This 'Forgotten' City in Aruba Is Quietly Becoming One of the Caribbean's Hot Spots for Art and Culture

Travel + Leisure

10-06-2025

Book a one-bedroom suite at Eva Resort and spend mornings making coffee in your very own kitchen.
Embark on a guided mural tour of San Nicolas to learn more about the history and culture of the island and its communities from a local.
Bask in the vibrant colors, music, and costumes of a Caribbean carnival celebration at the Carnival Euphoria Exhibition.
Spend an afternoon soaking up rays and swimming with turtles at Baby Beach.
Dine on jerk chicken wings and curry lobster at O'Niel Caribbean Kitchen.
When I first set foot in Aruba, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. I knew the island had a great reputation, that the sand would be powder-soft and the waters shimmery turquoise, but I hadn't anticipated uncovering its cultural core, or feeling such a strong personal connection.
Aruba has long been a destination for sunseekers in search of a serene island escape, but beyond its pristine beaches lies a place filled with vibrant culture, cuisine, and street art. San Nicolas is a reflection of the island's rich heritage, influenced by the generations of Afro-Caribbean and South American immigrants who call it home. As someone of Caribbean descent (my mother is from Trinidad, my father is Puerto Rican), I immediately felt at home among the melting pot that defines this part of the island.
A powerful story lies in the colorful streets of San Nicolas. The island's second-largest city—known for its past as a thriving port and industrial hub during Aruba's oil boom, and later as the island's red light district—is now at the epicenter of a cultural revival. Today, locals like Tito Bolivar, founder of the ArtWeek Aruba and Aruba Art Fair, are setting out to not only reclaim what the city once was, but also transform it into a celebration of Aruban culture. 'San Nicolas used to be one of the most important places in Aruba, but it's become a forgotten city. I wanted to bring light, art, and culture back,' said Bolivar. 'I started with the Aruba Art Fair, which includes a program where artists paint murals in San Nicolas. The goal was to rebrand San Nicolas as the 'street art capital' of the Caribbean.'
Every street, with walls adorned in stunning murals, tells a story. Tales of the many industrial revolutions the tiny island has undergone, of the cultural mosaic that makes up its people, and of the trials and triumphs that have been experienced along the way. It's a story of reinvention, resilience, and a joie de vivre that feels so distinctly Aruban. Attractions like the Mural Tours, the Museum of Industry, and Baby Beach have brought a healthy heaping of interest to the area, but it still feels like a hidden gem. With Secrets Baby Beach Aruba, a popular all-inclusive resort, slated to open in June 2025, and the third annual Aruba Art Fair set to take the city in October, my instinct tells me San Nicolas is on the precipice of becoming the next hot spot. For now, the area remains an incredible cultural haven for those who crave an adventure beyond the glossy resorts. The pool at Bucuti & Tara during sunset.
While some locals are less than enthused about what the opening of this large all-inclusive will do to the area, many business owners I spoke with in San Nicolas were buzzing with excitement. A resort this size is indicative of the area's growth, and more people mean more visitors and more attention. Secrets Baby Beach Aruba, set to open in June 2025, is located just two minutes down the road from San Nicolas' downtown center, along the serene Baby Beach. The all-inclusive, adults-only resort—part of the Hyatt Inclusive Collection—features 304 suites (some with ocean views and plunge pools), seven dining options, an infinity pool with Balinese-inspired daybeds, and a fully packed activities calendar.
For a boutique stay that feels more like a private hideaway than the many cookie-cutter resorts dotting the island, head to Eva Resort in Savaneta. The intimate property offers just four one- to two-bedroom suites, each equipped with a full kitchen and cozy living room, so you can really lean into the whole home-away-from-home feel. The saltwater pool, private chef experiences, and VIP tours add an extra layer of luxury to any trip. Located just 15 minutes from San Nicolas, it's an ideal home base for venturing off the beaten path.
Although it's about a 40-minute drive from San Nicolas, Joia Aruba by Iberostar is the current belle of the (beach) ball—it's the newest luxury resort to arrive on the island. Nestled along the shores of Eagle Beach, named the best beach in the Caribbean, this oasis is not only stunning, but it also has an eco-conscious design and world-class amenities, including an 18-hole golf course (the only one on the island), a state-of-the-art wellness center, and gourmet dining options showcasing regional flavors.
Also set near the sunny coast of Eagle Beach, Bucuti & Tara is a dreamy adults-only escape with a focus on wellness, sustainability, and romance. It was even voted one of Travel + Leisure readers' favorite resorts in the Caribbean, Bermuda, and the Bahamas in 2023. A couple at the Museum of Industry.
One thing that immediately captivated me about San Nicolas was the vibrant murals lining the streets. Walking around was an immersive experience, each wall telling a different story of the island's past and present. Bolivar selects street artists from around the globe to share their tales of the island's culture with splashes of color. 'I look for artists whose style aligns with Aruba being 'One Happy Island,'' he said. He offers a few different Mural Tours of different lengths, but perhaps the most intriguing is The Whole Story & Workshop, a 6.5-hour option that includes live art lessons with a local artist.
If you want to learn more about Aruba's history and culture, visit at least one of the three museums in San Nicolas. The Museum of Industry offers a deep dive into the many industrial revolutions Aruba has undergone. The Carnival Euphoria Exhibition gives visitors a glimpse into the heritage of Aruba's carnival season with costumes, memorabilia, and hands-on workshops with the community. And the Community Museum, which sits inside the restored Nicolaas Store, brings local history to life with recreated rooms and relics from the island's early communities.
While Palm Beach and Eagle Beach can get crowded (for good reason), Baby Beach is the ideal spot for something a bit more relaxed. Its curved, crescent-shaped shoreline keeps the waters calm and prime for snorkeling. There's also a restaurant called Big Mama Grill for post-swim refreshments. During my time spent exploring the underwater world at Baby Beach, I was able to spot a colorful array of parrotfish and angelfish, and even swam with a few sea turtles—one of my island highlights.
During the oil boom, thousands of Afro-Caribbean and South American laborers arrived to work in the refineries and shaped the area into the cultural melting pot it is today, and the cuisines of San Nicolas still tell that story. Aside from soaking up the art and history of the island, eating my way through the city is something that still lingers on my mind (and my tastebuds). Lobstery curry and outdoor seating at O'Niel Caribbean Kitchen.
Danielle Robles/Travel + Leisure
Jamaica-born and Aruba-based chef Oneil Williams brings a blend of Caribbean flavors to San Nicolas at O'Niel Caribbean Kitchen. The restaurant lives up to its motto, 'local and Caribbean cuisine, good to the last bite,' with mouthwatering delicacies like jerk chicken wings, oxtail stew, and, my personal favorite, curry lobster. Of all the amazing meals I had on the island (I had many), this was easily one of my favorites.
Founded by husband-and-wife duo Nick and Kedesha Gordon, Kulture Cafe sits inside the Nicolaas Store and just below the Community Museum. Everything feels healthy and fresh here, from the signature salmon and avocado toast to the sage and lime juice quencher. Aside its from tasty food, the cafe celebrates local culture. 'Our goals include providing a welcoming space for residents and visitors to connect, hosting events that showcase local talent and arts, and promoting the rich cultural heritage of Aruba,' said owner Nick Gordon. Live music, art exhibitions, and culinary experiences that reflect the island's traditions are just a few items on the cafe's calendar.
Renowned among locals and visitors alike, Kamini's Kitchen combines Aruban flavors with chef and owner Kamini Kurvink's Trinidadian roots for some good old-fashioned Caribbean comfort food. The half-Trini in me was beyond thrilled to find staples like doubles, roti, and chana and potato curry on the menu, just like my grandmother made them.
Setting out to bring the flavors of his childhood to the forefront of the Aruban food scene, chef Marc-Alain Arcelin (a.k.a. chef Makaveli), founded Dessalines Haitian Caribbean Cuisine. On the menu, you'll find plates like pork belly pineapple ceviche and his take on Haitian spaghetti, a traditional breakfast dish made with turkey sausage, smoked herring, a hard-boiled egg, fresh tomatoes, and red peppers. Aerial view of Baby Beach.
San Nicolas is best enjoyed by day, when colorful murals, galleries, and cafes bring the area to life. As the city continues to evolve from its red light district roots, it's still finding its footing, making morning and afternoon the ideal times to experience it at its most vibrant.
Since Aruba is not a part of the hurricane belt, any time of year is a good time to visit. The temperature typically sits around 82 degrees Fahrenheit year-round, with occasional rain between October and January. One thing that surprised me was how windy the island was during my visit, and according to locals, May is typically one of the windiest months.
If you want to experience Aruban culture in San Nicolas up close, come the first week of September, when ArtWeek Aruba kicks off. The week culminates with the three-day Aruba Art Fair, where the community comes together with live performances, art installations, food trucks, and more. A colorful mosaic on the streets of San Nicolas, Aruba.
Visitors will fly into Queen Beatrix International Airport (AUA), which is a direct flight from many major U.S. cities, especially on the East Coast, as well as many major international airports around the world. As of now, visas are not required for citizens of the U.S., Canada, the Caribbean, Europe, and most of South America, but visitors will need to fill out the Embarkation and Disembarkation (ED) card online and pay a $20 sustainability fee.
To get to San Nicolas from the airport, travelers can rent a car (my personal preference) or take a taxi. It's about a 25- to 30-minute drive along the coast.
Depending on where you're staying on the island, you can rent a car from the airport, find a local rental, or take a taxi to San Nicolas. Since it's a bit off the beaten path and not particularly close to most hotels, I recommend renting a car so you can explore the island at your leisure. Driving in Aruba is pretty straightforward, and traffic is fairly calm.