-long car hire from Europcar for a mid-sized sedan averages around £300.
Where to stay
Hotel Castelgandolfo ([phone]; hotelcastelgandolfo.com) has doubles from £120 per night, including breakfast.