El-Sisi and Macron stroll in Khan El-Khalili echoes beyond words - Society

Al-Ahram Weekly

09-04-2025

Standing in quiet surprise, watching Egypt's President Abdel-Fattah El-Sisi and French President Emmanuel Macron stroll through the bustling Khan El-Khalili market, Mustafa's cart—nestled between spice vendors and copper workshops—suddenly found itself in the spotlight.
For years, the mint tea seller had poured steaming cups without a second thought, but today, he stood in awe as the presidential motorcade passed by. This occurred when President El-Sisi accompanied Macron to Old Cairo's Khan El-Khalili market on Sunday evening, marking the beginning of Macron's three-day visit to Egypt.
Later, wiping his brow with a rose-embroidered cloth, Mustafa said, 'Of course, I felt joy. It's a message to the world: Egypt is safe.' He quietly recited a Quranic verse: 'Enter Egypt, God willing, in safety and security.'
This was no random visit. Khan El-Khalili was chosen with intention—not just for its charm but to deliver a message that contradicted headlines of unrest. Amid the scent of cardamom and the clinking of metal, the two presidents walked side by side, blending into the crowd, their security details almost unnoticed.
Khan El-Khalili, a historic district in Old Cairo, has long drawn visitors with its bustling bazaars, traditional eateries, and vibrant street life. Known for its centuries-old architecture and enduring charm, the 600-year-old market remains one of the oldest in Egypt and the Middle East. Despite the passage of time, it has retained its Mamluk-era character.
File Photo: Bab al-Ghuri and shops in the market area in Khan El-Khalili. Photo courtesy of my guide cairo website.
Video clips and photos captured the two presidents also walking through Al-Hussein Square, where the public greeted them warmly outside the iconic Al-Hussein Mosque and Shrine, engaging with the crowd as they passed.
Nobel's Café
El-Sisi and Macron later dined at one of the renowned local restaurants in the market.
At Nagib Mahfouz Café and Restaurant, named after Egypt's Nobel laureate, the air hummed with the gentle melodies of oud music.
Ashraf Attia, the owner, had coordinated closely with French embassy officials. 'Our goal was to offer the best service,' he said, gesturing to the high-ceilinged hall adorned with oil paintings and Arabic calligraphy. The presidential delegation, nearly 80 strong, had reserved the entire place for a traditional Egyptian meal: lentil soup, grilled meats, baba ghanoush, and oriental sweets.
Kamel, a soft-spoken waiter in his thirties, recalled Macron's simplicity: 'He pointed at dishes like any tourist would.' He indicated the table where the leaders sat, which the next day hosted a Texan tour group. Their guide, Nashwa Awad, said she insisted they dine there after seeing footage of the visit. 'I told them: This is a historic moment!'
One tourist, a white-haired woman in a purple blouse, whispered, 'You have a beautiful, safe country.' Then, as if sharing a secret, she added, 'We didn't come just for the pyramids. We came to see the people—how they live together despite everything.'
Egyptian Abdel Fattah El-Sisi and French President Macron dining at Nagib Mahfouz Café and Restaurant in Khan El-Khalili. Photo courtesy of Khan El Khalili Restaurant Facebook page.
The silent pride of artisans
Down a narrow alley, Samir's handmade paper shop glimmered, its sheets dyed in rich hues. 'I gifted the president a notebook I made,' he said, smoothing a page with care. 'The visit was diplomatic, yes, but also a message: Egypt stands strong and safe.'
Nearby, Ahmed, an elderly fabric merchant, remembered the president's roots: 'He is from here, from El-Gamaleya. His family worked in arabesque woodwork. I remember his father and grandfather crafting mother-of-pearl inlays. Back then, our neighbourhood had Jews, English, and Armenians. His cousins still work in the trade, with a workshop nearby.'
Two streets over, an old mother-of-pearl workshop displayed frames etched with Arabic script. Mahmoud, the craftsman, reflected, 'Maybe the president worked here as a boy in this fading craft. If so, it gave him a deep knowledge of art and trade.'
At Arabesque Ali Hamama's workshop, antique wooden balconies and other relics stood prominently. Haj Ali Halawa, the elder, interjected: 'This is one of Cairo's oldest workshops. Even the TV series Arabesque, starring Saleh El-Saadany, was inspired here.'
Tea and unscripted moments
At Umm Kulthum Café, owner Magdy seemed in disbelief. 'They walked in like regular customers,' he insisted. 'No crowds—just families enjoying tea.' The two presidents lingered over their cups, with Macron appearing enchanted by vintage radios playing the songs of the Star of the East.
Behind this warmth, heavier matters lay. Sources confirmed talks on Gaza aid and economic partnerships. But in Khan El-Khalili, the message was clearer: Egypt's streets, often reduced to headlines of crisis, could still host a quiet stroll between old friends
The two presidents greeted vendors and passersby while strolling through the Khan El-Khalili market.
As the sun set over Khan El-Khalili, lanterns flickered on, casting a warm glow over the centuries-old market. The presidents departed, the tea was cleared, and tourists resumed their visits. But for a brief moment, between sips of mint tea and handshakes with artisans, Egypt was seen not through headlines but as it truly is: enduring, vibrant, and welcoming. Some messages speak without words.
​Tourism is one of Egypt's key sources of foreign currency, along with remittances from Egyptians abroad, Suez Canal revenues, and foreign direct investments.
In 2024, Egypt welcomed 15.7 million tourists and generated $14.1 billion in total revenue, exceeding the previous record of 14.9 million visitors set in 2023.
To boost tourism, the Egyptian government has developed a national tourism strategy to attract 30 million visitors by 2028.
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