Expert warns not to use these two cleansing bestsellers after a lash lift

Independent

5 days ago

Nothing quite compares to the feeling of a fresh lash lift. You look (and feel) bright eyed, and your make-up appears half way there before you've even had your morning coffee. Typically, a lash lift will last between six and eight weeks but, something you might not know, is that every product you apply – from your cleanser to your mascara – has an effect on its longevity.
If you've never had a lash lift – also known as LVL (length, volume and lift) – the process involves pushing the eyelashes up and around a silicone shield before applying a lifting balm which breaks down the structure of the hair. After this, a fixing solution is used to set the lashes and, often, a tint is also applied for a bolder finish.
The full treatment usually takes an hour and, when you've expended that much time and money (anywhere from £30 to £100), you want to make the most of it. So I spoke to expert lash artist, Emmy Clayton, to discover how we can use our skincare and make-up to ensure a resilient and long-lasting lift and curl.
Meet the expert
Emmy Clayton, also known as Emmy Creates, is a lash and brow artist with 14 years of experience. Trained by Aussie lash and brow brand Elleebana, she now trains new artists and has worked on behind-the-scenes glam for numerous beauty campaigns, such as YSL and L'Oréal Paris. Not to mention she has a long list of celebrity clientele, including Made in Chelsea 's Sophie Habboo and Lottie Moss.
Cleansers to avoid after a lash lift
According to Clayton, the key to mastering proper lash care is to think of it like hair. 'Conditioner is great, but too much weighs it down,' she explains. This means that certain oil-rich formulas can accelerate the speed at which your lifted curl begins to relax, especially when combined with additional elements like steam and heat.
With this in mind, Clayton tells us which cleansers she might avoid post-lift, plus the ones she loves for a safe lash wash and scrub-free eye make-up removal.
While Clayton sings the praises of the cult Elemis pro-collagen cleansing balm (£49, Boots.com) for non-lifted lashes, complimenting how it 'leaves the skin feeling nourished', she advises that regular use around the eye area can gradually soften the curl of treated lashes, because of the balm's elderberry and starflower oils.
Similarly, while the Body Shop's camomile sumptuous make-up cleansing butter (£13, Thebodyshop.com) is 'seriously effective', Clayon suggests steering clear with lifted lashes given how it's 'rich in shea butter and multiple plant oils'.
It's worth noting that oils aren't inherently bad for the lashes, but continuous use of them can be. As Clayton puts it, the use of oils in our skincare routine (think: thick eye creams and, as above, cleansing balms) won't prompt a full lash lift reversal, but rather a gradual curl drop. The specific culprits? 'Excessive amounts of heavy oils like castor or coconut, combined with heat or steam,' she says.
Lash lift-suitable cleansers
Thankfully, with the beauty industry growing exponentially, there are plenty of alternatives to suit every skin type and budget. Clayton hails the Glossier milky oil dual-phase waterproof make-up remover (£18, Sephora.co.uk) as her go-to, as it 'removes eye make-up (even waterproof mascara) without the need for rubbing or soaking the lashes in heavy oil'.
If you're looking for something more affordable, she also recommends the L'Oréal Paris eye and lip express make-up remover (£5.30, Notino.co.uk). Clayton applauds how 'it doesn't leave behind a thick oily residue, making it a great everyday option post-lash lift'.
Lastly, Vichy's purete thermale waterproof eye make-up remover (£6.96, Facethefuture.co.uk) is a great option if you suffer sensitivity around the eyes or wear contacts, as it uses conditioning arginine and thermal spring water to keep things effective yet irritation-free. 'It's loved for its lightweight feel and is a reliable post-lift option that doesn't compromise results,' Clayton says.
Why has my lash lift gone wrong?
It's not just cleansers that can effect your lash lift results. if you've ever suffered crumpled or kinked lashes just a few days or weeks after your treatment, 'it likely comes down to how the treatment was done,' claims Clayton. She lists four factors at play here:
Shield size: 'A common reason for lashes bending during grow-out is when your tech uses a shield that's too small to create a super-dramatic curl,' says Clayton. While she acknowledges the initial appeal of this method, she adds that 'most lashes grow pretty straight, so when new growth comes in, it doesn't tend to follow the exaggerated 90-degree angle of the fresh lift, leading to that 'L-shaped' kink or bend where the natural growth meets the lifted lash.'
Lash length and thickness: A consequence of natural hair growth cycles and one that's outside your lash tech's control, Clayton explains that not all lashes are the same length or thickness, as some are baby lashes that haven't fully grown out. 'If those get caught up and lifted with the longer ones they can sometimes crumple or curl unevenly as they grow out,' she explains.
Lash mapping: 'Every lash map I do is tailored, not just for the lift, but for the best grow-out possible,' states Clayton. Lash mapping refers to the customising of shields, and the placement of the lashes and lifting/fixing solutions. Elaborating on this, Clayton recommends asking your lash artist if they have multiple shield styles. 'When it's done right, your lift should grow out soft and seamless, not spiky or kinked,' she says.
Damage prevention: The first 48 hours following a lash lift are crucial. With this in mind, Clayton flags that 'sleeping face-down can crumple or bend your lashes.' Her solution? Switching to a silk pillowcase and using a 3D contoured sleep mask. Specifically, she recommends Drowsy's silk pillowcase (£59, Drowsysleepco.com) and lash cocoon eye mask (£79, Cultbeauty.co.uk).
What mascara can you use with a lash lift?
If everything from your cleanser to your pillowcase can effect the longevity of a lash lift, then a mascara – which gets in-between and all around the lashes – undoubtedly has a part to play. For many people, getting a lash lift and tint bypasses the need for mascara. However, if you like to keep your eye make-up dramatic, you'll be pleased to know there are plenty of LVL-approved options.
'This mascara is my number one obsession,' confesses Clayton, referring to Glossier's lash slick lift and lengthening mascara (£20, Spacenk.com). 'I love the brush, I love the finish and it just works perfectly with a lash lift as there's no clumping, no heaviness, and it removes so easily without compromising the curl.'
Alternatively, Victoria Beckham's future lash (£32, Selfridges.com) is another great option that's been designed with lash health in mind. Clayton likes how it uses panthenol to strengthen and 'removes cleanly with just warm water.' No risk of dragging or lash fall-out.
What mascara should you avoid?
When it comes to which mascaras to avoid after having a lash lift, their compatibility will largely depend on how easy they are to remove.
While Too Faced's better than sex mascara (£28, Boots.com) is a great pick if you're after volume and impact, Clayton says it can be 'a bit too much for lifted lashes'. 'The formula is quite thick and tends to clump, which can take away from that clean, defined curl,' she explains. 'It also has a tendency to flake and needs a good bit of effort to remove, which isn't ideal post-lift.'
Similarly, Clayton loves Benefit's they're real! lengthening mascara (£27, Boots.com) on natural lashes owing to its intense staying power but it's one she recommends avoiding if you've recently had an LVL. 'It's a bit of a mission to remove,' she says 'which often means more rubbing than you'd like'.