How to dress better for the planet

The Guardian

2 days ago

Last year, in the interest of sustainable fashion, I joined a pledge only to buy five new pieces of clothing. Despite thinking of myself as someone who doesn't really shop, I found the restriction a real chore. Unless you're buying vintage or spending a fortune, the dilemma of how to engage in the fun and newness of fashion without contributing to its environmental footprint is, it turns out, nearly universal: data in a new report reveals 74% of people want to dress more sustainably but most don't know how to go about it.
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The report – released by multi-brand retailer Zalando – found that 39% of consumers find sustainable garments too expensive and 27% say they are hard to identify. It's little wonder sustainable fashion remains plagued by vague claims, convoluted supply chains and a call-out culture that's left brands reluctant to promote initiatives to customers on the lookout for greenwashing.
'People are more engaged than they're often given credit for,' says Pascal Brun, Zalando's vice-president of sustainability and D&I. Almost two decades after sustainable fashion entered mainstream discourse, most people have some awareness of the industry's environmental impact – carbon emissions, pollution of waterways, deforestation, microplastics, waste. They probably also know these ill effects are exacerbated by the sheer volume of product being made every year (somewhere between 80 and 150bn garments) and the increasing proportion derived from fossil-fuel based fabrics (polyester accounted for 57% of all fibres in 2024).
The rising popularity of ultra-cheap, ultra-fast fashion brands such as Shein and Temu (the targets of French legislation passed last week) brings the dilemma into stark focus. Yet this new data reveals, despite everyone's best intentions, it's not clear where and how to shop with a reduced impact. So, how does one buy reasonably priced, sustainable clothes?
The starting point is, of course, vintage – sales of which happily, according to ThredUp's Annual Resale Report, grew by 15% in 2024. Data from eBay suggests users search for 'vintage' items more than 1,200 times a minute. But given the constraints on sizing and the time required to sift through racks, second-hand clothing isn't always practical.
When buying new clothes, context is important, says author and fashion educator Andrea Cheong. 'What is financially accessible to people is going to vary, as is what is sustainable.' So rather than focusing on brands, she suggests buying the best quality of the item your budget can accommodate. That way, you will actually wear it. To assess quality, apply three criteria. First, buy nothing that contains a synthetic or semi-synthetic blend. Second, the garment must look as good on the inside as it does on the outside (small stitches, neat seams, non-synthetic lining). And third, it must be fit for purpose (leggings that are supportive enough for a workout, coats that keep you warm, pockets deep and sturdy enough to hold your phone).
Detail is your friend. Garments made from a single, natural fibre (100% cotton, linen or wool) are easier to recycle and generally more durable. If a brand is using sustainable materials, they will tell you about it – and provide the nitty-gritty; specificity is the enemy of greenwashing. Look for third-party certifications that promote safe use of chemicals including Bluesign and Oeko-Tex, or regenerative or organic farming practices such as the Responsible Wool Standard and the Global Organic Textile Standard (Gots), or the inclusion of recycled content like the Global Recycled Standard.
Similarly, if a brand has engaged suppliers with closed-loop systems (to recycle water and chemicals) and renewable energy, who are paying a living wage, they will include this detail, as well – most notably – as the location of the factory on their website. This is a detail that reveals a level of trust, transparency and confidence. In addition, brands get bonus points for having repair, rental and resale programmes.
When building a sustainable wardrobe, it's important to take a long view. Cheong suggests reinvesting in the clothes you already own by having them professionally altered or learning how to repair them. Sojo, for example work with brands such as M&S, Reiss and Selfridges.
But this isn't always practical. When it truly is time to buy something new, there are several UK-based brands producing garments that are gentle both on your bank balance and the planet. Here are a few:
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Yes Friends
This UK-based brand had one goal when they were founded: to make sustainable clothing affordable. Now they produce a range of organic cotton and linen garments in fairtrade and Gots-certified factories in India that are solar-power assisted, one of which recycles 100% of its wastewater. They have also pioneered a bonus scheme for garment workers to ensure they are well paid. T-shirts start at £12, linen dresses are from £38.
Nearly New Cashmere
Based in the UK, this brand produces a range of recycled cashmere vests (£95) and wraps (£85). These are sold alongside a wide range of restored second-hand cashmere T-shirts, jumpers and hoodies (£34–£280).
Rapanui
A surf-inspired brand producing a range of everyday clothing for men, women and children. Their materials are natural, regenerative or recycled and Oeko-Tex certified. The clothes are produced in a factory in India powered by renewable energy and closed-loop systems. Graphics are printed on demand in a facility on the Isle of Wight. They also offer a takeback programme aimed at reuse and recycling. The brands T-shirts start at £18 but are available in multi-packs for even better value. Jackets start at £60 and hoodies at £35.
Noctu
Noctu's simple, organic cotton pyjamas are manufactured in England. The range includes shorts, T-shirt and jumpsuits for men, women and kids that are minimal and stylish enough to wear out of the house. Shorts and T-shirts start at £35, dresses and jumpsuits cost up to £75.
Kohr
This made-to-order brand manufactures everything in-house from mostly undyed organic cotton, linen and bamboo sourced from Oeko-Tex-certified suppliers. Prices start at £45 for a T-shirt and go up to £205 for shirts and £130 for joggers. The prices, they say, reflect their commitment to 'macro trends that last at least 10 years'. That's fashion speak for items that won't go out of style.
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