Like flying business, with better views: On board NZ's thrilling scenic train

The Age

5 days ago

We pull out of Auckland's Strand Station at 7.45am, the occasion marked with a selection of hot drinks (barista quality) and glazed pastries – a prelude to the feast ahead. A light breakfast of vanilla chia pudding topped with blueberries, kiwi fruit and coconut arrives as we cross the extinct volcanic cone of the Orakei Basin.
Passing the fertile plains of Waikato – forever Hobbiton to Lord of the Rings fans – breakfast number two makes a surprise appearance – a wedge of fluffy frittata, plump beans in fresh tomato sauce and a rolled rasher of bacon, all paired with a generous top-up of Oyster Bay sparkling cuvee. I had naively assumed we had to choose between the two breakfast options, turns out we get both. Challenge accepted.
While passengers have the option of adding a pre- or post- holiday package through Great Journeys New Zealand, we're embracing the spirit of slow travel by stepping off in Taumarunui, taking the time to experience the volcanic heart of the Ruapehu region. A week later we'll get back on the train to complete the Scenic Plus service to Wellington.
But will we have time for lunch before getting off? It's my husband's only concern.
Tia makes sure we do, starting with a pre-lunch Church Road chardonnay, followed by rosemary and garlic sliced lamb served with quinoa salad and tzatziki. We even squeeze in a dessert of Whittaker's dark chocolate and Wellington coffee mouse just before pulling into Taumarunui.
After collecting our hire car, it's a short drive to the Morero marae (meeting house), where Fiona Kahukura Hadley-Chase receives us with a Powhiri welcome. With my husband walking behind me we enter the marae as Hadley-Chase calls her first karanga, her voice as powerful as the volcanic forces that have shaped the land.
I don't understand the words, but I know she is paying respects to her ancestors, sharing her family lineage and speaking of her connection to the land. Finally, we press noses and foreheads together in a traditional hongi, exchanging breath as a symbol of unity.
Hadley-Chase, who is also a Ruapehu District councillor, has just started Hinemaia Tours, offering visitors a way to engage with Maori culture in a personal and authentic way.
Later, we paddle a section of the Whanganui River before hiking to the historical fortification of Te Porere Redoubt where Hadley-Chase shares hard truths about the 1869 battle that took place between government troops and Maori leader Te Kooti.
Driving south to Ohakune, our stop for the next two nights, the landscape delivers a one-two-three punch. First, the craggy slopes of Mount Tongariro, then the perfect conical peak of Mount Ngauruhoe (stand-in for Mount Doom in Lord of the Rings) and finally, the towering presence of Mount Ruapehu, its broad shoulders still trimmed with snow.
Forming the backbone of the dual Heritage-listed Tongariro National Park these mountains would be rockstars on any world stage, knowing they are active volcanoes adds an extra spark.
In Ohakune I discover, in addition to their strong legs and hardy nature (a result of all that toiling up and down volcanoes) the people here also have a quirky side. It's the least you'd expect from a town known as New Zealand's carrot capital.
From an afternoon stroll halted by a 7.5 metre carrot (all vegetables lead to Carrot Adventure Park) to our nights in a sustainable straw bale tiny house (Pumice Tiny), to a giant chocolate-eclair from Johnny Nation's pastry shop (rumoured to sell 1100 eclairs daily), this is a community that hikes, bikes and skis to its own drum.
It's here on the slopes of Mount Ruapehu that the iconic 232-kilometre, Mountains to Sea Nga Ara Tuhona Great Ride begins. Right on time (and sporting highly questionable fitness levels) we set out to hike a 12.8-kilometre section of the newly-opened Te Ara Mangawhero loop trail, which follows old tramping trails and parts of historic tramways.
While new and expanded trails have the hikers and bikers cheering, snow enthusiasts are also smiling with the recent announcement of Pure Turoa as the new owners of the Turoa Ski Field. After a few marginal seasons (thanks COVID-19) sent the previous owners into voluntary administration, Pure Turoa has stepped in with the money and vision to reimagine Turoa as a versatile, year-round destination.
We round out our days at Whakapapa Village on the northern slopes of Mount Ruapehu, a convenient base for accessing the Whakapapa Ski Field and the hiking trails of the Tongariro National Park. The 17.6 kilometre Tama Lakes track skirts lakes so startling they could be filled with sapphires, while the Sky Waka gondola delivers us to a high tea at 2020-metres.
Back on the Northern Explorer the treats continue – a glass of bubbles to farewell Mount Ruapehu, an afternoon cheese platter while traversing a series of soaring viaducts and a nana nap through who-knows-where.
We head to the open-air viewing carriage to enjoy the tight curves, short tunnels and horse-shoe bend of the Raurimu spiral. This remarkable feat of engineering, envisioned in 1898 by Robert West Holmes and completed a decade later, was designed so the North Island Main Trunk could navigate the dramatic height difference as it descends from the Central Plateau.
Back in our seats the tinkle of the drinks trolley announces dinner. Roast chicken breast with cranberry pistachio stuffing served with rosemary rock salt potatoes is the perfect accompaniment to the vistas of the Rangitikei River (the Anduin River of Middle Earth).
Finally, the Kapiti Coast, where the Northern Explorer traces the cliffs of what must be one of the most spectacular stretches of coastal railway anywhere in the world. The approach into Wellington delivers sumptuous views of Kapiti Island, a New Zealand berry cheesecake and a rousing farewell haka from Tia.