How Lee Min-seo turned drum leather into award-winning jewelry
Lee Min-seo, a graduate student at Hongik University in Seoul, was named the first university category winner of the Kering Generation Award X Jewelry, a global competition that champions sustainability and innovation in design.
The award, presented by French luxury group Kering — owner of brands such as Gucci, Saint Laurent and Boucheron— was announced during the JCK Las Vegas Show on June 7. Lee's winning jewelry collection, titled 'Rhythm Reborn,' reimagines discarded leather from the traditional Korean drum, janggu, into intricate and wearable pieces of art.
'Over 10 universities from around the world competed in the event,' Lee told The Korea Herald. 'Hongik University was the only one from Korea, and five students were selected to represent our department. I feel incredibly honored and grateful that my work was chosen.'
Lee's collection explores the cultural and emotional resonance of the janggu, with a strong emphasis on rhythm and repetition.
'I used to play janggu in elementary school as part of a samulnori club, which is how I first learned that the drum's leather can wear out and tear,' she said. 'When I saw that the competition focused on sustainability and waste, I immediately thought about how meaningful it would be to give those discarded materials a second life.'
Her design process was technically challenging, as animal hides like cow or sheep leather — commonly used in making janggu — are highly sensitive to moisture and temperature.
'I had to clean the leather thoroughly, which meant using water. Then I sliced it thinly, inserted it into metal frames, soaked it and bent it while wet. Once I applied heat, the shape would set. It was a way of using the material's vulnerability as a strength,' Lee said.
The Kering Generation Award X Jewelry was launched this year in collaboration with the World Jewellery Confederation and Politecnico di Milano. It was designed to discover and support new talent in sustainable luxury design. The 2025 theme, 'Second Chance, First Choice,' encouraged participants to view discarded materials as valuable resources.
'I interpreted the theme as giving discarded materials a second life, then presenting them in a way that would make them worthy of being someone's first choice again,' Lee said. 'That's what I aimed to do with 'Rhythm Reborn'.'
For Lee, tradition and sustainability are deeply connected — both conceptually and emotionally.
'Tradition is often seen as something from the past, but I believe it's something we can adapt and reinterpret,' she said. 'Design should not only be about making something beautiful — it should also carry meaning, responsibility and a story.'
This philosophy extends to her broader approach to art jewelry, which she views as both wearable and collectible.
'One of my collectors told me they planned to display my piece on the wall like an artwork,' she said. 'That's what art jewelry is — it exists somewhere between fashion, memory and fine art.'
Lee is currently a graduate student at Hongik University's Department of Metal Arts and Design. She credits her education for helping shape her artistic identity and visual language.
'My MFA thesis exhibition was a turning point,' she said. 'I created pieces using repeating comma-shaped units. It was exhausting but helped solidify who I am as an artist.'
She recently curated an upcycling-themed exhibition in Seoul and is planning more solo exhibitions in the future. As for future collaborations, discussions are underway with several brands, though no details have been finalized.
'There are opportunities for mentoring and possibly working with a luxury jewelry brand, but nothing has been confirmed yet,' she said. 'Still, I'd love to explore that world. I usually work with larger metal pieces, so seeing how luxury brands approach things like fine jewelry would be a valuable experience.'
Lee cites Boucheron and Japanese-born artist Junko Mori as ongoing inspirations.
'Junko Mori's dense, organic forms really resonate with me. I love repetition and detail, and her work reminds me of that,' she said.
Ultimately, Lee hopes to be remembered as a designer with a clear voice.
'I like clarity,' she said. 'I want my work to be instantly recognizable — something that stays in people's hearts. Sustainability isn't just about protecting the environment. It's also about preserving memory.'
yoohong@heraldcorp.com
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