The rise of artisanal fashion in Kashmir: Craft, culture, and community

India Today

27-05-2025

As the global fashion industry pivots toward sustainability, artisanal revival, and ethical supply chains, Kashmir—often spoken of in terms of its conflict—emerges as a fertile ground for a quieter, more powerful revolution: the regeneration of indigenous craftsmanship through women-led entrepreneurship. In a region historically known for its Pashmina wool, Tilla embroidery, and Pherans, Iqra's story represents not just a personal pivot from academia to design but the broader transformation of Kashmir's craft ecosystem into an entrepreneurial engine with social, cultural, and economic impact.advertisementIndia Today spoke with Iqra Ahmad, founder of Tul Palav, a luxury fashion label from Srinagar, to get more insights on this.FOSTERING WOMEN'S PARTICIPATION IN CULTURAL ECONOMIESThere is growing attention to the role of fashion and craft enterprises in facilitating women's economic inclusion, especially in regions with limited formal employment avenues. Industry models that focus on mentorship, peer learning, and internships help equip the next generation of women with the skills needed to lead and innovate within the sector. Strategic collaborations with institutions offering formal design education have also contributed to a more skilled local workforce and fostered entrepreneurship amongst rural women.As fashion becomes increasingly globalized, maintaining the integrity of regional craft traditions presents a critical challenge. Design philosophies that centre authenticity, rather than fusion, seek to highlight traditional forms in their original context. Reviving lesser-known or endangered craft techniques and embedding them within culturally rooted narratives helps preserve the intangible heritage while aligning with international standards of artisanal luxury.EVOLUTION OF THE DESIGNGlobal interest in regional craftsmanship has provided crucial validation and direction for many cultural enterprises. Diaspora engagement often serves as the initial bridge to international recognition, which then expands to broader markets. Exposure to global audiences has encouraged the refinement of techniques and narratives while also reinforcing the value of cultural specificity in design. Such feedback loops are instrumental in shaping a design philosophy that is both rooted and responsive.Diaspora communities often play a critical role in amplifying regional crafts and cultural enterprises on the international stage. Their dual familiarity with local traditions and global contexts makes them powerful advocates for indigenous art forms. In the case of Kashmir, diaspora-led cultural events and festivals abroad have helped spotlight traditional garments and craft techniques, fostering global recognition. This dynamic not only bridges cultural gaps but also enables craft-led brands to connect with wider, more diverse audiences. Such organic networks offer alternative routes to global markets, beyond conventional fashion circuits.advertisement