Toyama governor declares ambition to make prefecture sushi capital of Japan

Japan Today

25-05-2025

By Masayoshi Sakamoto
What comes to mind when you think of Japan's most iconic cuisine?
For many, the answer is likely sushi.
In a 2023 survey by Norinchukin Bank targeting inbound tourists, sushi was named the 'most delicious meal' visitors had during their stay in Japan.
If Japan is sushi's global home, where within Japan does it truly belong? For many foreign visitors, few connect it with one specific place. After all, high-quality sushi can be enjoyed all over the country.
Still, one local government is hoping to change that. As part of a bold regional branding project, Toyama Prefecture has declared itself Japan's new sushi capital.
Toyama declares itself the sushi capital of Japan
Governor Nitta announces the Sushi Capital project.
Image: Toyama Prefecture
Sushi — or more precisely nigiri-zushi (slices of raw fish atop seasoned rice) was born in Tokyo (then Edo) in the early 1800s. So it came as a surprise when, at the end of 2023, the Toyama Prefectural Government's Public Relations and Branding Promotion Office held a press conference to declare itself the new capital of the sushi world.
At the time, I happened to be visiting a famous sushi restaurant in Tokyo. I asked the chef, 'Toyama is calling itself the capital of sushi now. What do you think?' He simply scoffed and said nothing more.
Still, Toyama's claim isn't without merit. There's logic behind the bold move.
One of the most crucial components of good sushi is the seafood. Governor Hachiro Nitta explains that Toyama Bay — often called 'a natural live fish tank' — is home to around 500 species of fish. This rich marine biodiversity, he says, is what makes Toyama's sushi so appealing.
The sea floor of Toyama Bay plunges steeply close to shore, meaning fishing grounds are near the ports. This allows fish to be brought in fresh, sometimes caught just offshore using set nets, a traditional method well-suited to catching sushi-grade seafood.
Toyama also ranks high in rice production. When measured by production per unit of suitable farmland, the prefecture ranks among Japan's best. Despite having limited arable land, its rice-growing output is top-class.
Governor Nitta continues that the real appeal of Toyama sushi lies in the skill of chefs, who identify the perfect timing to capture both the crunchy texture of the seafood and the peak of its umami flavor.
Toyama's sushi stands out not only for its ingredients but also for the craftsmanship that brings out the best in both. Nitta asserts that no other place offers quite the same experience.
Inside Toyama's 10-year branding campaign
Toyama sushi: A treasure trove of fresh seafood like firefly squid and glass shrimp.
Image: Toyama Tourism Organization
It's worth repeating: Toyama's self-declaration is part of a broader. long-term branding project.
As the head of the Sushi Branding Promotion Headquarters, Governor Nitta is overseeing a 10-year project with two major goals:
A 90% recognition rate outside Toyama associating the prefecture with sushi.
A 90% rate of residents willing to recommend Toyama sushi to friends outside the prefecture.
The initiative includes PR videos, promotional events, partnerships with local crafts and talent development in both sushi-making and aquaculture. In a playful twist, Toyama has incorporated sushi-themed designs into its official business cards. When handing them out, prefectural staff often share their favorite sushi toppings as an icebreaker.
The campaign has already generated buzz. Nitta notes that more local restaurants are promoting sushi as their signature dish. Local companies have created items like sushi-themed pins, sake cups and other crafts using their project's logo. Also reportedly in development is the opening of a sushi chef training school led by the private sector.
In February alone, media exposure was valued at over ¥50 million (approximately US$330,000), reinforcing the project's impact.
The Toyama sushi challenge: aging chefs and rising rivals
In Toyama, many sushi chefs are aging, and successors are in short supply.
Image: shige hattori/Pixta
Still, whether the campaign will achieve its goal remains uncertain.
There were no universally accepted facts supporting Toyama's 'sushi capital of Japan' claim before this initiative. Toyama historically lags behind.
According to Terutoshi Hibino's 'Sushi Dictionary,' nigiri sushi, which originated in Edo in the early 1800s, spread across Japan in the early to mid-1900s. The Toyama Prefectural Library estimates Toyama's sushi history is about 100 years behind Tokyo's.
There are also demographic challenges, as well. In Toyama, many sushi chefs are aging, and successors are in short supply. A prefectural survey of local sushi restaurants found that about half of them had chefs aged 60 or older, and only about 20% had confirmed successors.
Meanwhile, competition is emerging. Kitakyushu City began its own sushi-themed branding strategy in 2025.
Regarding the key strength of fresh seafood, Japan is surrounded by excellent fishing grounds, and rival regions such as Hokkaido and neighboring Ishikawa Prefecture have competitive seafood products that make it difficult to claim superiority.
This decade-long branding project also coincides with Governor Nitta's term in office. While the current administration appears stable, a change in leadership could jeopardize the project's continuity.
Beyond sushi: Toyama's vision for regional revival
Governor Nitta believes that recognitionof Toyama Prefecture will raise locals pride, revitalize the regional economy and enhance community life.
Image: hiroko/Pixta
While there are many points to consider, Nitta says he aims first to introduce Toyama's appeal through accessible sushi, then increase interest in the prefecture, and ultimately expand the number of people who return regularly and develop deep connections with the region.
He believes that recognition and appreciation of Toyama will raise residents' sense of self-worth, contribute to the revitalization of the regional economy and enhance community life — ultimately improving well-being.
Whether increased recognition through sushi can enrich local life remains to be seen, but the project is already underway. So far, reactions from residents have been mixed: some positive, some negative and some indifferent.
Is Toyama worth the claim it's making? That's something that each visitor will have to decide for themselves.
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