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I've never been prone to nostalgia. But when I stop by our old London home, memories come upon me in a flood

I've never been prone to nostalgia. But when I stop by our old London home, memories come upon me in a flood

The Guardian4 days ago
Back when we took photographs with actual cameras and film and had the pictures printed at the chemist, we took a snap of our son on his first day of school.
He sat on the front steps of our then home, a terrace in London. He smiled awkwardly, barely managing to sit still for all of the excitement.
I don't think of those London years very often. Life passes so quickly that living in the now feels imperative. But being back in London with time on my hands 22 years after returning permanently to Australia, the memories came upon me in a flood.
It was late spring. The milky light and warm days made me languorous and nostalgic about those few years we spent living there. Personal memories about people, I find, are very attached to place. I've written before about how I find it hard to visualise my long-dead parents because they never visited our current home.
So it has been with my boy (can I truly still call him my boy now that he's a very much alive 27-year-old, 196cm-tall motorcycle-riding man?). What I mean is, I can't readily remember the emotional sense I had of parenting him when he was the child in that first day of school photograph.
He was accident-prone – born wriggling and wanting to run. Always hitting his head. Falling. Getting up. Falling again. Running towards danger. A risk-taker. But recall of him in the London years – when we, his parents, were both travelling constantly and serving early-morning and late-evening Australian newspaper deadlines – sometimes lacks definition and detail.
One afternoon recently I hopped on the tube and headed to my old neighbourhood. I planned to visit what was our grungy though welcoming local for a drink. Alas it had transformed into a hyper-expensive steak joint and, even though it was empty, I couldn't sit and order a drink without also paying extortionately for some Argentinian beef.
I wandered to the nearby common with its perilously steep bitumen path. I felt the trepidation I always experienced when watching the boy careen down it on his scooter always narrowly missing (except when he painfully collected it) the Victorian-era metal bollard at the bottom.
And then there we were, walking hand-in-hand along the high street in the sleet and wind while he fought to stay awake (he developed the weird ability as a four-year-old to sleep lightly while he walked holding my hand).
I walked past what we called the Billy Goat's Gruff park where one of us would play the troll under the bridge while he traversed the little wooden bridge above. It's how we met the 'weather lady', a kind woman, in her early 60s back then, who talked endless about the grim winter. She gave our boy a pair of mittens because she was worried about his cold antipodean hands.
I wandered down our old nearby street. Stopped opposite our former home, right about where someone was stabbed 20-something years ago while I cooked dinner inside.
There was the boy on the step, ready for school. And suddenly I could recall how it felt to be me back inside the house.
Memories, disjointed but vivid, competed for attention. That first real summer day when the boy's desire to celebrate the season was so vivid he stripped off all his clothes, as he routinely did in Australia, and ran into the back yard. Later, him sitting on the back step, still buck naked, eating watermelon and spitting pips into the garden.
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Next, him sitting on the carpeted bottom step of the internal staircase on the eve of his third birthday. He was weeping uncontrollably. Inconsolably. Had something terrible happened? Was he afraid?
No. He confided that he was devastated that this was his final day as a two-year-old and he would never ever be two again – and he wanted to remember, to cling on to forever, the 'feeling of being two'.
He had few friends back then. We'd arrived on a bitterly cold New Year's Day. We knew nobody in the neighbourhood. We made the most of his third birthday party: the neighbours and their kid from one side and the much older couple from the other (they were probably my age now at the time) came to sing Happy Birthday.
The kind weather lady came. With a present of course.
I left our old street and went to a cafe. Wrote this all down. I've never been cheaply sentimental or overly prone to nostalgia. But the feelings this day were a lot.
Snap out of it. I headed back to the tube. And there, on the other side of the road, hunched almost double over her shopping buggy, was the weather lady.
That's when I really felt time's arrow.
Paul Daley is a Guardian Australia columnist
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I tested best fish and chips in capital of British national dish – winner was succulent and flaky and only cost £10.50
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I tested best fish and chips in capital of British national dish – winner was succulent and flaky and only cost £10.50

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Inside abandoned Soviet-era nuclear missile base where three people died hidden deep underground in forests of Lithuania
Inside abandoned Soviet-era nuclear missile base where three people died hidden deep underground in forests of Lithuania

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Inside abandoned Soviet-era nuclear missile base where three people died hidden deep underground in forests of Lithuania

The base housed Soviet R-12 Dvina missiles and remained a secret until US spies spotted it in 1978 SECRET BASE Inside abandoned Soviet-era nuclear missile base where three people died hidden deep underground in forests of Lithuania Click to share on X/Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) DEEP in the forests of western Lithuania, a chilling relic of the Cold War still lies hidden — a secret underground nuclear missile base where three people lost their lives. The Plokštinė Missile Base, buried in Žemaitija National Park about 30 miles from the Baltic Sea, once housed Soviet R-12 Dvina missiles pointed at Western Europe. Sign up for Scottish Sun newsletter Sign up 8 Soviet-era nuclear missile base in Lithuania where three people died is now a Cold War Museum Credit: Wikimedia Commons 8 Hidden deep underground in forests, it housed missiles pointed at Western Europe Credit: Wikimedia Commons 8 Three people lost their lives at the nuclear missile base Credit: Wikimedia Commons Today, it's the park's top tourist draw, transformed into the Cold War Museum and attracting 35,000 visitors in 2024 alone. But behind the eerie exhibits of Lenin statues, Soviet flags and dimly lit tunnels lies a deadly history. Museum guide Aušra Brazdeikytė, who grew up nearby, told CNN: "A soldier fell to his death when his [safety] belt broke during a routine service check. "Two other soldiers died during a nitric acid spill while trying to refuel the missile." Completed in 1962 after two years of construction involving more than 10,000 workers, the base was one of the USSR's most secretive sites. Surrounded by barbed wire and a two‑mile electric fence, it remained hidden until US satellites finally spotted it in 1978 — by which time it had already been decommissioned under disarmament agreements. The entrance, still marked by a Russian sign reading 'Please, wipe your feet,' leads down to a labyrinth of rooms and four silos plunging 100 feet underground. Visitors can now peer into the abyss of one of the shafts, which never launched a missile but claimed lives during service. The site once housed around 300 soldiers in a ghost town nearby — bizarrely converted into a children's summer camp called Žuvėdra ('seagull') after the base shut down. Its bus stop still bears a mural of a gnome on a mushroom holding a flower. Inside abandoned Antarctic clifftop 'ghost station' where Soviet boffins battled -90C gales 1000s of miles from anywhere After Lithuania broke free from Soviet rule in 1990, the base was abandoned and stripped for scrap. It reopened as a museum in 2012 with EU funding, giving the public rare access to a facility once designed for nuclear war. Today, the stark remains of the Plokštinė base — its mud‑covered hangars resembling ancient pyramids — stand in sharp contrast to the idyllic lakes and forests around it. The region, once a militarized zone bristling with rockets, is now a gem of slow travel in Lithuania. The museum's exhibits walk visitors through propaganda, weapons technology and daily life under Soviet control. Lifelike mannequins dressed as grim soldiers add to the unsettling atmosphere, making the underground tour feel like stepping back into the Iron Curtain era. For locals like Brazdeikytė, memories of the base run deep. She recalls soldiers becoming part of everyday life, often working on nearby collective farms but never daring to talk about what lay beneath the forest floor. 8 Base, once surrounded by barbed wire, opened as museum in 2012 with EU funding Credit: Wikimedia Commons 8 Visitors can now peer into the abyss of one of the shafts, which never launched a missile but claimed lives during service Credit: Wikimedia Commons 8 The base housed Soviet R-12 Dvina missiles and was hidden until US spies spotted it in 1978 Credit: Wikimedia Commons 'We worked alongside soldiers from different Soviet republics at collective farms, but never discussed military topics,' she told CNN. The base's location in Plokštinė forest was chosen carefully by Soviet planners: the sandy soil was easy to excavate, nearby Plateliai Lake provided water for cooling systems, and the sparse local population meant fewer eyes watching. Visitors today can combine the chilling underground tour with the natural beauty above ground. Žemaitija National Park offers cycling and hiking trails, and Lake Plateliai is a favorite spot for campers and nature lovers. The nearby town of Plateliai is home to an 18th‑century wooden church and even a Mardi Gras museum with its famous carved masks. But deep beneath the birch trees and Baltic pines, the echoes of the Cold War — and the lives lost in its shadow — linger in the silence. 8 The facility was abandoned after Lithuania freed from Soviet rule Credit: Wikimedia Commons

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