The Best Skin-Firming Tips to Smooth Under-Eye Wrinkles, Straight From Dermatologists

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3 days ago

Under-eye wrinkles are a common and often unavoidable part of the natural aging process, but certain at-home products, in-office treatments, and lifestyle habits can help minimize the intensity of their appearance.
Being able to identify whether you have dynamic wrinkles, static wrinkles, or wrinkle folds can help you determine the best path for treatment.
One of the best treatments is prevention: Lather up with SPF every day, starting as early in life as possible.Growing older brings many things, including under-eye wrinkles. 'Because the skin around the eyes is the thinnest on the face, it's one of the first areas to show signs of aging," says board-certified dermatologist Shereene Idriss, MD.
To be clear, the addition of these lines to your face isn't bad. Some might say their existence reflects the privilege of a life well-lived. Even so, if you look in the mirror one day and decide you just aren't feeling the crow's feet or crepey skin under your bottom lash line, you're not without options. According to skin experts, including dermatologists and a plastic surgeon, there are plenty of products, in-office treatments, and lifestyle choices that can help you modulate the intensity of under-eye wrinkles.
Below, experts share the leading causes of under-eye wrinkles, the different types of wrinkles, and some of the best ways to address the situation.Catherine Chang, MD, FACS, is a board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon and founder of Prive Beverly Hills and NakedBeauty MD.
Shereene Idriss, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist, founder of Idriss Dermatology in NYC, and founder of skincare line Dr. Idriss.
Melanie Palm, MD, MBA, is a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon.
Kristel D. Polder, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist.A leading cause of under-eye wrinkles comes from the natural aging process, Dr. Idriss says, specifically the loss of the structural proteins elastin and collagen in this delicate area where the skin is already naturally thin. Age is hardly the only factor, though. Some culprits are more within your ability to control (like smoking, poor diet, and dehydration) than others (like genetics).
For example, sun damage can speed up the effects of the aging process, given that UV exposure can exacerbate 'collagen breakdown, contributing to skin crepiness and deeper lines,' says board-certified plastic surgeon Catherine Chang, MD.
While diligent SPF application is a helpful tool to save you from the drawbacks of regularly catching rays, you may not want (or be able) to avoid other causes of under-eye wrinkles. 'Frequent facial expressions — like smiling or squinting — cause repeated muscle contractions around the eyes," Dr. Chang adds, "which over time lead to dynamic lines, even when we aren't emoting."
Not all under-eye wrinkles are the same, and identifying which type (or types) you have is important.
No one's suggesting you fight the urge to smile, frown, or emote in any way, but the small facial movements associated with these expressions are what can lead to a type of under-eye condition called dynamic wrinkles. "Dynamic wrinkles are caused by repeated muscle contractions, usually from smiling, frowning, or raising one's eyebrows,' says board-certified dermatologist Melanie Palm, MD, MBA. 'Common examples of dynamic wrinkles around the eyes are crow's feet.'
Sometimes, you won't be making any kind of a facial expression, but you'll still see wrinkles and lines under your eyes. That's totally normal: 'Over time [dynamic wrinkles] can evolve into static wrinkles, which remain visible even when the face is at rest,' says Dr. Idriss. They often show up and stay put thanks to the natural, age-related loss of collagen and elasticity in your skin, Dr. Palm adds.
As opposed to the wrinkles that come with dynamic and static wrinkles, crepey skin (or wrinkle folds) look like deeply creased or ridged skin pockets. Wrinkle folds 'are indicative of age-related volume loss in facial fat pads,' Dr. Palm says. 'These typically appear in the tear-trough area, causing noticeable grooves under the eyes.' It's often linked to lack of hydration and a loss of collagen, adds Dr. Idriss.
'At-home treatments can absolutely support skin health and help delay the progression of under-eye wrinkles when used consistently,' says Dr. Idriss. Here are some products to consider and ingredients to prioritize in your skin care.
One of the best 'treatments' available for all types of under-eye wrinkles is lifelong sun protection, and the earlier you start, the better. According to the pros, doing so can delay or potentially prevent the onset of wrinkles and at least help to reduce their potential intensity. 'Preventing under-eye wrinkles starts with protecting and preserving the skin. Wear the damn sunscreen,' says Dr. Idriss.
But sun protection doesn't stop with applying eye-safe sunscreen on the daily and reapplying as appropriate. Sunglasses are also particularly helpful for protecting against under-eye wrinkles, because 'they both protect against UV damage and reduce squinting,' Dr. Chang says. That makes them a double whammy for preventing the development of lines in the eye area. Additionally, Dr. Palm adds, wearing UPF hats and seeking shade during peak UV hours can also be helpful.
If you've been looking for a reason to spring for a red light therapy mask, consider yourself in luck. 'At-home products such as red light therapy and red light masks, dermarollers, and other over-the-counter devices can help improve the appearance of this area,' says board-certified dermatologist Kristel D. Polder, MD.
But these options typically aren't as strong as (and are often less effective than) in-office procedures. According to Dr. Polder, in order to notice an improvement in the appearance of your under-eye wrinkles using one of these devices, you'll likely need to commit to using it daily.
Retinol is often lauded as a skin care superhero for its anti-aging properties. This derivative of vitamin A is often included in serums and creams, and research backs up its ability to accelerate cell turnover and increase collagen production, Dr. Palm says.
'If you're sensitive to retinol, consider using a lower concentration and working your way up, or, use it in conjunction with bakuchiol, a plant-derived compound that has been shown to minimize retinol irritation,' she adds.
Regardless of whether you're generally sensitive to retinol, Dr. Chang suggests exercising caution when using the active ingredient on this delicate area of the face, noting it can be harsh for this type of skin.
'Also, be sure when applying an eye cream or treatment product that you are using your ring finger, as it's the most delicate,' Dr. Chang adds.
Caffeine doesn't just help you keep your eyes open when you're sleepy. It's also a key ingredient in skincare products that may be of interest for your under-eye area. 'Caffeine helps constrict blood vessels to minimize puffiness and dark circles,' says Dr. Chang. So while caffeine won't zap away your wrinkles, it can nevertheless contribute to a brighter, smoother appearance.
Hydrating eye creams and serums with the following ingredients offer a plumping effect that the experts say can help minimize the appearance of wrinkles:
Niacinamide, which is a brightening ingredient
Topical antioxidants, like vitamin C products, which brighten and reduce oxidative damage
Peptides, which support collagen and elastin production to thicken and strengthen the delicate under-eye skin.
Hyaluronic acid, which hydrates and plumps the skin
Ceramides, a hydrating ingredient that acts as a skin barrier, protecting against environmental damage and blocking water loss
Growth factors and topical exosomes, which encourage collagen and elastin production
While plenty of at-home solutions may help you care for your under-eye wrinkles, sometimes you want a more targeted option. For that, you'll want to see your doctor. "A well-formulated eye cream can act as a supportive tool in your routine," Dr. Idriss points out, "but it won't replace professional treatments when deeper wrinkles are a concern."
Selecting the appropriate treatment for you isn't necessarily a simple process, however. 'Every patient is unique, and therefore their treatment plan is individualized,' Dr. Palm says. 'There are many approaches to under-eye wrinkles that include non-invasive and invasive treatments. The most effective invasive treatments, such as laser resurfacing, have significant downtime.' Lasers can be highly effective in the under-eye area because they 'stimulate collagen production and help thicken the skin, improving texture and minimizing fine lines,' Dr. Chang adds.
Other in-office treatments that the pros recommend include neuromodulators (like Botox) which help limit the muscle movement that can cause dynamic wrinkles. Then there's hyaluronic acid filler, which Dr. Polder says can help restore volume loss and offer a refreshed look.
Ultimately, your best bet for landing on the most effective in-office or at-home treatment for your specific needs is to visit your dermatologist, who can help you land on a safe and effective regimen.
Read the original article on InStyle