Why a Mexican restaurant is among the first places you should eat in Copenhagen

Los Angeles Times

a day ago

Finding great Mexican food in unexpected places. Losing the city of L.A.'s oldest restaurant. A guide to the vegan ice cream boom. The Italian potatoes that changed Jenn Harris' mind about fat fries. And 'some guy on Tripadvisor.' I'm Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week's Tasting Notes.
As Angelenos, we don't think twice about eating Mexican food one day, Thai food the next and Korean food the day after that. Weekend breakfast with friends is as likely to be Chinese rice porridge as it is a plate of buckwheat pancakes or chilaquiles. In fact, we rarely bother to break down our dining choices by cuisine. It's more, let's go get some ramen or birria or boat noodles.
But when we travel, we tend to eat more conservatively. With limited time in a new place, we usually stick to what we perceive as the food of the country we're visiting. Trying to find decent Mexican food in Italy, for instance, while not impossible, isn't easy in a country that prizes the joys of hyper-regionality. You take a risk ordering pasta alla carbonara (a seemingly simple dish that's hard to perfect if you don't take your time with the guanciale) outside of Rome or tortellini en brodo in any Italian region other than Emilia-Romagna.
And yet, when I landed in Copenhagen late last month, with all the glories of smørrebrød and cutting-edge Nordic cuisine to explore — including two places in the city (Noma and Geranium) named at different points the No. 1 restaurant in the world on the World's 50 Best list — the first place I headed was a Mexican restaurant.
Of course, the restaurant, Sanchez, is no ordinary Mexican spot. The owner, Rosio Sanchez, was the head pastry chef for Rene Redzepi at Noma for five years before opening her first Copenhagen taqueria, Hija de Sanchez, in 2015. She briefly returned to collaborate with Redzepi on Noma's 2017 Mexico pop-up in Tulum. If a real-life version of 'The Bear' character Marcus (Lionel Boyce) had been sent to Copenhagen for pastry chef training at the world's best restaurant in 2014, Sanchez likely would have been his mentor, not Will Poulter's character Luca. Indeed, Sanchez appears in the series' chef-packed Season 3 finale talking about why she loves to cook. And one of Sanchez's former chefs, Laura Cabrera, has risen to lead her own kitchen at the zero-waste restaurant Baldío in Mexico City.
When I first ate Sanchez's Mexican cooking in 2016 at Hija de Sanchez, I was immediately struck by the skill of her tortilla making, not easy in a place where masa is not readily available, and the way she was able make food that felt completely Mexican while incorporating Danish ingredients — a fjord shrimp taco, for instance, or gooseberry salsa. Never mind that as she told Margy Rochlin in this paper during a 2017 guest chef appearance at the L.A. Times Food Bowl with Sqirl's Jessica Koslow, some of her first customers in Copenhagen called tortillas 'pancakes.' Or that when she saw Danes eating tacos with a fork and knife she had an illustrated and nonjudgmental 'how to eat your taco' poster made. Since those early days, Copenhagen eaters have taken to her tacos. There are now five Hija de Sanchez taquerias across the city.
But Sanchez was not solely interested in exploring tacos. At the end of 2017 she opened Sanchez, a restaurant that elevates Mexican cuisine while still keeping it approachable. In its current form, the restaurant offers a five-course tasting menu for the rough equivalent of $82 with the option of an even more affordable three-course meal for about $59. If you want still more, you can add extra courses — such as an oyster with a sauce of habanero and sea buckthorn, or a slender bean, sheep cheese and cured egg burrito.
The oyster was a good, bracing start. And lime-cured langoustine ceviche, served aguachile style, with a verde sauce and fermented tomato water, kept the freshness going. But it was the salbute, with a jolt of intense corn from the puffed fried tortilla and layers of deep, complex flavors from chicken cooked in recado negro sauce, made with charred chiles, plus grilled bladderwrack seaweed in place of lettuce, a quail egg and a drizzle of habanero-árbol chile oil that showed how Sanchez is combining tradition, local ingredients and her own new way of approaching Mexican food.
Monkfish cheek, marinated al pastor style, beautifully charred and served with herbs on a lightly charred lettuce leaf came next. It all led to carnitas tacos that we assembled ourselves with freshly made tortillas, herbs, salsa, pickled jalapeño and onion, plus, because this is Copenhagen, green sea buckthorn.
The night's most memorable dish, however, was dessert. The menu's description was understated: chocolate mousse. But what is usually a satisfying but unexciting dish came out with a ring of salsa macha, crunchy with pumpkin seeds and preserved ancho chiles, a layer of whipped cream and, for good measure, roasted kelp and drips of olive oil. The mousse itself was made chocolate from Chiapas and hid a nugget of more chiles underneath.
The spicy and sweet flavors felt both old and new. It's the kind of dish that shows that Mexican cuisine even thousands of miles away from Mexico itself is still evolving. Now if only we could get Sanchez to open a branch of her restaurant here in L.A.
It's been a tough week for L.A. restaurants. Karla Marie Sanford reports that Cole's French Dip, which opened in 1908, making it the city's oldest restaurant, will close its doors on Aug. 2. 'By the time the Olympics get here, all these mom and pops will be gone,' said Brian Lenzo, senior vice president of operations for Cedd Moses' Pouring With Heart, which took over the downtown L.A. restaurant in 2008. 'Hopefully it's a wakeup call for the right people to step up and figure out a plan.'
Another downtown loss: David Schlosser announced that his rigorous Japanese-focused restaurant Shibumi — last year he recreated a 1789 Japanese banquet — will permanently close on July 19.
Senior food editor Danielle Dorsey reports that Alisa Reynolds' soul food bistro My 2 Cents, on The Times' 101 Best Restaurants in L.A. list, will close on July 31 after 12 years on Pico Boulevard. Reynolds plans to focus on catering, pop-ups and collaborations.
And Lauren Ng reports that Melody, the Virgil Village natural wine bar that hosted many pop-ups during its nearly 10 years in business, will close this weekend, though owner Eric Tucker will open a temporary 'Bar Band-Aid' pizza spot on July 16 until the Craftsman bungalow space can be sold.
But there are some signs of resilience even in this tough climate. Ng spent time at the recently reopened El Gato Night Market, which shut down for two weeks after ICE raids heated up in Los Angeles. Though more than half of the market's 70 to 80 vendors had not returned in the first days of the reopening and business was slow at first, the crowds started to return after a few days. 'Vendors, many of whom worry for their safety and the future of their businesses, show up for work out of necessity,' Ng writes, 'but also to provide comfort and familiarity for customers, most of whom are Latino and often bring their young children.'
Meanwhile, when Maria Sanchez, known on social media as 'Maria la de los Burritos,' was asked to leave her usual burrito-selling spot outside a Home Depot after ICE raids started happening, she was undeterred. She packed her gold-foil-wrapped burritos in the trunk of her car and found eager customers at construction sites. Her carne asada burritos typically sell out in 30 minutes. Contributor Madeleine Connors profiles the maker of these internet-viral burritos that are also doing some good for L.A. workers.
Restaurants handle negative customer feedback in different ways. Some, as this sign seen outside the burger bar Sliders in Copenhagen, embrace it. The invitation: 'Try the worst sliders some guy on Tripadvisor has ever had in his entire life alongside enjoying our 'terrible service.' ' It certainly got my attention. If I hadn't already filled up on smørrebrød, I would have stopped in for a 'lamb za'atar spectacular' or 'decadent Dane' (beef patty, melted Danish cheese, caramelized onions and pickled apple) slider.