10 best hotels in Dubai, from opulent suites to laid-back beach resorts
If you can't choose between two hotels, consider a 'twin-centre' break: splitting your nights across them both. This can be especially useful if you have plans at either end of the city (say, Old Dubai and the Palm), as traffic can be sticky and each neighbourhood has its own distinct vibe and perks.
Happily, 'best' hotels doesn't necessarily translate as 'most expensive': Dubai's affordable hospitality scene puts the rest of the world to shame, with sky-high standards of cleanliness, service and amenities. Read on to discover the finest hotels in Dubai, no matter your holiday style or budget.
Every Address hotel has its own signature scent, and Downtown's is heady and uplifting – just like the view from your balcony. Rising 63 storeys, this is one of the tallest hotels in Dubai, but that's titchy compared to the Burj Khalifa, which glitters just next door. For sightseeing with ease, this hotel is superb: you can gaze out at Downtown's fountains and towers over breakfast, in the gym, or from the spa – with the likes of Dubai Opera and Sky Views Dubai right on your doorstep. Rooms are positively palatial in size, and on the hotel's top floor Birds Dubai's serves 'MediterrAsian' fine dining: think local oysters, seared lamb and black cod with miso and caviar.
Address: Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Blvd, Downtown Dubai, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Read more: 'I went on holiday to Dubai on a budget – here's how I did it'
This vast resort is full of holiday must-haves: from its long golden shoreline and infinity-edge pool, to a feast of dining experiences in its ten restaurants. Pierchic is the top spot for sea-breezy suppers, with its dining area perched on a private pier overlooking the Burj Al Arab. 'Qasr' means palace in Arabic, and it lives up to its name with lavish Middle Eastern design – all scallop-edged archways, intricate tilework and antique-style furniture in the huge bedrooms. Every accommodation features a private balcony, plus little luxuries like deep-soak tubs, fluffy robes and Nespresso machines. The kids will also love the activity-packed club, with its jungle gym and exclusive splash pools: good times, guaranteed.
Address: Madinat Jumeirah, King Salman Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud St, Umm Suqeim, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Read more: The best time of year to visit Dubai – and top things to do in winter
A little slice of NYC on the trunk of the Palm, this sea-view resort pays homage to the original St. Regis New York – from butler service in every room, to signature 'Glitzy Mary' cocktails (a local twist on the classic Bloody Mary recipe). It occupies the first 18 floors of The Palm Tower, with direct access to Nakheel Mall for retail therapy, plus a private adults-only beach club and the endlessly Instagrammable AURA Skypool on the 50th floor (extra charge). The hotel is an oasis amid the city's hustle, with epic views in every direction and quietly sumptuous décor. Elegant, decadent – it would make the OG St. Regis proud.
Address: The Palm Jumeirah, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Read more: Rixos Premium Dubai JBR hotel review
With its immaculately clean rooms and huge range of thoughtful extras (from laundrettes to free beach brollies), the Rove brand raises the bar for budget hotels. It has several hotels throughout Dubai, all with a playful and colourful style – and for holiday vibes, Rove Marina is best. As well as having an outdoor pool, it runs a free shuttle to JBR Beach, Marina Mall and the Metro station (all 10 minutes away), plus Dubai Mall (25 minutes). There's also an outdoor pool, and a free games room with a PlayStation and foosball table – while the all-day bistro serves Arabic, Indian and Italian specialities, at prices that beat many Dubai restaurants hands-down.
Address: Al Seba St, Dubai Marina, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Read more: Defending Dubai's last patch of pristine desert and its animals – how to see the 'other side' of the emirate
Calling all golfers: Park Hyatt Dubai's neighbour is Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club – whose par 71 Championship course hosted the 2024 DP World Tour's Dubai Invitational, just one of its high-profile tournaments. Add in a glamorous beach club, huge rooms and lush tropical gardens, and you have the kind of resort you won't want to leave – so it's ideal if you've explored Dubai's sights on a previous trip. It's family friendly too, with an extensive kids' club and splash pool beside the main lagoon, which is dotted with palm tree-topped islands. The beach looks out over Dubai Creek, whose calm shallows are ideal for tots, while you'll appreciate the cocktails served straight to your sunlounger.
Address: Dubai Creek Club St, Port Saeed, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Read more: Delicious Dubai - the best dishes to devour when you next visit the UAE
It's the granddaddy of Dubai hotels, the epitome of decadence in a city that has made excess an artform – where royals have partied, presidents have snoozed, and celebs are often spotted cruising the breakfast buffet. The Burj Al Arab opened in 1999, and its interior décor has been preserved ever since like a lavish time-warp: from the 24-carat gold leaf that covers almost 2,000-square-metres of its walls, ceilings and columns, to the soaring 180-metre atrium – one of the most photographed in the world. There are no rooms, only suites, each of which grants access to two beach clubs and Wild Wadi waterpark. Its two-storey spa includes a Roman bathhouse-style swimming pool, too. A splurge, yes, but how often do you get to stay in a legend?
Address: Umm Suqeim 3, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Read more: Best family-friendly Dubai holidays that kids will love
Slap-bang in the centre of Downtown, home of the Burj Khalifa, Dubai Mall and Dubai Fountains, this five-star hotel is within easy reach of Dubai's top draws. It has a panoramic view of it all, so you can gaze at the world's tallest building from your poolside cabana, and watch its eye-popping light show over champagne cocktails and dinner. The spa is designed to host just a few guests at a time, so never feels crowded or rushed, while the interiors look like they've been plucked from a magazine: all velvet armchairs, gold-trimmed coffee tables and polished white marble at every turn. With direct access to Dubai Mall, this is a haven for design mavens and shopaholics.
Address: Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashed Boulevard Downtown Dubai, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Read more: Best things to do in Dubai Marina and where to stay
Dotted throughout the traditional-style houses of Al Seef, this boutique hotel is a glimpse of Old Dubai – albeit with a pool and plenty of modern comforts. The entire neighbourhood is designed in the style of early 1900s Dubai, when wealthy pearl merchants built huge villas from coral and stone, topped with elaborate wind towers – while traders sold spices, coffee and perfumes in the narrow sikkas (alleyways) below. Today, the scene is spookily similar: like stepping back in time, and all of the hotel's rooms are perched above shops, museums and restaurants. The design is suitably old-school too, with brass lanterns and vintage photographs aplenty – and some rooms overlook Dubai Creek.
Address: Dubai Creek, Al Seef St, Umm Hurair 1, Dubai, United Arab Emirate
Read more: The best things to do in Dubai
Solitude seekers, this one's for you. Though it's right in the heart of the city – with an epic backdrop of Dubai Marina skyscrapers – One&Only Royal Mirage rises above the bustle, cocooned with its private beach, huge pool and award-winning restaurants. It's divided into three sections: The Residence (adults only), Arabian Court (ideal for families) and The Palace (the resort's epicentre) – each with a covetable Middle Eastern aesthetic and blossoming gardens. Honeymooners, you'll love The Residence for its secluded villas, traditional-style couples' hammam and moonlit suppers à deux on the beach.
Address: King Salman Bin Abdulaziz Al Saud St, Dubai Marina, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Read more: The best time to visit Dubai for a holiday – and how to avoid sweltering temperatures
Whether you're a gym bunny or want to kick-start healthy habits, this fitness-inspired hotel is all about movement, nutrition and wellness. Out with excessive buffets and lazy days poolside, and in with personalised workouts and all-inclusive cardio classes. The in-house nutritionist can design your ideal holiday menu, while selected room bookings include body composition analysis and access to the hotel's salt room, meditation space and hot and cold plunge pools. It's little wonder that elite athletes and football teams are often spotted here. For the ultimate sporty getaway, book a Fitness Suite: each one features a private gym, personal training session and 60-minute recovery massage.
Address: Zaa'beel Street, Za'abeel, Za'abeel 1, Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Read more: Dubai city guide - where to stay, eat, drink and shop in the UAE's pleasure capital
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National Geographic
a day ago
- National Geographic
The instruments that shape the soundtrack of Abu Dhabi
The various sounds of a city can offer a window into its character. If you home in further and discover the music of any given place, you can learn more about its cultural traditions. As a UNESCO City of Music, Abu Dhabi has a natural heritage of traditional music that is intertwined with its culture and helps tell the emirate's story. From stringed instruments such as the rebabah to the strong and steady beat of the al-ras drum, Abu Dhabi's soundtrack is vibrant, steeped in tradition, and waiting to be explored. At the center of Abu Dhabi's music story is the oud, an instrument that defines the instrumental culture of the emirate. The pear-shaped, guitar-like oud is believed to be one of the world's oldest stringed instruments and dates back to the Akkadian Empire. On most days, its rich, melodic sound can be heard at Bait Al Oud (House of Oud) in Abu Dhabi. Founded in 2008 by oud master Naseer Shamma, the organization is housed in a villa tucked away in the Al Nahyan area of the city. It is dedicated to all things related to the oud along with other traditional instruments, such as the qanun and a stringed instrument known as the rebabah. Celebrated oud composer Faisal Al Saari, plays in Abu Dhabi's cultural center dedicated to the creation and appreciation of Emirati arts and literature. For many musicians of Faisal's caliber, mastering every aspect of this instrument is a life-long pursuit. Photograph by Nichole Sobecki Bait Al Oud preserves traditional Arabic music heritage while providing eager students with lessons and courses. The center is helping to produce the new generation of oud players and promote the continuation of songs and techniques associated with this culturally important instrument. Such is the oud's importance to the emirate, Bait Al Oud also hosts an in-house workshop where the instrument is lovingly made by expert craftspeople. During a visit to the workshop, you can witness the oud being constructed from the world's finest cedar and rosewood, from the cutting of the wood through to the preparation, assembly, and finishing of the strings. It's a labor-intensive process that results in each oud being made to be 67 centimeters long and 36 centimeters wide at the sound box. The craftspeople precisely carve and select the wood for each instrument so that musicians can then accurately tune the strings to the highest notes. Budding instrument makers can train at the workshop to learn how to make the oud, which further helps to keep the traditions associated with the instrument alive. Master craftsman Amr Fawzi in his workshop at Bait Al Oud, a center dedicated to preserving and sharing the understanding of Arabic musical instruments. Photograph by Nichole Sobek By learning more about the various traditional instruments in Abu Dhabi, you also by default learn about various important social and cultural events that are central to Emirati heritage. For example, the low-banging beat of the al-ras drum is the gateway to the al-ayyala, an expressive cultural performance involving poetry, music, and dance. The al-ayyala presents viewers with a mesmerizing scene: two rows of performers face each other while carrying thin bamboo sticks that represent weapons such as swords or arrows. The performers then begin to simulate a battle, making various movements with their heads, shoulders, arms, and canes to the beat of the drum. In between the rows, the band steadily plays the al-ras together with a variety of brass instruments and tambourines. Men chant lines of poetry, covering themes such as chivalry and group solidarity. It is a defiant routine, one that instills both the performer and the audience with a sense of strength and pride. There are many variations of the al-ayyala across the UAE, changing according to the region. These variations can be seen in the speed of the rhythm, the chanted poems, and slight changes in the movements made by the performers. The presence of the al-ras, however, remains a constant throughout. The al-ayyala can be experienced during celebrations such as weddings and other festivities. If you happen to be in Abu Dhabi at the beginning of December, you can catch a performance at the many National Day celebrations that take place throughout the emirate and the rest of the country. Moving on from the al-ras, another instrument that is commonly associated with the emirate is the rebabah, or rabāb, which is believed to be one of the earliest known bowed instruments. First mentioned in the 10th century, the rebabah took on various forms in the Arab world and beyond; in the UAE it bears a distinct rectangular shape in contrast to the ring shape of Iraq. The rebabah gives us an insight into another aspect of Abu Dhabi culture: the recitation of poetry in the majlis. In Emirati culture, a majlis is a sitting place where members of a community gather to discuss news, socialize, resolve problems and be entertained. Traditionally, a poet would recite his verses here accompanied by the soothing sounds of the rebabah. Nabati poetry is an extremely important form of expression in UAE culture and is characterized by a straightforward, colloquial style that makes it accessible to the masses. Performed together with the rebabah, the poem's verses seem to reverberate longer in the listener's mind. Depending on the time of year, it's not always possible to enjoy poetry recitations accompanied by the rebabah or even the al-ras-powered al-ayyala. The Abu Dhabi Cultural Foundation, however, offers a homegrown arts program that includes music and dance performances allowing you to enjoy a slice of the emirate's rich musical heritage no matter what month of the year you happen to be in town.
National Geographic
14-07-2025
- National Geographic
10 the best hotels in Abu Dhabi for every type of traveler
Abu Dhabi, the capital of the United Arab Emirates, is the country's largerst emirate comprised of more than 200 islands, a culture-centric vibe, and vast stretches of desert. Whether you're looking to embrace Arabian opulence or escape it all with toes in the beach or desert sand, our list of the best hotels in the emirate has you covered. 1. Conrad Abu Dhabi Etihad Towers Best for: Travelers with no fear of heights Towering over Abu Dhabi's seaside Corniche (or waterfront promenade), the Conrad Abu Dhabi resides in the 909-foot Tower 1 (T1) of the Etihad Towers complex. Guests can enjoy a lychee spritz and the incredible views at Ray's Bar on the 62nd floor, making it the highest bar in Abu Dhabi. Afterward, you can dine on wood-fired pizzas and handmade pasta at Sole, oysters and tiger prawns from the seafood bar at Nahaam, or enjoy sushi with a South American twist poolside at Sushisamba—the monthly Saturday Rio Brunch is a must-do experience for guests. If you overindulge in drinking and dancing, the hotel's serene spa offers treatments such as warm stone massages and oxygen facials. It's a soothing atmosphere; however, according to Assistant Spa Manager Melissa Cristal, 'it's the therapists that make it really special.' Good to know: Even if you're not a guest staying in the hotel, you can still enjoy the views on the Observation Deck at 300, located on the 74th floor. 2. Mandarin Oriental Emirates Palace Best for: Families Sip a cappuccino topped with powdered gold at the opulent Mandarin Oriental Emirates Palace. Families should consider checking into this hotel, which spans over 247 acres of palm tree-filled gardens and features an almost mile-long beach as well as kid-friendly amenities. 'Our three-storey Kids Palace has spiral slides, VR adventures, cooking classes, stargazing, and sleepovers in indoor teepees,' says Michael Koth, general manager and area vice president of operations. There's also a lazy river, and a couple of waterslides. Good to know: For more palatial beauty, guests can pop next door to Qasr Al Watan, the UAE's Presidential Palace, to marvel at Middle Eastern craftsmanship at its finest via carved wood, marble, and mosaics. (The essential guide to visiting Abu Dhabi) 3. Sheraton Abu Dhabi Hotel & Resort Best for: Fans of Modernist architecture Opened in 1979, the Sheraton Abu Dhabi was one of the first international hotels in the United Arab Emirates. Owners built the hotel eight years after the UAE became a nation. Today, the Sheraton Abu Dhabi retains its original terracotta façade and it has been recognized with Modern Heritage status, celebrating examples of architecture and urbanism that reflect Abu Dhabi's transformation following the discovery of oil in the emirate. It may not be the most glamorous of Abu Dhabi's hotels, but the Sheraton has plenty of charm, a loyal cadre of repeat guests who come year after year, and more affordable rooms than many of its neighbors. It's also home to the British-inspired Tavern Pub, complete with red phone booth, as well as squash and tennis courts, multiple pools, and B-Lounge, a relaxed outdoor venue that serves pizza and shisha. Good to know: The Sheraton is just across the street from the Abu Dhabi Corniche, a waterfront promenade where you can join residents for a sunset stroll. Business travelers may opt to stay at the Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island because it's near the city's financial center, high-end shopping, and popular restaurants. Photograph by Ryan Carter, Alamy Stock Photo 4. Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island Best for: Business travelers Located right next to Abu Dhabi Global Market, the emirate's main financial center, the Four Seasons is the place for business breakfasts and deals made over dinner in a 1920s Chicago-inspired steakhouse, Butcher & Still. 'You can do all your power meetings in one place without leaving the building,' says Regional Commercial Director Ekaterina Saburova. But it's not only for scions of business. An indoor corridor connects the hotel to Galleria Mall for high-end shopping and the city's most popular restaurants, including Coya, Zuma, and La Petite Maison. Good to know: While this isn't a beachside location, Four Seasons can arrange access to the nearby Saadiyat Beach Club—a long-time favorite of Abu Dhabi residents—for guests who need some beach time between meetings. 5. Erth Best for: Travelers seeking privacy Once the UAE Armed Forces Officers Club and Hotel, Erth was reborn in 2021 as a sleek getaway that embodies modern Emirati heritage, surrounded by desert plants such as ghaf trees, sweet acacia, and Arabian jasmine. In the 1980s, French architect Roger Taillibert designed the original central building, which resembles a falcon in flight and anchors the hotel. Hidden from view, Erth's eight villas offer complete privacy; four have gardens and four have private pools. Don't miss visiting the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, just a five-minute drive from the hotel. Good to know: The on-site Ergon Greek Deli & Café offers guests authentic tastes of Greece from crispy feta and spinach pies to hearty moussaka and sweet, sticky portokalopita orange cake. On Saadiyat Island, guests staying at the Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel and Villas can relax on sunbeds on the beach in front of the property. Photograph by Alamy Stock Photo 6. Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel and Villas Best for: Beach lovers Saadiyat Island, with its long sweep of soft, white sand and gentle turquoise waters, boasts some of the UAE's best beaches, and the Park Hyatt is one of the best places to enjoy them. If you're lucky, wild gazelles at the hotel's main entrance will welcome you upon your arrival at the hotel. Rooms, suites, and villas have the typical minimalist Park Hyatt aesthetic. Multiple pools and palms that offer guests shade lead down to the resort's dazzling stretch of sand. 'If you keep a lookout in the early morning, you might even see dolphins,' says Abhishek Rimal, the hotel's marketing coordinator. Good to know: It's worth getting off your sunbed to explore Saadiyat Island's cultural offerings, such as the Jean Nouvel-designed Louvre Abu Dhabi, the new teamLab Phenomena, and eventually the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Abu Dhabi and the Zayed National Museum. It's all a 10-minute drive away from the hotel. (7 unforgettable experiences in Abu Dhabi) 7. W Abu Dhabi Yas Island Best for: Motorsports aficionados Perfect for petrolheads, the Yas Marina Circuit racetrack passes under and around the W Abu Dhabi Yas Island hotel, offering guests the hottest ticket in town for the Abu Dhabi Formula 1 Grand Prix every December. It also provides front-row views of other races scheduled throughout the season. The hotel's rooms and suites maintain a surprisingly simple aesthetic with minimalist furnishings and a predominantly white décor, drawing inspiration from Emirati cultural heritage. Behind the front desk is an unusual sculptural wall featuring multiple faces. 'Look at the noses and you'll see the clips Abu Dhabi's pearl divers used to hold their breath underwater,' says Shalini Gurjar, W Insider and guest experience manager. Good to know: Yas Island is home to Ferrari World, where the world's fastest rollercoaster blasts riders from zero to 149 miles per hour in four-point-nine seconds. Theme parkgoers should also consider a visit to Yas Waterworld, which features 40 rides and water slides. Both attractions will be joined by Disneyland Abu Dhabi, expected to open in the early 2030s. 8. Jebel Hafit Pura Desert Retreat Best For: History fans On the edge of Al Ain, a 4,000-year-old oasis town with 147,000 date palms, sits Jebel Hafit, Abu Dhabi's only mountain. At just over 4,000 feet, it's no colossus, but its sandy, rock-strewn base is home to evidence of human life dating back to Neolithic times. The Department of Antiquities and Tourism restored some of the more than 500 Bronze Age Jebel Hafit Tombs on-site. Guests staying at the Jebel Hafit Pura Desert Retreatare within an easy hike of it all. This retreat features five sustainable skylight domes, five sky bubbles, 10 heritage tents, and a 10-spot public campsite area. Closed during the hot summer months, this is an ideal winter destination for those who enjoy the outdoors. Good to know: Tents feature firepits, and guests can order lamb chops, tiger prawns, and Omani lobster for a D.I.Y. barbecue. Travelers looking for a luxurious "palace-like" stay in the Empty Quarter Desert can check into the Qasr Al Sarab, which features 140 rooms, 14 suites, and 52 pool villas. Photograph by Robert Harding, Alamy Stock Photo 9. Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara Best for: Desert adventurers Located far out in Abu Dhabi's Empty Quarter, this is the perfect place to commune with the desert. Qasr Al Sarab, or 'Palace of the Mirage,' is a fitting description for a resort that rises above the sands like an Arabian fantasy. Falconry shows are available to guests. For a real immersive experience in Emirati Bedouin culture, guests can head to Ezba, the resort's education center. 'Ezba embodies everything we believe slow travel should be,' says General Manager Jean-Paul Dantil. Good to know: Climb the resort's dunes at dusk for extraordinary views of the sun setting over a vast sea of sand. Take water with you—it's quite the slog. (Everything you should know about Abu Dhabi) 10. Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Sahel Villa Resort Best For: Wildlife lovers Luxury travelers seeking remote accommodations can take a two-hour drive west of downtown Abu Dhabi, followed by a 25-minute boat ride to Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island. The remoteness of the property is its primary appeal to most guests. Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island is situated within a Royal Nature Reserve, established in 1971, and is now home to approximately 11,000 animals, including endangered native species such as the Arabian oryx. Friendly gazelles and peacocks wander by Al Sahel's 30 pool villas. Active travelers can head out on wildlife drives, nature walks, horseback rides, or visit a nursery to learn about the on-site conservation efforts and meet some of the animals. Good to know: Sir Bani Yas Island is home to 42 archaeological sites, including 20-million-year-old salt domes, and a Nestorian Christian monastery dating back to 600 A.D. Guests can visit both historic sites on the resort's culture and history tour. Nicola Chilton is a Yorkshire-born, Dubai-based writer who tells the stories of people and places in the Middle East and beyond. Follow her on Instagram.
San Francisco Chronicle
12-07-2025
- San Francisco Chronicle
Look beyond S.F.'s great landmarks to find the real city
San Francisco has always been a bit of a myth, a city of fog and good stories, like those Sunday columns Herb Caen used to write. Some of us fell in love with it. But the real San Francisco was always elusive, a city just beneath the legend. Like a lot of us, I have spent years looking for the real city. So I spent a couple of days at midweek looking for what a blogger called 'the authentic San Francisco.'' I skipped the Golden Gate Bridge, the famous hills, stayed away from Chinatown and the Castro, the cable cars and the crooked street. Instead I rode the N-Judah Muni line from one end to the other, from the ballpark to Ocean Beach, right through the heart of the city. It's the busiest rail line in the Muni system — nearly 50,000 riders every weekday. This is not your father's Muni, either; the N rolls down Irving and Judah streets in the Sunset with two-car trains, 150 feet long. And most of the equipment is new and still shiny, designed in Germany and manufactured in Sacramento. The new cars mean fewer breakdowns in the Muni Metro subway under Market Street, but this is still San Francisco after all and the subway is run using an obsolete computer control system, so every so often everything stops. It's the ride that counts, and the N car has a good bit of the San Francisco mix: a ride along the waterfront, then in the city's double-decker subway, out in the sunlight by Duboce Park, back in a tunnel, out again into the afternoon summer fog, past the UCSF campus on Parnassus Heights, through two distinct versions of the Sunset District, then a long ride through a neighborhood famous for its sameness, to end up at the far edge of the city, with the Pacific Ocean just over the sand hill. It's San Francisco in all its famous multicultural mix, hundreds of restaurants from Arabic street food to Pasquale's Pizza, Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian, Singaporean, Mexican. The N stops right in front of Art's Café, on Irving Street, a tiny classic American diner run by a Korean family. There's even a store just down the street that sells illusions. The N car ride has surprises — poetry embedded in the waiting platforms along the Embarcadero. Here's one by Ember Ward at Folsom Street: 'Whenever I find myself waiting I take pictures / with my mind. / I took a picture of you, / down in the subway station / taking the escalator up…' I got back on the train at Folsom across from the old Hills Bros. coffee plant and rode north, toward the Ferry Building, then west, to the Sunset. The car was crowded, as usual, but quiet, too. It's a bit of a Muni rule: Passengers are in their own world and strangers do not talk to each other. About halfway into the ride, I got off at Ninth Avenue and Irving Street, where the N car makes a turn. My picture of the real city is around Ninth and Irving in the Inner Sunset. If someone were kidnapped by space aliens, taken off to outer space, blindfolded and returned to Earth at Ninth and Irving, they would know immediately where they were. They'd see the mix, they'd smell the fog. It's San Francisco. No place like it. I walked down Ninth, toward Golden Gate Park, only a block away, past Green Apple Books, past the Sunset Gym ('The beating heart of the Sunset,' the sign says), past a new grocery store, past Misdirection Magic Shop (which sells jokes, novelties and illusions), past San Francisco's Hometown Creamery, back on the N train to the beach. The ride out Judah Street seemed endless, the avenues rolling by. Gradually the train emptied out, the passengers walking away toward home. I imagine every expat San Franciscan who moved away from the fog lived in the Sunset at one time or another. People still talk of the sand dunes, football at Kezar, the long streetcar ride downtown. It was an Irish and Italian neighborhood. It's half Asian now. It is still a distinct west side of the city, as if the rest of San Francisco were another city with its separate problems and concerns. That came to a head last fall when San Francisco voters approved Proposition K to turn the Great Highway into an oceanside park. Sunset people who lost a highway so that other San Franciscans could get a park were outraged. Now there's a recall campaign against District Supervisor Joel Engardio. The election is this fall. It's the hot political topic in the Sunset this summer, and maybe it's part of a new reality: one neighborhood pulling against the rest of the city. The N-Judah line is a long trip through a small city, along the bay, through tunnels and cultures, and at the end of the line the train stops at the Java Beach Cafe, another world away. Here the N line runs around a big curved loop, and after a walk along the beach, one can take a Muni train back to the real San Francisco. It's not far away.
