logo
After 150 years, a prized box returns to an Indigenous nation in Canada: ‘I felt like royalty traveling with it'

After 150 years, a prized box returns to an Indigenous nation in Canada: ‘I felt like royalty traveling with it'

The Guardian01-07-2025
When the plane took off from Vancouver's airport, bound north for the Great Bear Rainforest, Q̓íx̌itasu Elroy White felt giddy with excitement.
The plane traced a route along the Pacific Ocean and British Columbia's coast mountains, still snow-capped in late May.
Inside the cramped plane, White, who serves as an elected councillor and hereditary chief for the Heiltsuk nation, glanced often at the seat next to him and thought about his mission: bringing his travelling companion home for the first time in nearly 150 years.
Hidden underneath a large grey flight bag and packaged carefully was an ancient cedar bentwood box.
'I felt like royalty, traveling with the box,' said White, who is trained as an archaeologist. 'And as I sat on the plane, it really hit me what I was doing on behalf of the nation: I was bringing home a belonging – not an object.'
When he landed, a group of artists were waiting, eager to view first-hand an object they had only seen in books, online and – if they travelled far enough – in a museum or gallery.
In late May, the prized box was honoured by the Heiltsuk in their big house during ceremonies to ratify their nation's new constitution. But the unlikely return of the box underscores the challenges facing Indigenous communities in a protracted battle to reclaim items pillaged from their lands and now displayed in museums and private collections.
Bentwood boxes are crafted from a single piece of cedar wood that has been curved on three sides through steam and fastened shut on the fourth with wooden pegs. Perfected by coastal Indigenous communities over centuries, the boxes were both ceremonial and practical. The watertight containers were often used to store food and valuable goods and were invaluable on canoe voyages across sections of the Pacific.
But before taking on its distinctive shape, each box begins as a strip of western red cedar wood, carefully removed from the trunk of a living giant in the woods. The technique, known as bark stripping, often leaves a large rectangular bark-strip scar visible centuries later. The oldest living culturally modified tree ever discovered in the province dates back to 1186 CE.
'Our ancestors removed planks and then gave thanks to the tree,' said White. 'They took nothing more than was needed.'
The box that White had tenderly returned home was among the many that had taken unlikely journeys to lands that did not have the revered trees.
Beginning in the late 1800s, federal 'Indian agents' and missionaries plundered coastal communities, often under the guise of conservation. The removal of items with deep cultural value coincided with Canada's ban on the potlatch, a gift-giving ceremony that had long underpinned relations between clans and neighbouring nations.
Many of the items were sold under duress. Mortuary poles, masks and bentwood boxes were scattered all over the world, eagerly snapped up by museums and private collectors. Occasionally, a piece would surface at auction.
In 2020, while searching for a piece of jewellery, Janet and Dave Deisley, a couple based in Salt Lake City, Utah, spotted a bentwood box for auction in Vancouver.
The pair had spent years in Alaska, South America and British Columbia, purchasing contemporary pieces from Indigenous artists. They developed a particular love for Inuit stone carvings and prints, as well as Coast Salish masks.
'I was always interested in bentwood boxes, but never had bought one,' said Dave.
The box was unique: its heavy lid was inlaid with shimmering snail shells. All the auction house could say was that the box was from the 1880s and designed by an artist from the Heiltsuk nation – a people renowned for their craftsmanship.
And so the couple bought the box. But back home in Salt Lake City, the excitement around it soon faded.
'It just had this incredible beauty, but never really seemed to fit anywhere in our house. It never felt right and I couldn't figure out why,' Janet said. 'I felt bad for it. It was just sitting there on its own in this, you know, sort of formal living room in the desert.'
Through personal contacts, the couple set out to do what they believed was right: return the box. But what seemed like a simple idea contained a multitude of logistical hurdles.
'There isn't just a number you call and it's not something that can be done in a week,' Janet said. 'The chief said if we could get it to Vancouver, to the Coastal First Nations office, they would find a way to get it up to the community in a respectful manner.'
For more than a year it sat in the office in downtown Vancouver until the Heiltsuk community worked out a plan that involved White escorting it back to the town of Bella Bella.
'The existential question is: what's a historic red cedar box, that came to life in the BC coastal community over 100 years ago, doing in a modern house in the Utah desert?' saids Janet. 'There was really no satisfactory answer for that. There was never any thought that it should end up in a museum. It had to go home.'
The returned box represents a broader effort by the Heiltsuk nation to repatriate more than 1,000 items at more than three dozen institutions around the world – and countless private collections.
Over the past decade, the nation has developed a digital database to accompany an extensive list of objects and ancestral remains, first developed in the 1980s.
White said he has noticed a dramatic shift in how museums handle repatriation efforts, with many eager to begin discussions over the lengthy and challenging process of returning items. First Nations communities often bear the financial burden of repatriation and a new report estimates it would cost nearly C$663m (£353m) over five years to the fund repatriation for all 204 First Nations in British Columbia.
The community has successfully repatriated four items since 2022, including a chief's seat carved by the acclaimed Heiltsuk artist and chief Captain Richard Carpenter (Dúqvay̓ḷá Hawallis). The ornate seat, once behind glass in the Royal British Columbia Museum, now sits in the community's big house.
'Smoke, ashes and dust are going to land on the seat because it is no longer a museum piece. It was never meant to be,' said White. 'And the box is now in the chief's room as a reminder to us of a path that was long ago when these boxes were so plentiful.'
But private collections represent a 'vast unknown' with little indication of how many items remain in homes.'There's a despair knowing that items created in the territory for the chiefs and their families are now owned by somebody they were never intended for,' he said.
Numerous items from that era – including a similar bentwood box – remain up for sale on auction sites.
White said the 'no-strings attached' gesture by Janet and Dave Deisley has inspired others to reach out to return items, including a pair of ornate paddles gifted to a missionary family in the late 1800s.
'More items will eventually come, but the Heiltsuk nation isn't rushing anything, because we don't have a museum and our culture centre is full,' said White, reflecting a broader concern of communities repatriating items.
'We need our own museum, but it can't be a museum like where these belongings came from. It has to be designed in a way that benefits our people first – not for outside tourists or researchers – Heiltsuk first,' he said.
'Our people were still going out and practising their food and cedar bark gathering, carrying out potlatches in their own villages,' White said. 'And this box represents that moment in time before the potlatch ban.'
For nearly 150 years, any Heiltsuk artist wanting to experience the art and craftsmanship of their ancestors needed to travel outside the community.
'To realise that the descendants of these artists have never seen the pieces created by their ancestors – this is wrong,' said Janet. 'It's fair to say we would never purchase another historic piece like this again.'
The Heiltsuk nation gave Janet and Dave a modern bentwood box as a thank-you gift.
'The young local artist knew immediately which one he wanted to give them,' said White. 'For years, his work has been inspired by Heiltsuk boxes that were in museums. But now there's one here for him to learn from.'
At the end of May, after the box had been welcomed in dance, song and feasting, prominent artists gathered with community members to study it, assessing the subtle differences in style between coastal nations.
Outside, rain poured down on to the forest and the mammoth cedar trees that have sustained the Heiltsuk for generations.
'There is probably still is a tree out there, standing in our forest, that has half its wood removed so that an artist could make this box,' said White. 'And so in more than one way, after such a long journey, it has returned home.'
Orange background

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Comments

No comments yet...

Related Articles

This heritage-listed national park in NSW will take you on a journey back in time
This heritage-listed national park in NSW will take you on a journey back in time

Time Out

time2 days ago

  • Time Out

This heritage-listed national park in NSW will take you on a journey back in time

Looking for an immersive escape into Australia's ancient past? You don't have to travel too far. Up the NSW North Coast is Dorrigo National Park, a World Heritage-listed sanctuary that's part of the ancient Gondwana Rainforest. Renowned for its breathtaking waterfalls, walking tracks and elevated 'Skywalk' lookout, the park offers an unforgettable escape into incredible Aussie wilderness. Wander through dense rainforests filled with giant stinging trees (yes, really), vibrant birdlife and hidden rock pools, or join an Aboriginal cultural tour to connect with the rich Gumbaynggirr heritage of the area. What are the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia? The Gondwana Rainforests of Australia, which include Dorrigo National Park, are a living link to that prehistoric world. Spanning more than 40 protected areas from Queensland to NSW, these forests are known for their unique biodiversity and evolutionary history. Dorrigo National Park was added to the World Heritage List in 1986 for a number of reasons, including its ancient origins connecting it to the ancient Gondwana Rainforests. Where is Dorrigo National Park? Dorrigo National Park is one hour from Coffs Harbour on the NSW North Coast. How do I get to Dorrigo National Park? To get there from Sydney, travel north along the Pacific Hwy/A1. It should take you just under six hours for this 550-kilometre road trip. Don't want to drive? You can also take the North Coast train that departs four times a day from Central Station and get off at Urunga Station. You will then need a taxi to drive inland for another hour. This journey should take around nine hours. Start your adventure at the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre to get visitor information, book a guided tour, find out which walking tracks will best suit you, or go to the Skywalk Lookout for stunning views out to Coffs Harbour. What can I see at Dorrigo National Park? We've got three words for you: walks, waterfalls, wildlife. And they're all wonderful. Walks: Trails range from short and easy to long and challenging. The Lyrebird Link Track is ideal for birdwatchers and beginners, while the Casuarina Falls Circuit offers sweeping views of Dorrigo Mountain. Waterfalls: The park has many spectacular waterfalls. For instance, Crystal Shower Falls lets you walk behind the cascade. Wildlife: Dorrigo National Park is home to many different animals, including 30 types of mammals, more than 128 kinds of birds and 44 species of amphibians and reptiles. Keep your eyes open for red-necked pademelons or wompoo fruit-doves fluttering through the canopy. If you're lucky (and very quiet), you might spot the elusive southern angle-headed dragon clinging to a tree trunk. When is the best time to visit Dorrigo National Park? Dorrigo National Park is always open but may have to close at times due to bad weather or fire danger, so check before you go. Spring is ideal if you love birdsong – a good time for spotting lyrebirds on the Lyrebird Link Track. Given that the area is a rainforest, summer is a welcome respite from the heat, with the tree canopy and cool mist from the waterfalls. Three must-see, must-do activities at Dorrigo National Park Lyrebird Link Track: Less than a kilometre, it's a great spot for birdwatching, plus, there are picnic and barbecue areas nearby. Casuarina Falls Circuit: This 6.6km loop should take under two hours and rewards you with cascading falls, rainforest valleys and moss-covered trees. Aboriginal Cultural Tours: Held on Wednesdays (book in advance), a Gumbaynggirr Ranger will share their Indigenous language and culture as they guide you through the rainforest. Tips for visiting Dorrigo National Park Download the NSW National Parks app before you leave – it's free and works offline for maps and guides. Get it in the App Store or on Google Play. Bring binoculars if you're into birdwatching – you'll want a closer look at those bowerbirds and fruit-doves. There are picnic tables, barbecues and toilet facilities throughout the park. Mobile reception is limited, but there's Wi-Fi at the Rainforest Centre. Layer up as it can get chilly, take a rain jacket, and wear comfy walking shoes. Details Dorrigo Rainforest Centre 142 Dome Road, Dorrigo Mountain, NSW 2453 Open 9am to 4.30pm daily. Closed Christmas Day. .. Want more road trip inspo? .

Fun fact: Australia has 8,222 islands — and you probably never knew they existed
Fun fact: Australia has 8,222 islands — and you probably never knew they existed

Time Out

time2 days ago

  • Time Out

Fun fact: Australia has 8,222 islands — and you probably never knew they existed

Okay, we lied to you. There's a good chance you can name at least one Australian island (ahem, Tasmania), but with 8,222 official islands scattered around our coastline, odds are you've never heard of most of them. What's even cooler is that Australia has the eighth-highest number of islands on Earth – not bad for a country that's technically an island itself. This ranking is drawn from WorldAtlas, cross-checked with 2025 updates from World Population Review, which compiled its global tally of islands by aggregating national records, land surveys and satellite imagery. Generally, a landmass – inhabited or not – is classified as an island if it is surrounded by water at high tide. While some countries set thresholds for size or coastline length, artificial islands, offshore rocks and sandbanks that disappear at high tide are typically excluded. From Tasmania to the Torres Strait, Australia and its external territories comprise 8,222 islands scattered throughout the Pacific, Indian and Southern Oceans, as well as the Coral and Timor Seas. These islands vary wildly – from tiny, rocky outcrops uninhabited by humans to massive landmasses twice the size of the Australian Capital Territory. Barely more than a speck in the sea, Snapper Island in Sydney Harbour is perhaps Australia's smallest island, measuring roughly one hectare – barely the size of a soccer field. Another hidden gem is North Reef Island, a sand cay in the Great Barrier Reef spanning just 1.4 hectares. Mostly a sanctuary for sea turtles and seabirds, it sometimes disappears beneath the waves at high tide — so definitely not the spot for rolling out a picnic rug. If we were ever stranded on an island, we'd want to be stuck on the larger side of the spectrum. Take Tasmania – Australia's largest island and only island state, covering 68,401 square kilometres and home to more than half a million people. Then there's Melville Island, the country's second-largest at 5,786 square kilometres. Part of the Northern Territory's Tiwi Islands, it's a place of stunning remote beauty and rich Indigenous culture, though far less known than Tassie. Other popular Aussie islands you've probably heard of include Kangaroo Island – a wildlife wonderland off the coast of South Australia; K'gari (Fraser Island) – the world's largest sand island located off Queensland; and the beautiful Whitsunday Islands – home to Australia's best beach. Then there are the more obscure ones, like uninhabited Heard Island – home to Australia's only active volcano (Big Ben); and Warraber Island (Sue Island) – our smallest populated island with just 250 residents. Want to impress with your island trivia? Here's a peek at countries with more islands than Australia. These are the 10 countries with the most islands Sweden – 267,570 Norway – 239,057 Finland – 178,947 Canada – 52,455 United States – 18,617 Indonesia – 17,504 Japan – 14,125 Australia – 8,222 Philippines – 7,641 Chile – 5,000 😱

Interactive train exhibit celebrates 200 years of the railway
Interactive train exhibit celebrates 200 years of the railway

BBC News

time3 days ago

  • BBC News

Interactive train exhibit celebrates 200 years of the railway

A train with hands-on interactive exhibits to celebrate 200 years of the railway has arrived in Inspiration is a mobile exhibition touring the UK as part of national will be at Horsted Keynes, one of the stations on the heritage Bluebell Railway line, and will be open from 23 to 29 marks the anniversary of the world's first public railway to use steam trains, the Stockton and Darlington railway, which began running in 1825. A project by the National Railway Museum, Inspiration features exhibits on how railways changed the world, hands-on displays on railway engineering and on how the future of the industry might Bluebell Railway will be running extra services from its other stations in East Grinstead and Sheffield Park to Horsted Keynes to link up with the display. Jon Beardmore, business development manager at the Bluebell Railway, said: "We're delighted to have Inspiration with us for a week at the start of the school holidays."This will be the best chance for people in Sussex and Surrey to see it in 2025."Tickets are available in advance, with the national tour ending with visits to Paddington and Victoria stations in December.

DOWNLOAD THE APP

Get Started Now: Download the App

Ready to dive into a world of global content with local flavor? Download Daily8 app today from your preferred app store and start exploring.
app-storeplay-store