EXCLUSIVE I discovered the Rome of Croatia - with £2.50 pints and the world's most well-preserved Roman amphitheatre but none of the Colosseum's crowds

Daily Mail​

2 days ago

Standing in the middle of this huge Roman amphitheatre, in awe of the ancient architecture I'm surrounded by, I can't quite believe this isn't the Colosseum itself.
But rather than being in Italy, I'm in Croatia.
Pula Arena, on the west coast of the country in Pula, was built between 27 BC and 68 AD. It is widely regarded to be the best-preserved Roman arena in the world, with almost the entire circumference and all four side towers completely intact.
And, rather than spending hours queuing as you would to get into the Colosseum, my group and I simply breezed straight inside – and almost have the entire tourist attraction to ourselves to roam around and explore.
It's not just the arena that's an exceptionally well-kept Roman ruin in Pula.
The city centre is also home to the Temple of Augustus, a church-turned-museum constructed between the year 2 BC and AD 14; the Arch of the Sergii, a triumphal arch that was originally a city gate built as a symbol of victory at Actium; and many city walls and mosaics, including one very impressive floor mosaic that was found in the remains of a Roman house after World War II.
In its day, Pula Arena could hold around 23,000 spectators ready to watch gladiatorial fights.
Today, it's an intimate music venue, able to hold around 7,000.
Duran Duran, Sir Elton John and Dua Lipa have all played the Pula Arena, and when I'm there, it's still set up from Sir Tom Jones' performance a couple of nights before.
In fact, I'm gutted to learn that Sir Tom checked out of the hotel I'm staying in, the Grand Brioni Hotel Pula, the day before I checked in.
Although, with a whopping 227 rooms and 12 suites in the Radisson Collection property, it's unlikely I would've bumped into the Sex Bomb crooner during my stay.
Sat on the tip of Croatia's Istrian Peninsula, the Grand Brioni was voted the best in Croatia in 2023 following a £30 million renovation - and I quickly find out why.
This is a four-star hotel with everything that a five-star has to offer.
The sprawling property is decked out in marble, with Roman-influenced artwork and splashes of blue everywhere.
But the pièce de résistance is the very long infinity pool stretched out across the roof, looking out onto sweeping views of the Adriatic.
Hayley's room looks out on to the Istrian Riviera. She says: 'The views are beautiful (and worth upgrading for) and the bed is supremely comfortable, coming with a choice of seven pillows'
Hayley says: 'Despite the Grand Brioni being so huge, I always manage to secure a sunbed and find it surprisingly peaceful and secluded, sunbathing here constantly'
Despite the Grand Brioni being so huge, I always manage to secure a sunbed and find it surprisingly peaceful and secluded, sunbathing here constantly, while sipping on the hotel's twist on an Aperol spritz, a Teranino spritz.
I only stop to take the steps down to the hotel's private beach to jump in the sea, and to pop to the spa for a glorious hour-long massage.
The rooms are excellent, too.
I have a Collection Superior room with a Panoramic Sea View, looking out to the Istrian Riviera.
The views are beautiful (and worth upgrading for) and the bed is supremely comfortable, coming with a choice of seven plump pillows - each of them differently stuffed to suit everyone's taste.
The same can certainly be said of the buffet breakfast.
From made-to-order omelettes and coffee served by baristas to a huge selection of cakes (because who doesn't want to eat dessert first thing in the morning?) and fresh fruit, you really couldn't go wrong.
The selection of foods is just as vast for dinner, but I recommend splashing out on a meal at Sophia, the hotel's restaurant. It's named after actress Sophia Loren, who once stayed at the Grand Brioni.
She finishes: 'Just when I think the night can't get any more perfect, there are audible gasps as a pod of dolphins starts performing flips for us in the distance. It's as if they're waving us goodbye on our final night – but I'll definitely be coming back'
Here, I have a delicious meal spanning octopus, beef carpaccio and some of the most tender Kobe beef I've ever eaten – all while looking out over a stunning sunset.
And just when I think the night can't get any more perfect, there are audible gasps as a pod of dolphins starts performing flips for us in the distance.
It's as if they're waving us goodbye on our final night – but I'll definitely be coming back.
Who needs Rome?