I spent 48 hours in this riverside Sydney suburb and never expected to feel this way
We check into the Parkroyal Parramatta because it's in the middle of the action, and the rooms have just had makeovers. From our room we can see the whole town: a mix of new and heritage buildings, Western Sydney Stadium, a glimpse of the river, and Church Street, which is lined with restaurants and serviced by the brand-new light rail.
We start our first evening at the Club Lounge for some complimentary bubbles and canapés, and then dinner in the hotel restaurant, Table 30. Then we hit up one of Sydney's best bars, Nick & Nora's – a glamorous, Art Deco-style cocktail and Champagne bar 26 storeys in the air. From up here, the city sparkles.
Next morning after brekkie (omelettes on demand, hashbrowns, waffles!), we take the Australian Heritage Walk along the river. The track is dotted with signs that trace the history of the Burramattagal people of the Dharug Nation – their deep connection to this waterway, the devastating impact of colonisation, and the river's enduring role in shaping Parramatta's story. What I find most surprising about the walk is that we're just a few minutes away from a buzzing metropolis, yet it feels bushy and wildlife-packed, with loads of birds, and we see some for-real Parramatta eels. (I learn that the name 'Parramatta' comes from the Aboriginal word 'Burramatta', meaning 'place of eels'.)
We head to Parramatta Park, towards our lunch spot, and it gets even bushier. Then we see it – Misc is an arch-roofed restaurant perched on the water's edge, surrounded by grass and bushland. It's way more beautiful than the photos I've seen, and I realise we're in for a very special time. There are bottles of Veuve in a bucket of ice at reception, and we're taken to our river-view outdoor table – covered by a mint-green and white umbrella. We order a bottle of bubbly and settle in, watching birds flit around the trees. To start we order some blue swimmer crab rillettes on fried sourdough, then continue with the cheesiest baked rigatoni with spiced prosciutto bolognese (yum!), and fish with a moreish sauce made from burnt butter, capers and toasted almonds (so yum!). We have the most magical afternoon – this restaurant, alone, is worth coming to Parramatta for (they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, depending on the day).
Setting off back to the hotel, we stop to explore the World Heritage Listed Old Government House, Australia's oldest public building. Built from 1799 by convicts, on the foundations of Governor Phillip's original 1790 thatched cottage, this joint served as one of the residences of Australia's first ten governors. As we explore the building – full of original colonial furniture, homewares and clothing – I feel icky. It's an extremely 'old English' home propped up on a grassy hill overlooking the river that was once the lifeblood of the traditional owners. If this feels out of place now, I imagine how out of place it would have felt back when this was all bushland declared 'terra nullius'. It's good to see things that confront you, I tell myself – that's why museums are here, to remind us of our past, and of the future we hope for.
In the evening, we head to the Riverside Theatres – the Sydney Comedy Festival is on, so we thought we'd get around it. We buy a couple of drinks and snacks, and head into the 'Festival Gardens' – a fairy-lit bar area. TBH, we weren't sure about the idea of the show we're going to see: Malaysian Comedy Allstars. But, several seconds into the show – which features an Indian comedian, followed by Malaysian, followed by Chinese (all from Malaysia) – we're already cacking.
A multicultural comedy show that playfully riffs on our differences and quirks seems an apt prelude to a stroll back up Church Street, which is pumping. Couples, families and groups of friends spill onto the footpaths, gathered around outdoor tables, feasting on everything from Italian to Indonesian, Nepalese, Filipino, Greek, Japanese, Spanish, Thai and more. We duck into a cool little Lebanese street food eatery called Sambousek to pick up some Lebanese pizzas for a steal ($8 for a big zaatar and cheese manoush, and $11 for a chicken, garlic sauce and cheese).
Back out on the pavement, I take a moment to look around – at people with backgrounds from all over the world, all having fun in this eclectic stretch of city – and although I was confronted by the weight of history earlier at Old Government House, being here makes me feel grateful, and all the more hopeful for our future.
After checking out of the hotel the next morning, we stop at the delightful Lucien Baked Goods – by the same crew as our , Circa Espresso – for coffee and a very good almond croissant. Fuel for the bike ride we're about to take.
We hire our wheels from Bike Hire @ Sydney Olympic Park, then (think) we set off towards the Parramatta River Cycleway. We probably don't head in the right direction (hot tip: map out where you're keen to ride, then ask the people at the hire co. to point you in the right direction before you set off). Regardless, we end up on some beautiful foresty paths and riding by some pretty mangroves. Again, I didn't realise just how much wilderness there is right on the doorstep of this concrete jungle.
After a cycle – in the words of Aussie band The Chats – all I want and all I need, all I crave is a good pub feed. I've heard good things about the revamped Guildford Hotel, so we head there for fish and chips and a steak, and it delivers. Great food, excellent prices, in a welcoming dining room with a stylish glow-up.
As we roll back towards Marrickville, full of food and fresh air, I think about how much Parramatta surprised me – not just because we had fun, but because of what the place reveals about Sydney as a whole. Parramatta played such a significant role in Sydney's history – it was the second European settlement after Sydney Cove. Now, it's where the future of Sydney is being built, and a place where people from all over the world are shaping our city's story. Parramatta may be just down the road, but spending a couple of days here felt like travelling somewhere far richer than I expected – not just a getaway, but a glimpse into the layered, complicated and hopeful heart of modern Sydney. And that's a trip I'd take again.
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