French mountaineers pioneer new Golden Peak route
In early June, French alpinist Mathieu Maynadier and Pakistan's Muizzuddinn pioneered a new route up the East Ridge of Spantik (7,027 m), locally known as Golden Peak, in the Karakoram range.
The ascent, which took place from June 2 to 7, was the first major mountain opening in Pakistan led by a local climber. The new 1,800 m route, dubbed 'Zindabad (long live)", is graded M5 A1 at an 80° incline. It is expected to be one of this summer's most notable climbs in the country.
The duo spent 20 days acclimatising at the base camp, waiting out 10 days of poor weather before establishing higher camps at 5,200m and 5,800m. Despite the risk, they took advantage of a weather opening, enduring fresh snow and unstable slabs over five days. Just metres shy of the summit, they aborted due to a dangerous wind slab, but celebrated the route's completion as a symbol of national pride.
Their descent took 36 hours via the normal route, with a final bivouac at 5,800 m. For Muizz, this achievement is the first phase of a wider goal: to become Pakistan's first UIAGM-certified mountain guide.
Muizz plans to begin his training in France this summer. If successful, he will become certified by 2029, and is aiming to help revive domestic guide programmes and training schools in Pakistan.
Spantik has a respected history of technical climbs, notably the 2000 French–Slovenian ascent of its north face 'Golden Pillar'. Maynadier, already an advocate for Pakistani alpinism, has achieved several first ascents and ski descents in the region.
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Business Recorder
6 hours ago
- Business Recorder
Kartal wins nine games in a row to claim biggest win of her life
LONDON: Britain's Sonay Kartal surged into the fourth round of Wimbledon for the first time on Friday with a remarkable turnaround performance against French qualifier Diane Parry as she won nine games in a row to come from 4-1 down to triumph 6-4 6-2. Parry, who hammered 12th seed Diana Shnaider in the last round, was in control early on but the Briton eventually got to grips with the challenge and, roared on by a partisan Number One court crowd, began an unstoppable comeback that secured the first set and put her 4-0 up in the second. Parry's spirit seemed to have disappeared along with her accuracy and the 23-year-old battling Briton took full advantage with a relentless forehand fusillade to claim the biggest victory of her injury-hit career. 'I think everyone saw that I started off pretty nervous – it's definitely the biggest and most meaningful stage that I've played on,' Kartal said. 'I've got a lot of people here and I really wanted to do them proud and do myself proud.' When Kartal upset 20th seed Jelena Ostapenko in the first round on Monday it launched a great day for Britain with an Open Era record seven players advancing, and another three on Tuesday. Djokovic passes Muller test to reach Wimbledon second round Four days later only her and Emma Raducanu and Cameron Norrie remain, and the former US Open champion and regular junior rival of Kartal's faces a huge challenge to also progress to the fourth when she faces world number one Aryna Sabalenka later. For a while it did not look as if Kartal would have a chance of making a first Grand Slam last 16 appearance as Parry made a composed and confident start. The Frenchwoman's low, skiddy backhand slice proved really challenging for the diminutive Briton and she was looking in command at 4-1 up. Parry then saved three break points in the sixth game, only for Kartal to succeed on a fourth and that proved the turning point of the entire match. With the crowd loving the fightback she looked visibly lifted and more mobile and set about a remarkable run of games, hitting harder and deeper and forcing Parry into ever-more desperate defence. In a flash she had claimed the set and was 4-0 up in the second and, even though Parry eventually stemmed the flow, it was merely a delay in proceedings. Kartal has enjoyed a great year and will now move into the world's top 50, saying consistency has been the key. 'I was doing a lot of good things on the practice court and I was playing with a lot of freedom and I always trusted that eventually it would transfer onto the match court,' she said. 'With every match, every week that I'm playing the bigger events, I'm growing more confident as a player and as a person.'
Express Tribune
a day ago
- Express Tribune
Five climbers summit Nanga Parbat
Five international climbers from Europe have successfully summited Nanga Parbat (8,125 metres), marking the first ascents of Pakistan's summer climbing season. Czech mountaineers Marek Novotny and Ondra Hlasny reached the summit of the world's ninth-highest peak via the standard route on the Diamir face on June 26 at 12:00 pm, according to Ghulam Muhammad, General Manager of Blue Sky Treks and Tours, the expedition's organisers. He confirmed the duo had safely descended and was returning home. Meanwhile, renowned German alpinist David Johannes Goettler, along with French ski mountaineers Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein, reached the summit from the Rupal side on June 24. The trio ascended via the historic Schell route, pioneered by Austrian climber Hanns Schell in 1976. Goettler made a dramatic descent by paraglider, while his French companions skied down from the summit, accomplishing two groundbreaking feats: the first ski descent from Nanga Parbat's summit and the first descent on skis from the challenging Rupal face.
Express Tribune
a day ago
- Express Tribune
Pakistan secures five medals at Asian Junior Squash Championship
Listen to article Pakistan's young squash players continued their impressive run at the 32nd Asian Junior Squash Championship in South Korea, with five players advancing to the semi-finals across various categories, ensuring the country at least five medals in the prestigious regional event. According to updates received from South Korea, five of the six Pakistani players who had qualified for the quarter-finals emerged victorious in their respective matches, underlining the nation's growing depth in junior squash. In the Boys' Under-19 category, third seed Abdullah Nawaz produced a clinical performance to defeat Hong Kong's Wang W in straight sets, winning 11-4, 11-6, 11-6 to book his place in the last four. Top seed Nauman Khan progressed to the semi-finals of the Boys' Under-15 event with a comfortable 3-0 victory over India's Harshal. His compatriot Ahmed Rehan Khalil also impressed in the same category, easing past Malaysia's Arman by the same margin. Read More: Pakistan cricketers slip in latest ICC Test rankings In the Boys' Under-13 event, top-seeded Suhail Irfan outclassed India's Abhi Yadav in a dominant display, sealing a straight-games win with scores of 11-2, 11-3, 11-3. Meanwhile, in the Girls' Under-13 category, ninth seed Mahnoor Ali stunned India's Anika 3-0 to reach the semi-finals. However, Pakistan's hopes in the Girls' Under-15 event came to an end after Sehrish Ali was beaten by Malaysia's Siti in straight games. Earlier in the competition, nine out of eleven Pakistani players had advanced from the opening round, with six making it to the quarter-finals. Among those eliminated at the quarter-final stage were Anas Ali Shah (Boys' Under-19), Muhammad Umair Arif (Boys' Under-17), and Mehwish Ali (Girls' Under-17). Yahya Khan (Boys' Under-17) and Muhammad Mustafa Khan (Boys' Under-13) were knocked out in the first round. The championship, which features top junior talent from across Asia, continues later this week with semi-final action, where Pakistani players will be looking to convert their strong performances into podium finishes.
