I've Visited California's Central Coast for 20+ Years—and This Is the Most Charming Small Town in the Region

Travel + Leisure

21-06-2025

Have a slice of the world-famous Pink Champagne Cake at the Golden State's kitschiest hotel, the Madonna Inn.
Shop and snack your way through San Luis Obispo's weekly farmers market, the largest in the county.
Take your pick from a bevy of award-winning local restaurants, including Nate's on Marsh and Ox + Anchor.
Go on a wine tour in one of the most underrated wine regions in California, the Central Coast American Viticultural Area.
Hike one of the Nine Sisters for stunning views of SLO and the surrounding hills.
In between Los Angeles and California, you'll find the rolling hills of California's Central Coast, dotted with idyllic vineyards and miles of stunning coastline. And there's perhaps no better home base to explore it from than its unofficial capital, San Luis Obispo.
I've grown up visiting SLO since I was a young girl, and I've watched it evolve from a sleepy college town (it's home to California Polytechnic State University) to a bustling travel destination. San Luis Obispo was founded by the Spanish all the way back in 1772, and you can still visit Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa today, the fifth mission ever built in California. Before Cal Poly opened its doors in 1901, the area was best known as a ranching hub, and cattle and dairy cows once dotted the hills. That laid-back, pastoral atmosphere, however, has endured to this day—and is part of what makes this town of a little under 50,000 people so special.
Take it from San Luis Obispo native Nathan Long. Long was born and raised in SLO. He lived in several cities for a few years, before deciding to return to open Nate's on Marsh, an upscale American-Italian restaurant, which got a Michelin Guide nod in 2022. 'The landscape hasn't changed a lot since I've grown up,' Long says.
SLO's newer residents agree, as well. Hollie West is the director of communications at San Luis Obispo's Chamber of Commerce and has lived in the area for 10 years. Like many others, she came to SLO to attend Cal Poly and couldn't bring herself to leave. And sure, other towns in the area, such as Monterey, with its famous aquarium, and or fairy tale-like Carmel-by-the-Sea, may be more well-known. But SLO has something else going for it—a quaintness that's hard to put your finger on.
"There's such a sense of community here for locals and visitors,' she says. 'It's a small town, so we have the small-town charm—everyone smiles at you and says hello.'
Here's what you need to know before planning a trip to San Luis Obispo. The Alex Madonna's Gold Rush Steak House at the Madonna Inn.
Wasim Muklashy/Visit San Luis Obispo
Before San Luis Obispo became a travel destination in and of itself, there was the Madonna Inn. Established in 1958 by local businessman Alex Madonna and his wife Phyllis, the Madonna is arguably one of the most famous hotels in the U.S and has been a landmark since its founding. For one thing, it's hard to miss it on the highway—it's very pink.
But the pink doesn't just end with the exterior. Inside, you'll find rosy shades of the reddish hue adorning everything from its roomy suites to the dining room booths to its legendary pink champagne cake. Each of the inn's 110 rooms are uniquely designed around fun themes such as the "Love Nest," "Just Heaven," and the "Caveman Room." The vibe here is decidedly kitsch and camp, in the best way possible. It's a visual and sensory overload—but that's all part of the fun. However, even if you don't stay here, a slice of pink champagne cake from the bakery is a must.
'Nothing says 'happy birthday' like the pink champagne cake,' says Long. 'Staying there is great ... but even just going for a cocktail is a sight to be seen.'
There's perhaps no place in town with a better location than Hotel SLO, which is sited just steps from the downtown strip and a block away from the mission. There are 78 cozy rooms here (including six suites), which have chic, minimalist design that lets their surroundings speak for themselves. Original, local artwork is on display throughout the property, and guests will find plenty of places to unwind, whether it's at the poolside Sol spa or the rooftop High Bar. While on the rooftop, you'll find a garden growing fresh herbs and veggies for the two on-site restaurants, Piadina and Ox + Anchor, which is in the Michelin Guide.
This oh-so petite boutique has just 17 rooms and suites, which range from snug to downright palatial. All accommodations come with thoughtful touches like elevated mini-bar fare, Bellino fine linens, and plush, jewel-toned furniture. A complimentary breakfast is included with the nightly rate at Petit Soleil and is made with ingredients sourced from the local farmers market. There's also a complimentary apéritif hour, which you can enjoy from the smartly decorated lobby or the dreamy outdoor patio garden. Oh, and did we mention Petit Soleil is pet-friendly?
Clean and cozy farmhouse-style chic abounds at San Luis Creek Lodge, an intimate bed and breakfast that earned a Michelin Key in 2024. The 25 rooms are divided among three separate buildings, and there's high-speed Wi-Fi throughout the property. As part of their stay, guests will get access to complimentary cruiser bicycles and a bagged breakfast of locally made goodies, but trust me—the property's enviable peace and quiet may just keep you in your room a bit longer.
The dining room inside Nate's on Marsh.
You'll find Nate's on Marsh a few minutes from downtown SLO in a renovated, homey bungalow that's decked out in ranch-style decor, a nod to the town's cattle-wrangling past. Dining here feels like eating at a friend's home—that is, if your friend could whip up a downright decadent vodka rigatoni. Though the restaurant has gained recognition and awards (including that Michelin nod in 2022), Long makes it clear that he's not resting on his laurels.
"If you think we're fine-dining fancy, you're mistaken," Long says. "This is classic spaghetti and meatballs, and Caesar salad. It's part of what people really appreciate around here. The simpler times.'
For al fresco dining in San Luis Obispo, it's hard to beat Novo. Pick a table on the restaurant's back deck, where you can enjoy the sights and sounds of San Luis Obispo Creek in between bites of dishes like ahi nachos, pork carnitas, and Thai chicken curry.
This Italian restaurant is many locals' go-to for celebrations, so you may have some competition snagging a table since Giuseppe's doesn't take reservations. If you ask me, the ravioli di zucca and salsiccia wood-fired pizza are both highlights, but even the pickiest eaters are sure to appreciate the far-ranging menu here.
Long before becoming the lunch spot of choice for Cal Poly SLO students, High Street Market and Deli served sandwiches to workers in the railroad district since it was established in 1927. The sandwiches are still a hot commodity today, so order well in advance to avoid getting stuck in line (or pick from the frequently restocked grab-and-go section). I recommend the Dutch Punch, a turkey-and-bacon-stuffed sandwich that's big enough for two meals.
Santa Maria-style barbecue is a Central Coast staple, and (in my humble opinion) Old SLO BBQ Co. grills up the best tri-tip sandwich in town. Pair it with a strawberry field salad and a salted caramel brownie for dessert.
The colorful Corazón Cafe specializes in classic Mexican breakfast and lunch dishes like chilaquiles with red salsa and fluffy tortas. Wash your meal down with fun drinks like the matchacha (a mix of matcha and horchata) or the mazapán latte, which is dusted with a layer of the popular peanut candy—it's my personal favorite. The exterior of the Ah Louis Store.
One of the few original buildings still standing in SLO's once-thriving Chinatown district, the Ah Louis Store was built in 1874 and was the county's first Chinese store. It's lived many lives over the years, serving as a post office and bank in the past, but these days, it's a party goods store that doubles as the headquarters of an event-planning business. Inside, not an inch of space goes to waste—you'll find everything from festive pickleball paddles to cute stationery supplies packed onto the shelves.
Described by Rolling Stone as 'the venerable little-shop-that-could,' Boo Boo Records has shelves overflowing with music memorabilia, CDs, and, of course, a huge selection of vinyl records. No turntable? No problem—you can snag one, plus accessories, while you're here.
You're sure to spot at least a few Cal Poly students rocking Moondoggies sweatshirts during your time in San Luis Obispo. To get one of your own, swing by the original Monterey Street outpost of this locally owned surf brand to check out beach-ready outfits, surf gear, and sea glass jewelry.
You'll find Idlewild's colorful dried flower arrangements in many of SLO's hotels and restaurants. You can either pick from a variety of premade bouquets or purchase individual dried blooms that you can make into your unique creation. You'll also find plenty of cute gift ideas for any moms and babies in your life.
For your next beach read or book club pick, head to Phoenix Books, a SLO icon that's been in business for over 40 years. Even if you go in just to browse, you're all but guaranteed to leave with something interesting in hand—and because of Cal Poly, you'll even find a selection of niche and rare used academic books that may be hard to find in any regular bookstore. People walking in downtown San Luis Obispo.
A series of ancient volcanic peaks known as the Nine Sisters surrounds San Luis Obispo. The most well-known of these is the Cerro San Luis Obispo, aka Madonna Mountain. I recommend the scenic Lemon Grove Loop, where you'll see cattle grazing on the hill's gentle slopes.
Other options include Terrace Hill, a quick jaunt in the middle of town, or the challenging Bishop Peak Trail. 'That hike is a tough one,' says Long. 'But once you get to the top, the views of Los Osos Valley and [the] town are just gorgeous.'
SLO's mild, Mediterranean-like climate is ideal for grape growing, and while it's not quite as well-known, the quickly growing wine region could give Napa and Sonoma a run for their money. The San Luis Obispo Coast AVA encompasses nearly 80 commercial vineyards, including Biddle Ranch Vineyard, Chamisal Vineyards, and Edna Valley Vineyard. Though all kinds of varietals thrive here, San Luis Obispo County is particularly famous for its chardonnays and pinot noirs, which thrive in the rocky, volcanic soil.
However much or little time you spend downtown, one mandatory stop is the Thursday night farmers market, a multi-block extravaganza of live performances, open-air barbecuing, and dozens of other shopping and food options on Higuera Street. It's one of the largest in the state, and the biggest in the county. 'The Thursday night farmers market is our staple event and is almost more of a street fair than a farmer's market,' says West. 'There's so much good food and live music. It's really fun and exciting, and it's a good way to see downtown.'
Built by media magnate William Randolph Hearst in the mid-20th century, Hearst Castle is a 45-minute drive up the coast from San Luis Obispo. Seeing this palatial home is well worth the trek, though. Tours range from one to four hours and allow you a peek into the lives of Hearst and his Hollywood Golden Age chums and paramours, including actors like Charlie Chaplin and Hedda Hopper.
Though San Luis Obispo isn't on the coast, it's still pretty easy to access whale-watching tours from nearby towns, where you can spot humpback or California gray whales during your visit. Just head 20 minutes north or south to the towns of Avila Beach and Morro Bay, where boats depart daily.
I suggest a trip with Sub Sea Tours & Kayaks in Morro Bay. Though whale sightings are never a guarantee, I saw several humpbacks feeding and playing in the waves. Just be aware that the water can get choppy, and the sea air is chilly even in the warmest months. As one guest on my tour said, 'Dress like you're going skiing.' Scenic view from Highway 101.
One of the easiest ways to get to San Luis Obispo is by simply flying into SLO County Airport (SBP), which is only three miles from downtown. The airport is serviced by major airlines like Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, and United Airlines.
However, the act of getting to San Luis Obispo is really half the charm. The city is about 192 miles north of Los Angeles and 231 miles south of San Francisco. No matter which metropolis you're coming from, you'll end up on parts of Highway 101, a gorgeous, historic road that rivals the much more famous Pacific Coast Highway.
But, maybe one of the best things about San Luis Obispo (if you're coming from L.A. or the Bay Area), is that you don't need to fly or drive to get there—you could simply hop on Amtrak's Pacific Surfliner, considered one of the most scenic routes in the U.S. Driving may save you a few hours, but the Surfliner's sweeping views of craggy beaches and wildflowers will more than make up for the extra time and effort.
'The train is a really great way to get here and start a trip off on a slow travel note,' says West. A street going through San Luis Obispo.
Unlike most small towns, you don't necessarily need a car to get around San Luis Obispo, especially if you're arriving by Amtrak. The station is just a short half-mile walk from the heart of the city, or, if you have wheels, SLO has abundant bike parking and lanes. The city also has a bus system, SLO Transit, as well as a free, seasonal downtown trolley service that traditionally runs in the summer. However, ride-hailing services such as Uber and Lyft are available in San Luis Obispo. Alternatively, if you're planning on exploring the greater Central Coast, car rentals are available at the SLO County Airport.