Seoul is a city perpetually in motion and this is why it's well worth visiting

Sydney Morning Herald

21-06-2025

This story is part of the June 22 edition of Sunday Life. See all 15 stories.
The Seoul air hangs heavy and humid around me, thick enough to taste the soy sauce, sizzling garlic and exhaust fumes. Traffic fills the streets, food hawkers noisily advertise their wares and office workers messily squeeze onto pavements as they make their way home in one large mass.
Seoul possesses that particular urban hum – a thrum of human activity that speaks of a city perpetually in motion – but away from the neon-lit high-rises and the flashy fast-fashion, there's more than what first meets the eye.
Synonymous with K-pop and kimchi, South Korea flew under the radar until the past decade or so. However, after Psy's infectious Gangnam Style wormed its way into our collective consciousness and Squid Game became a TV phenomenon, both the East Asian country and its capital city have had a moment.
A great beginning is the historic Bukchon Hanok Village. Dating back centuries, its winding laneways offer a stark contrast to the surrounding urban sprawl. While popular with tourists, venturing up the steeper alleys rewards you with quiet stretches and stunning panoramic views over tiled rooftops to the cityscape beyond.
A glimpse into Korea's 1700-year-old Buddhist heritage is never far away. The centrally located Jogyesa Temple is both significant and easily accessible. For a deeper immersion, many temples offer overnight experiences.
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Also Zen-inducing are jjimjilbang, the communal baths that are similar to the Japanese onsen, where you'll find warm baths, cold plunge pools, steam rooms and saunas. And if you're looking for something to do after all that relaxing, many jjimjilbang are located in multi-storey complexes that house restaurants and karaoke rooms.
To grasp the richness of Korean cuisine, there's no substitute for local markets, and Seoul's granddaddy is Gwangjang. Pile your plate high with kimchi, savoury pancakes, and hearty bibimbap. For the more adventurous palate, there is live octopus, blood sausage and pig trotters.
A more palatable option is Korean barbecue. Known locally as gogi-gui, it refers to the method of grilling meat on gas or charcoal grills inlaid into the dining tables. As a foreigner, it can be a daunting task to choose from the staggering number of 'meat houses' that sit on almost every corner. Out of all city districts, Mapo is the best-known for barbecue; 'mapo-style' means charcoal-grilled cuisine, and this is often complemented with aged kimchi, and a raucous atmosphere.