Savour Spain's gastronomic island

Telegraph

11-03-2025

Tenerife might not be the first Spanish destination that springs to mind for food and drink, but to locals and those in the know, the island has had an incredible and innovative food scene for centuries.
A new generation of chefs has also brought a fresh look to classic Canarian cuisine, using produce from the bountiful island and the bracing Atlantic Ocean that surrounds it, and Tenerife now has 10 Michelin stars across eight restaurants. Wine is also big business on the island, and you'll spot vineyards as much as you will banana plantations as you travel the diverse Tinerfeño landscape.
'Farewell, my hearts: I will to my honest knight Falstaff, and drink Canary with him,' says The Host in Shakespeare's The Merry Wives of Windsor. He's referring to Canary sack, a sweet wine that was produced in La Orotava valley in the north of Tenerife back in the 1500s. The bard himself was a big fan and supposedly had a barrel of Canary wine written into his contract. Wine has been produced in Tenerife for centuries, since the Spanish brought vines to the island in the 15th century.
Taste the volcano
These days the wines are less fortified, and Tenerife's volcanic terroir paired with native grape varieties means that bottles are much prized around the globe. In La Orotava, you'll spot grape vines growing in the cordón trenzado method, where they're braided in long horizontal rows to make the most of the sunshine. Bodegas Suertes del Marqués has been the driving force behind the modern Canarian wine scene, putting it once again on the international stage. Most wineries offer visits and tastings, but try Bodegas Tajinaste for wines made from the native listán negro grapes that often produce flavours of sour cherry, raspberries and black pepper. On the opposite side of the mountain near Arafo, you'll find one of the island's highest vineyards, Bodegas Ferrera at more than 1,000m above sea level, whose naturally sweet marmajuelo white wine with notes of melon and grapefruit shouldn't be missed. For a true taste of the island's viticultural prowess, make a pilgrimage to La Casa del Vino in the idyllic town of El Sauzal, where some of the island's best wines can be paired with stunning views of the Atlantic.
It's because of wine that Tenerife can possibly claim the idea of the first pop-up restaurants. Known as guachinches, these rustic canteens have been cropping up for decades at the end of the wine harvest each September. Vineyards create cheap and cheerful eating spots in their barns, garages and sheds and serve simple Canarian cuisine, such as grilled meat, fried cheese, and papas arrugadas (salty baby potatoes served with either red pepper or coriander mojo sauces) along with their own wines. There are restrictions on how long these makeshift restaurants can be open, but if you're around the north of the island in autumn you'll often spot handmade signs on the side of the road pointing out a nearby guachinche.
Mar y montaña – sea and mountains
Good-quality produce has always been a staple of Tinerfeño gastronomy, and you'll find weekly agricultural markets across the island. Head to the capital Santa Cruz de Tenerife on a weekend and you'll find the covered municipal market known as La Recova. Here there are stalls selling fabulous Canarian cheeses, often made from goat's milk, as well as fresh fruit, wines, honey rum, meat and seafood. Venture downstairs to the fish and seafood section and watch as the merchants carefully select, prepare and serve a plethora of shellfish to hungry patrons – often swilled down with a local sparkling wine. At nearby La Hierbita restaurant you can feast on local dishes such as garbanzada (chickpea stew), cherne (wreckfish, which tastes a bit like cod), and carne fiesta (herby, spiced pork) along with a comprehensive list of local wines.
You'll find versions of these dishes and ingredients served up in many of the Michelin-starred restaurants on the island. At Haydée – soon to be reopening in the Gran Tacande Hotel – chef Victor Suárez puts a unique twist on classic Canarian with plates such as oysters with banana kimchi, and rabbit tartlet with salmorejo (a traditional marinade of oregano, bay, garlic and more). Elsewhere, husband-and-wife team Andrea and Fernanda use their Italian and Chilean roots to create their signature tasting menus at Nub at Bahía del Duque resort. With dishes such as corn crème brûlée, with aged onion and herb ceviche, it's little wonder that the Michelin inspectors are consistently impressed.
Tenerife beyond the beach
With multiple airlines flying direct to Tenerife from the UK every day, it's time to find out more, plan your travel and book your trip with the Tenerife Tourism Corporation