Novikov Abu Dhabi first look: London-born bistro brings comforting Mediterranean flavours

The National

30-05-2025

After testing the UAE waters with a cafe in the Dubai Mall, Mayfair restaurant Novikov is bringing its Mediterranean flavours in a fine-dining setting in Abu Dhabi.
Located on second level of Galleria Mall in the heart of Al Maryah Island in Abu Dhabi, the restaurant is due to open on or around June 14. But I have taken up the opportunity to check out what's on offer in advance.
It is located in a corner of the mall by itself, but when I step inside it becomes immediately clear from the plush interior that it has an atmosphere all of its own.
Pushing for the best
A selection of fresh fish on ice catch the eye, across from a DJ station. The open kitchen, where guests will be able to watch chefs prepare and plate their food, takes up a large part of the space.
The seating area is spacious, with comfortable sofas hugging each table and an expansive view of the water canal.
Later, when the sun begins to set, a warm yellow glow washes over the area, soaking guests with sunlight and creating a cosy sanctuary. The resident pianist's soft sounds play in the background and a smell of aromatics and herbs fill the air, adding to the overall charm.
Once night falls and the lights dim, the space transforms into a lively evening destination, as the pianist suddenly becomes the in-house DJ and the bar lights up.
Italian head chef Alberto Dorigo, 26, says he will feel the responsibility of making customers happy. 'We will communicate through taste,' he explains. 'Taste sometimes is much more simple. It creates one unique culture, which is about enjoying food together.
'We are here to create the best restaurant in Abu Dhabi, so we push for that and we're going to succeed.'
Italian executive chef Marco Lubian adds: "I like the concept of bringing comfort food to a very high level. Here we have 60 to 70 per cent Italian food and we bring our vision from the Mediterranean sea."
Plates from the Mediterranean and beyond
Offering more than 45 dishes, Novikov's menu is a colourful and diverse, bringing together comforting Italian flavours, classic Greek dishes and staple Asian bites.
One of its signature starters is the beef carpaccio (Dh105), elegantly arranged with thin slices of Parmesan, rocket leaves, small dollops of truffle mayo and black truffle pieces.
While the truffle and cheese pairing with the beef is exquisite, the presentation of the dish is even more enjoyable. The pieces of truffle and cheese are extracted to the side, while the carpaccio is carefully rolled up with the arugula stuffed inside. It is cut and served with the toppings, creating a perfect bite into one.
The salads are light and fresh, stimulating the palate before the main dishes arrive. The catalana lobster salad (Dh220), made with fresh lobster, celery and potatoes, is a tribute to the summertime. The celery is an unexpected yet pleasant addition to the dish, enhancing the flavour profile to the next level.
As for pizza, the black truffle (Dh187) is a Novikov special, made with three cheeses and fresh black truffle pieces adorning each slice. The dough is neither thin nor thick, while the cheese and truffle melt together. If you are a fan on black truffle, this dish is for you.
Pasta dishes are a focus of the Mediterranean brand. One of them is the lobster linguine (Dh265) featuring sweet meat tossed in an herby tomato sauce. This dish transported me to the shores of a Greek island, its ocean-fresh flavour distinct with every bite.
Another fan-favourite in Novikov branches across the world is the rock shrimp tempura (Dh110), which is fried to a crispy-golden perfection and paired with a spicy mayonnaise sauce. While a simple dish, the visually-appealing presentation and satisfying crunch is a marker of its success.
As for the meat, the Australian grilled Wagyu sirloin (Dh480), which happens to be the most expensive dish on the menu, is worth splurging on. Cut into neat slices cooked medium, the well-salted meat is paired with a warm umami-gravy and a side salad with sun-dried tomatoes. Its tenderness is evident and the gravy seeps in the meat's crevices.
It can all be washed down with a 'where's your smile' sweet lychee mocktail (Dh50), infused with pieces of strawberry and blueberry. Every sip is refreshing and addictive.
The dessert menu is extensive. I try the vanilla gelato with candied cherries (Dh55) and it turns out to be a light yet sweet homage to Novikov's Italian cuisine.
Contact information
Novikov Abu Dhabi can be found in Galleria Mall, Al Maryah Island. When open, the restaurant will open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations can be made from June 14 by calling 02 563 2937.