HyLo Review: Enjoy The Robust Flavours Of Regional Indian Delights At This Kala Ghoda Restaurant

NDTV

18-05-2025

Mumbai's Kala Ghoda neighbourhood has long been one of the city's most iconic cultural hubs. The locality is home to different types of food establishments - from hole-in-the-wall cafes to grand fine-dining restaurants, from traditional bakeries to experimental bars. In recent times, one of the most distinctive new openings in this part of South Mumbai was that of HyLo - a restaurant and bar with a regional Indian focus. HyLo stands for "Hyper Local," and both its food and drink menus embody this theme in different ways. Some time ago, we had the chance to visit this restaurant and came away highly impressed with its offerings. Read our full review below:
HyLo is housed in a heritage building from the pre-independence era, situated right opposite the famous Kala Ghoda statue. This prime location undoubtedly complements part of its mission to celebrate the cosmopolitan and diverse spirit of Mumbai. Its interiors blend heritage charm with contemporary elegance, with elements like vaulted ceilings, vintage Persian carpets, and locally sourced artwork. HyLo is the flagship restaurant of All In Hospitality, a company launched by Mayank Bhatt (the former CEO of Impresario Entertainment & Hospitality). The culinary program is helmed by Chef Swati Harsha and Chef Mrigank Singh, while the beverage program is led by Razvan Zamfirescu.
Browsing the extensive appetiser options is what made us truly understand HyLo's approach to pan-Indian regional food. For instance, the vegetarian section had delicacies ranging from specific types of Paneer Tikka and Dal Vada to Andhra-style Chilli Paneer and Dal Ka Keema. Different states are represented on the menu, but not necessarily by the same old dishes they are popularly associated with. Chef Swati revealed, "The research behind it was immersive - we travelled across the country, from the Gangetic plains to the cashew belt of the Konkan coast, engaging with home cooks, local communities, and culinary custodians. What stood out most was how deeply food is woven into the fabric of our hospitality, whether at home or in restaurants."
We loved the Kaaley Chane Ke Shaami, which was made using Chef Swati's family recipe. It was so beautifully soft that big pieces were falling off our fork before we could take a bite. We have usually only encountered this level of melt-in-the-mouth texture in meat shammi kebabs, and it allowed the spices to shine too. Next, we tried the Injipuli Mushroom and were struck by its novelty - while different versions of crispy mushrooms are common at many bars, it's not often you get to enjoy them slathered with a Kerala-style ginger-tamarind pickle. Sweet and tangy with a hint of spice, they contrasted with the subtlety of the shaami at our table.
The non-vegetarian options are also quite varied, with different meat and seafood preparations being spotlighted. If there's one dish you should not miss, it's the Apollo Fish. It was coated in a wonderfully fiery sauce made with red and green chillies, the fish surprisingly retained its crispiness. We were curious about its name and Chef Swati explained, "After much research, we've come to believe that iconic Hyderabad bar snacks like Apollo Fish, Majestic Chicken, and Loose Prawns are essentially variations on a theme - crispy, deep-fried morsels tossed in a heady mix of Chinese-style sauces, Indian masalas, and often a touch of yoghurt for richness. The names, we suspect, are simply catchy monikers designed to stand out on bar menus." Another unique discovery was the Chicken Sekua. These Nepalese-style skewers were slow-cooked over a traditional sigdi and served atop a red chilli and tomato chutney. They were smokier and lighter than typical Indian kebabs.
Before we tell you about the mains, let us introduce you to HyLo's bar program. While the food transports you to different corners of the country, the signature cocktails root you in Mumbai. If you want to begin with something light, opt for the Bombay 01 (Vodka, Aam Panna, Coconut & Basil Soda), which promises to capture the essence of Indian summers in a glass. Another refreshing option we liked was the Berry Bawa (Vodka, Raspberry and Elderflower), a take on the legendary Parsi-style Raspberry soda familiar to many Mumbaikars. For a fun, nostalgic twist, it also came in a bottle reminiscent of the Pallonji one. There are more daring concoctions on the menu - one incorporates beetroot kanji while another combines jackfruit with coconut and curry leaves! The most memorable one for us was the Musk-eteer, a gin-based cocktail innovatively topped with a salted lassi foam. Each sip starts with a hint of saltiness before giving way to the smooth sweetness of muskmelon and vermouth. Razvan revealed that he uses Xanthan Gum to ensure the foam remains stable and never collapses or integrates into the liquid below.
There's another array of signature cocktails worth trying, which are made using the HyLo-Genizer. This is a one-of-a-kind piece of equipment that HyLo claims they were the first to use for mixology purposes. Razwan explains, "This homogeniser squasher allows us to break down and emulsify ingredients at a molecular level, creating textures and flavour integration that traditional blending or shaking simply can't achieve. It gives us the ability to create ultra-smooth foams and suspensions as well as extract natural sugars and pure flavours from ingredients like fruits or citrus zests without pulling in unwanted bitterness or vegetal notes. It also allows us to work with delicate ingredients like oils, gums, or aerated components that would typically separate or fall apart using conventional techniques. We experienced the results of this technique first-hand in the form of a Pisco Sour. Refined and smooth, it had a delightful mouthfeel enhanced by naturally formed foam at the top. Razvan noted that compared to a traditional Pisco Sour, the HyLo-Genizer method delivers a creamier texture and a longer-lasting foam that holds its structure. A few other classics are also made with this method - these are separate from the section featuring selected "Evergreen" cocktails. Given the creativity of the drinks program, we were surprised that HyLo doesn't have a specially curated line-up of zero-proof drinks. However, note that staples like iced teas, sharbats and non-alcoholic versions of a few classic cocktails are available.
Now, coming back to the food, HyLo continued to stand out with not just the taste of its offerings, but also their conceptualisation. The main course offers a range of set meals, including comfort meal combos, elaborate thalis and niche platters. Expect pairings and curations like Ema Datshi with Tingmo and Ezay, UP (Uttar Pradesh) Ki Shaadi Ka Khaana, Nagpur Saoji Mutton with Indrayani Rice, Goan Fish Curry and many more. Chef Swati points out, "Being located in Kala Ghoda, surrounded by offices, the court, and the stock exchange, we knew we wanted to offer something quick, hearty, and delicious. You can walk in during your lunch break, pick your favourite set meal, and be in and out with no fuss." Since we visited in summer, we grudgingly skipped the heavier options in favour of the Jaffna Rice Plate. But we were far from disappointed. The tropical flavours of the cashew and pineapple stew with rice were supremely satisfying for a hot day. We also relished the spicy Chicken Chettinad with flaky bun parottas and an omelette on the side.
We ended our meal with a decadent Chocolate Toast made with three types of Manam chocolates. As we savoured the sweet bounty from the Godavari Delta, we realised that this chocolate also reflects the range of rich, homegrown ingredients India has to offer beyond the repeatedly cited examples. It made for a fitting conclusion as it exemplified HyLo's overall mission. We left with scrumptious memories and a deeper appreciation for the vastness of our country's regional foods.
Address: HyLo, 2nd Floor, Building 30, K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai.