Malaysian couple showcases country's textile legacy through seni tampal selit

The Star

25-04-2025

Surrounded by swatches of batik, songket and soft cotton, a woman hunches over a vibrant piece of artwork, gently tucking a strip of fabric into a groove. Nearby, her husband adjusts a design template, while their daughter delicately places a tiny accessory on a doll-sized traditional costume. It's all in a day's work in this cosy studio in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, but theirs is no ordinary patchwork.
Latifah Hamzah, 58, and her husband Raffly Nann, 59, are the masterminds behind seni tampal selit, or non-stitch patchwork – an intricate artform they developed by localising the Japanese technique of Kimekomi. To them, this is more than just a craft; it's a cultural movement, a family legacy and a heartfelt tribute to Malaysia's rich multicultural diversity.
'Seni tampal selit or non-stitch patchwork isn't just about art, it's a way to showcase Malaysia's heritage, especially the country's multiculturalism and unity,' says Raffly.
Kimekomi is an ancient Japanese technique that inspired Latifah and her husband to start seni tampal selit. The couple's creative journey began over a decade ago when Latifah visited her sister who lived in Tokyo. While exploring the city, she stumbled upon an underground crafts centre, where elderly artisans practised a fading 18th-century Japanese technique called Kimekomi – used to dress dolls by tucking fabric into curved grooves.
'I was intrigued,' Latifah recalls. 'So, I bought a few do-it-yourself kits to bring home. But I didn't do anything with them until after retirement. Then, my husband and I started experimenting.'
What began as a post-retirement hobby quickly grew into a newfound passion for the couple who saw an opportunity to adapt the technique for something closer to home – Malaysian traditional attire.
They redesigned the process, replacing the grooved dolls with foam boards, eliminating the need for frames or sewing, and incorporating locally-sourced fabrics like batik and songket.
The result was seni tampal selit, a uniquely Malaysian version of the Kimekomi technique, where storytelling meets textile art.
Latifah and Raffly started operating out of their little studio, Queen L's Crafts in Galeri Kekwa at the Kuala Lumpur Craft Complex.
While most of their materials are newly sourced from local textile markets, Latifah says they often receive old garments from clients wanting to preserve sentimental pieces.
One artwork, for instance, features fabric from a 75-year-old sarong belonging to her sister-in-law's husband, worn when he was just seven. Another uses real sari fabric for Indian traditional dress figures.
'Fabrics hold memory,' she explains. 'Instead of letting them deteriorate in the cupboard, we give them a new lease of life.'
From start to finish, each step of the artwork is a meticulous process – from choosing fabrics, planning the layout and drawing outlines, to sometimes adding cotton or foam to create depth and contours, and using simple tools to tuck, fold and layer fabrics into elegant, three-dimensional designs.
Some pieces take a few hours. Others, like their elaborate 'Unity Dance' featuring traditional dancers from different ethnicities, take months, adds Raffly.
Non-stitch patchwork art showing dancers in traditional Malaysian costumes from the different ethnicities.
The couple's story is as intertwined as the threads in the fabrics they work with. They met more than 30 years ago through mutual friends – at a swimming pool.
'I was joking with my friend to introduce me to a beautiful girl, and she brought Latifah,' Raffly laughs. 'It was love at first sight. I thought I saw an ikan duyung (beautiful mermaid).'
Latifah giggles and interrupts in a play of words, 'More like an ikan dugong (sea cow)!'
Now married for 32 years with five children, their home has become a hub for creativity. Their three daughters help with the business, from drawing templates to guiding workshops.
'My youngest is an animator, so she draws the outlines,' says Latifah. 'The others help with product design and training. But the two boys, they're into gaming!'
Their family dynamics gives their enterprise a warmth that's felt during their workshops, where laughter and learning go hand-in-hand.
Latifah doing a seni tampal selit artwork of a cat.
What makes seni tampal selit special is its accessibility. No sewing skills are required, making it ideal for corporate team building sessions, schools or anyone seeking a meditative hobby.
Classes are offered one-on-one or in groups, and DIY kits – complete with materials – as well as crafting tools, are available for those who want to try it at home.
'Seni tampal selit is perfect for beginners,' Latifah says. 'No stitching, just tucking. But there's a lot of creativity involved – choosing the right fabrics, positioning the patterns, selecting accessories.'
'We've had participants from all walks of life,' adds Raffly. 'Even a team from Tokyo University came but they didn't know the technique had its origins in Japan!'
Students often walk away surprised by the emotional depth of the process and the relaxation effect it delivers.
'It's very zen,' says 47-year-old Zita Lau, a participant from Miri, Sarawak who tried the craft with her colleagues during a team building session.
'You're focused, creative, and relaxed. It's like therapy, but all the little decisions on the details matter – like the pleats on the skirt and the direction of the fabric's weave.'
'The difference between beginners like us and our instructor Latifah, is she is able to look at the fabric and immediately know where to position it. That comes with experience and that makes a whole lot of difference,' she says.
'To make certain parts of the figure look three-dimensional, we tuck cotton or foam inside. It looks simple, but a lot of thought goes into it,' she adds.
Latifah (right) teaching Lau how to do her seni tampal selit artwork.
Through their do-at-home model, Latifah and Raffly also provide income opportunities for single mothers, retirees and the B40 community.
They can come and learn how to do it, then take the materials home to work at their own pace. They will get paid per piece – subject to Latifah's keen eye for quality control.
As she inspects a newly-completed piece, her fingers brushing over the texture with quiet satisfaction, she smiles. 'I only put a piece up for sale when I'm truly happy with it.'
But beyond the beauty of their creations, Latifah and Raffly are driven by deeper intentions.
'We want our art to have a purpose and for it to relate to the community around us,' they say.
The couple collaborates with NGOs and conservation groups to produce themed artworks – like a piece on sea turtles to raise awareness on wildlife extinction and conservation and using proceeds from cat-themed designs to feed the strays. Tradition meets innovation
Traditional Malay women's attire is depicted through seni tampal selit using songket and kain tenun.
'To me, this isn't just about making pretty pictures,' says Raffly. 'It's about telling stories, showcasing our culture and ­giving back to the community.'
Their artwork is more than ornamental – it's educational. From baju kebaya and cheongsam to the Iban warrior's attire and the Kadazan's baju Sumazau, each figure is rendered with real fabric and textural details, showing how Malaysians dress.
'While we can't always put real people in these costumes, through this art, future generations can still see them, feel the texture and understand their heritage and culture,' he explains.
'For young people who've never seen these clothes worn in real life, this is a way to keep our cultural legacy alive,' adds Latifah.
Despite its deep roots in heritage, seni tampal selit is also evolving.
Some customers prefer functional items over just-for-display artwork, so the couple has adapted their designs into journals, tote bags and other souvenirs.
The items have even made their way into Tourism Malaysia's hands, and graced gift shops at landmarks like the Petronas Twin Towers and onboard Star Cruises.
An image of Darth Vader, turned into an artwork through seni tampal selit. The couple has also created wedding portraits and even pop-culture art – like a batik Darth Vader and Yoda from Star Wars, in collaboration with a local digital painter.
Their work continues to combine passion, precision and play.
Each fold of cloth, each pleat and tuck, is a quiet celebration of Malaysia's multicultural unity – one that both respects ­tradition and embraces innovation.
'And why not?' Latifah says. 'Art should be fun and it's about life, and life is always about growing and evolving,' she concludes.