How to spend a weekend in Lisbon, Europe's most photogenic capital

Yahoo

08-02-2025

Lisbon is having a moment. It is the place on everyone's lips and its breezy sea views, glossy tiled facades and red roofs feature on many an Instagram feed. The food surprises, with a depth far beyond the famous pastéis de nata (custard tarts) that are so known and loved. There is history; from the 12th-century Moorish castle that dominates the skyline to the magnificent 16th-century Manueline monastery of Jerónimos, and the bombastic 18th-century heart of Lisbon, built after so much of the city was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.
There is authentic, genuine and welcoming hospitality; and a wave of new and affordable hotels along cobbled streets and flanking bougainvillea-clad squares, all of which brim with a sense of place. For Lisbon, unlike so much of the world, has not gone global: it remains resolutely Portuguese, looking out to sea, with its back to the rest of Europe and its identity intact. Here's how to spend 48 hours in this exciting city.
For more Lisbon inspiration, see our guides to the city's best hotels, restaurants, bars, shopping and attractions.
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Essential information: what to know before you go?
February sees the opening of the Port of Lisbon's Maritime Stations to the public. This means access to 14 carefully restored 20th-century Almada Negreiros murals – important examples of the Portuguese modernism style and the largest collection of its kind in the country. A nine-room interpretive centre in the Maritime station of Alcântara will provide visitors with extensive information on the murals and maritime history of the port of Lisbon from the 1940s to the present day, as well as the opportunity to visit murals in other maritime stations.
In time for Easter, Museu de Arte Contemporânea Armando Martins (MACAM) – the first museum and five-star hotel hybrid concept of its kind in Europe – will open its doors in the 18th-century Palácio Condes da Ribeira Grande. Set to be an exciting addition to Lisbon's cultural scene, the private collection of MACAM founder, Armando Martins, will showcase more than 600 works of art dating from the late 19th century to the present-day, and including pieces from international and national artists such as Marina Abramović, Paula Rego and Amadeo de Sousa Cardozo. Artworks will be integrated throughout the 64 hotel rooms, the restaurant and even in the desacrilised 18th century chapel. The latter has been restored and will function as an arts bar with a programme of cultural events.
Lovers of street festivals should aim to be in Lisbon on June 12 when the ancient 'Popular Saints' parade kicks off. In honour of St. John, St Antony and St, Peter residents take to the streets to celebrate. Decorations adorn the city's old neighbourhoods, with traditional food of grilled sardines served.
Later in the month, Lisbon will host Europride – marking a first for the capital – promising a big parade on June 21, with debates, seminars, stage shows and parties. From June 14 to 22, Praca do Comércio will be the stage for Arraial Lisboa Pride, where DJs will perform amongst the open-air bars and concerts.
Begin with a food-focused walking tour which puts the city into context as you go. Highly recommended are Culinary Backstreets, who will take you into an authentic, hidden Lisbon in which generations of families have been salting cod or preparing chicken piri-piri over charcoal pits.
Lisbon's domed 19th-century market hall, the Mercado de Ribeira, was converted in 2014 into the Time Out Market, a buzzy food hall, which remains a huge draw. Some of Lisbon's best culinary experiences can be found here, from outlets of Michelin-starred chefs such as Henrique Sa Pessoa to exquisite melt-in-the mouth hams and unctuous Serra da Estrela cheese at Manteigaria Silva, a Lisbon institution. Or, lunch on sushi with a twist at Confraria.
The district of Bélem lies along the Tagus River and contains some of the capital's most interesting historical monuments, such as the Bélem Tower and the 16th-century Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. Take tram 15 or 127 from Praça do Comércio and hop off by the monastery. This extraordinarily ornate Manueline monastery was built from the taxes imposed on spices that flowed into the country, and contains the tomb of the great navigator Vasco de Gama, who led Portugal's Golden Age of Discovery, as well as that of writer Luis de Camões who chronicled them.
A few steps from here will bring you to the Café Pastéis de Bélem, named after the custard tarts (also known as pastéis de nata), which originated here in 1837 via a secret recipe from the monastery. They are still served today, warm from the oven and dusted with cinnamon.
Once you have explored the heritage in Bélem, take a walk through the lush Tropical Botanical Gardens, created in 1906, which stay open until 8pm in summer, 7pm in autumn and 6pm or 5pm as winter progresses. There are more than 600 species of exotic plants and trees, mainly from former Portuguese colonies, along with ducks and peacocks, a herbarium and a large lake.
Having worked up an appetite, you can neatly tie together the importance of spices in Portuguese history and their use in the contemporary kitchen. Book a table at one Michelin-starred restaurant Feitoria, which sits on the edge of the river at Bélem, and prepare to have your senses dazzled with dishes Malagueta, chocolate and goat milk by talented chef Andrea Cruz. Find more of the city's best restaurants in our guide.
Begin by climbing up the winding medieval streets of Lisbon's most ancient neighbourhood, Alfama, twisting up to the city's Moorish pinnacle, Castelo São Jorge. The dusk-orange walls of the ancient castle date back to the ninth century and dominate the city, being visible from almost every street. From here all of Lisbon is spread out beneath you.
Head to the Gulbenkian Museum, named after one of the 20th century's great philanthropists, Armenian Calouste Gulbenkian, who left much of his art and historic artefacts to his favoured city, Lisbon. Look out for priceless Hellenic vases, ancient Chinese porcelain and paintings by Rembrandt, Monet and Van Dyck. Find more of the city's top attractions in our guide.
Lunch at JNcQUOI, on Lisbon's main boulevard. It's perfect for people watching while enjoying the lobster hot dog.
Head out to Sintra and explore this extraordinary aristocratic hill town to the west of the city, a Neverland of fairytale palaces, manicured floral gardens and wild woodlands. Don't miss the gardens and palace of Monserrate. The train to Sintra departs from Rossio station every 20 minutes and takes about 40 minutes.
On the way back, stop at the busy seaside town of Cascais and indulge in an ice-cream at Santini, an institution in Portugal which has been going strong for 60 years. Walk it off by taking the Atlantic promenade to Estoril, where old palaces from times past stud the waterfront between tall palm trees.
Mini Bar, back in central Lisbon, is one of chef José Avillez's many restaurants. It's a gastro-barset within Bairro Avillez and perfect for those who enjoy culinary wizardry. The El Bulli olive is not what it seems; the ceviche of Algarve prawns comes served on a wedge of lime, and the golden egg is made from hummus. The informal atmosphere, affordable prices and friendly staff create a really fun evening out, plus on Fridays and Saturdays there's a live DJ. Find more of the city's best bars in our guide.
Príncipe Real is the neighbourhood of the moment. It's a hotspot for Lisbonites, with great bars (Pavilhão Chinês, aka The Chinese Pavilion), restaurants (A Cevicharia) and concept stores (Embaixada).
The most charming way to tick off a few sights is by riding the number 28 yellow tram as it rumbles through Lisbon's prettiest and most historic streets.
Get a map of the city, a pair of flat shoes to help with the cobbles, and walk everywhere. Lisbon is really not big and pounding the streets will get you under the skin of the place.
Head up to the rooftop terrace of Tivoli Avenida Liberdade, where at Seen you can enjoy the lively vibe and the excellent cocktails with Lisbon at your feet.
Coffee, originally from Brazil, is excellent here, whether at one of the 19th-century pavement kiosks or an elegant café, such as Café a Brasileira.
Lisbon is a year-round destination; rarely too hot or cold. Peak season in Lisbon is May and June and again in September and October. Winter is mild, normally in the teens, but mostly with blue skies. Rain tends to be in December and January. The first buds of spring usually appear around late February (May sees the purple Jacaranda trees dominating the boulevards) while the last puffs of the Sahara-warmed winds keep the mercury high well into November. August, is when the locals escape for the breeze of the Algarve and the tourists come en masse for Lisbon's guaranteed blue skies. But summer visitors could make the most of the lovely beaches within a 25 minute radius of Lisbon. If not, make sure your hotel has a pool.
Four Seasons Hotel Ritz's prime location near the main Avenida de Liberdade means easy access around the capital and to art museums such as the Gulbenkian nearby. Décor is grand – think chandeliers and huge flower displays on gilded furniture. Outside a sleek new pool awaits.
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Pink-walled Palacio Principe Real sits in Lisbon's leafiest district. Its 25 rooms overlook the red-roofed capital or the Palacio's lush gardens (think jacaranda and palm trees, vibrant bougainvillaea and wisteria climbing up its wrought iron staircase) which are inset with a sleek swimming pool. Awarded the city's best hotel rooms by Lisbon Insider.
From £432 per night.
Hotel Lisboa Plaza, is perfectly located just off Lisbon's main avenue, Avenida Liberdade, tucked away down a quiet sidestreet. Part of the charming Heritage Hotels group, this, like their other four hotels, is all about preserving the history and heritage of Lisbon. Filled with fascinating memorabilia from its 1950s heyday, this is a warm and welcoming hotel, suitable for families and pet owners too. Doubles from €120 including breakfast.
Portuguese olive oil is delicious. Many shops will allow you a tasting before you buy but to explore the abundant choice on offer, head to Manteigaria Silva, Lisbon's best delicatessen, where regional hams hang from the ceiling and cheese-filled cabinets tempt shoppers.
From the stable of 19th-century Vista Alegre come glass and crystal, porcelain and pottery, as relevant today as a century or so ago. Purchase at their shop in Chiado.
British Embassy: 00 351 21 392 4000; Rua de São Bernardo 33. Open Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm and 2.30-5.30pm
Emergency services: dial 112
Lisbon Tourist Office: 00 351 21 031 2819; visitlisboa.com, Praça do Comércio
If driving, the law requires you to have a fluorescent bib in the car. It's to be put on should you break down on a busy road and need to be visible to other motorists.
Currency: Euro
Telephone code: dial 00 351 for Portugal, then 21 for Lisbon, when telephoning from the UK
Time difference: none
Flight time: London to Lisbon is just over two hours
Mary has lived in southern Portugal for over 20 years. When she's in Lisbon, you can find her chatting with the chef at the latest culinary hotspot, checking out a new rooftop bar or sampling the newest hotel on the block.