Tokyo's Tuna King Opens His First-Ever U.S. Restaurant in Los Angeles

Eater

8 hours ago

The tuna king has finally come to Los Angeles. Japan-based restaurant chain Sushi Zanmai opened its first U.S. location in Los Angeles's Koreatown on August 2, taking over the former Sake House by Hikari in Chapman Market.
Restaurateur Kiyoshi Kimura, who is known as the 'Tuna King' in the famous Tsukiji Outer Market, opened the first Sushi Zanmai in 2001 in response to falling foot traffic. The restaurant quickly gained a dedicated following for its around-the-clock hours and affordable sushi. As Zanmai expanded, Kimura became a legend in his own right — in 2019, he paid a record 333.6 million yen (more than $2 million) for a single bluefin tuna at a New Year's auction. Purchasing the first fish of the year is considered an honor in Japan and attracts crowds to the restaurant.
On opening day, Kimura was on-site to cut into a 500-pound tuna in front of a crowd that amassed in the dining room. Donning a Zanmai-branded white coach's jacket and an apron, he used a katana-like sword to make the ceremonial first cuts. Kimura's team soon joined him to split the tuna open, exposing its ruby red flash; the head, which had been previously separated, sat in a rolling cart nearby. With a spoon, Kimura began to carefully carve out chunks of tuna, dropping them onto awaiting plates as servers distributed them to the diners in a flurry. The room quieted as the fish was covered, with guests sitting back down at their tables.
Kiyoshi Kimura at Sushi Zanmai. Rebecca Roland
500 pound tuna at Sushi Zanmai's opening day. Rebecca Roland
Except for the opening, Los Angeles diners will likely encounter a statue of a smiling Kimura with his outstretched arms. The interior resembles the Japanese locations, with a casual, minimalist design and an extensive sushi bar that runs the length of the room. A pergola-like wood structure sits above the dining room, with a handful of two and four-top tables below. Guests order off personal iPads on each table, which sends the ticket directly to the kitchen. The sushi, which is mainly served on black stones, comes out quickly, just minutes after placing an order.
The menu at Sushi Zanmai is straightforward, with crowd-pleasing hand rolls, cut rolls, nigiri, and more. Starters comprise dishes like edamame, shishito peppers, and spicy tuna crispy rice, topped with a thin slice of jalapeno. Other smaller, shareable dishes include agedashi tofu, sunomono cucumber, chawanmushi, karaage, and miso black cod.
Tuna passed around at Sushi Zanmai's opening. Rebecca Roland
As for sushi, Zanmai offers cut rolls filled with salmon, yellowtail, spicy tuna, natto, shrimp tempura, and more. Signatures include the Tsukiji with seared crab on a shrimp tempura roll, and the Hokkaido, with seared salmon on a California roll. Nigiri, which comes with one piece per order, is available with various cuts like toro, salmon belly, and whitefish; combination sets are priced between $8 for three pieces and $55 for the deluxe set. Zanmai offers four chirashi bowls, priced between $28 and $35, topped with toro, soy-marinated tuna, albacore, and more.
To complement the sushi, Zanmai also serves hot or cold udon and soba, alongside tempura and a handful of salads. Toban, dishes prepared in traditional Japanese ceramic cookware, come with a choice of salmon, tuna, oyster, tofu steak, vegetables, or mushrooms; each is between $13 and $22 and works as a shareable dish or dinner for one with the addition of some sides. Bento boxes, priced at $32, include three pieces of sushi and six pieces of sashimi, plus tempura, edamame, and a choice of proteins like grilled mackerel, chicken teriyaki, grilled salmon, and karaage.
After that first day, business at Sushi Zanmai settled back into a quiet lull, servers made a point to recommend the tuna, recounting the story of Kimura and his sword as if it were already a local legend. Even just days after its opening, one thing has already become clear: the tuna king is here to stay.
Sushi Zanmai is located at 3465 W. Sixth Street, Los Angeles, CA 90020, and is open seven days a week from 11:30 A.M. to 2:30 P.M. and 5:30 P.M. to 12 A.M.
Statue of Kiyoshi Kimura. Rebecca Roland
Sushi bar. Rebecca Roland
Dining room at Sushi Zanmai. Rebecca Roland
Salmon hand roll. Sushi Zanmai
Tsukiji roll. Sushi Zanmai
Toban. Sushi Zanmai
Chirashi bowl. Sushi Zanmai
Tuna nigiri. Sushi Zanmai
Nigiri. Sushi Zanmai
Sashimi. Sushi Zanmai
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