West coast, best coast? Chase sunsets, marine life and circus vibes on Florida's Gulf coast

Miami Herald

2 days ago

It doesn't take much prodding to get me to visit the west coast of Florida — not with its photo-worthy sunsets, daily dolphin cameos, calm Gulf waters and powdery white sand. Now there are new reasons to visit, from a circus-themed hotel in Sarasota to an all-suite hotel that thrives on roomy suites and luxe perks in Clearwater Beach.
Peek Behind the Curtain of Cirque St. Armands Beachside, Sarasota
Ever wanted to run away with the circus? Escape the doldrums of everyday life with a stay at the new Cirque St. Armands Beachside in Sarasota. At this circus-themed hotel, which fronts the powdery sands of Lido Beach and is within walking distance to the Italian-inspired shopping and dining area of St. Armands Circle, guests are immersed in Sarasota's rich circus legacy — without the kitsch. In the heyday of the 1920s, John Ringling moved the circus' winter quarters to Sarasota, forever changing the city's cultural core — and this hotel is an imaginative tribute to that legacy.
Why Stay
Like a magic trick, the boutique hotel was transformed from a former Holiday Inn. Circus magic grabs your attention upon arrival: Green lion topiaries that stand guard at the front doors, sophisticated Art Deco touches like animal throw pillows on velvety furniture, ostrich feather chandeliers, black and white-striped columns, and oversized artwork featuring scenes from circus life. Grab the welcome cocktail — prosecco anchored with a popsicle — and walk around the property to soak up all of the whimsical details. Every day, I discovered something new.
While the communal spaces are doused in personality and bold patterns and colors, rooms are kept quiet for a relaxed vibe, with subtle nods to the circus, including artwork and coffee table books. All rooms come with balconies, many of which showcase beach views; and while rooms are spacious, we suggest booking a one-bedroom suite that offers an apartment-type feel. There's a kitchen and a large island for dining or working, a living room with a comfy wraparound couch, and the king bedroom features a bathroom with a gorgeous soaking tub.
Slip behind the red velvet curtains to dine at Ringside restaurant, where the beach and evening sunset show glimmer through floor-to-ceiling windows. The restaurant also pays homage to the circus, with curtained nooks that are reminiscent of rail cars for private dining (perfect for date night). Sip on theatrical cocktails and order from the seafood-centric menu that stars crab-stuffed mushrooms, char-grilled octopus, a pan-seared local grouper and a gorgonzola-encrusted New York strip.
The on-property pool is small but deliciously quiet, and includes a separate lawn for sunbathing, but guests seeking a resort experience can hop on a shuttle to Cirque's sister property, Lido Beach Resort, to use its pool and beach amenities. One afternoon, I ordered an early dinner by Lido's pool, walked the beach at sunset to hunt for shells (and scored sand dollars) and swam in the pool until after dark. To me, that's vacation magic.
What To Do
For better insight into Sarasota's circus heritage, spend a day at The Ringling, which is arguably one of the best museums in Florida. The estate grounds are massive and there is so much to see, from circus memorabilia to a rose garden and bayside winter mansion.
Start at the Circus Museum to take in the impressive mini-model of the tented Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus which authentically details every aspect of circus life, to restored original wagons and costumes, and even the Ringlings' private rail car. Make time for The John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art, where the diverse range of artwork and the grounds blew me away. It feels like a slice of Italy with Renaissance-style gardens and statues, and its arching pink architecture is worthy of photos.
At Marie Selby Botanical Gardens in downtown Sarasota — the world's first net-positive energy botanical garden complex — you'll bliss out on the garden's tree-canopied paths that wind past Sarasota Bay and its natural spaces that showcase serene waterfalls, towering banyan trees and perfectly crafted topiaries, and swinging bridges that adults will enjoy as much as children.
The garden is beloved for its orchid collection, air plants and rare plants. It's worth having lunch at The Green Orchid, where ingredients are often sourced from the on-site garden.
A Suite Stay At Opal Sol On Clearwater Beach
Another newcomer on Florida's west coast is Opal Sol in Clearwater Beach. This resort is connected to its sister property, Opal Sands, which means guests have access to amenities at both properties. In the lobby, towering trees grandly sprout from water features and luxe coastal vibes abound, and the guest rooms showcase Clearwater's prime assets like the beach and clear waters, where dolphins and manatees make regular appearances.
Why Stay
What sets this hotel apart from others in the area: All guests get a roomy suite and are guaranteed a Gulf view from huge, glassy balconies — which means you have a front-row seat to Clearwater's nightly sunset extravaganza and the beach. The moment I stepped outside on my balcony, I spotted a manatee swimming near the shoreline, coming close to giddy swimmers. That's just how clear the water is and how good the views are from Opal Sol.
Families or big groups will appreciate the range of room layouts, from studios to three bedrooms, and amenities such as kitchenettes and soaking tubs. All suites can be connected (so you can be with your kids or friends, while having your own space too). Pro tip: Choose a corner unit that comes with an outdoor shower and a hot tub, where you can watch the sunset from your balcony and then soak in the bubbling warm water as the sun goes down.
Drift restaurant is elevating the dining scene in Clearwater, not only in ambience but with a menu that focuses on local produce — do not miss the whipped feta served on a board with a medley of baby veggies, along with a velvety lobster bisque, a whole branzino topped with crispy onions, and locally caught fish dishes. You can also order a pizza blistered in the wood-fired oven.
When you're done dining and sunbathing at Opal Sol's three pools, take the skyway bridge to neighboring Opal Sands for more dining options, a Gulf-front pool and easy access to the beach. Altogether, guests have access to four pools, 10 dining outlets and two Opal spas, including one with a salt cave.
What To Do
Clearwater Beach regularly wins awards for its beaches, and a typical day should revolve around dips in the Gulf and walks along the beachside boardwalk. You're also in walking distance to Pier 60 and its nightly sunset celebrations.
Make a dinner reservation at nearby Crabby's Dockside, a three-story restaurant with panoramic views of the beach and neighboring marina. A coastal breeze and live music flow through the open-air spaces, making it easy to sink into relaxation. Grab a frozen cocktail and lock in an order of warm royal red shrimp doused with Old Bay seasoning, fire-roasted Alaskan snow crab legs, and local grouper cooked your way.
From there, head to the neighboring marina for a sunset cruise. While you can jet off on boats shaped like chomping sharks and tiki huts, adults looking for a serene sunset experience should book a trip with Schooner Clearwater. They cap the guest list at 20 people on the 52-foot sailboat, so everyone has room and an intimate experience. The captain sets the tone with a chill playlist, and if the winds are right, guests can help hoist the sails.
You'll look for dolphins as you sail around the beachfront waiting on the sun to set. The night I was aboard, clouds hindered an epic sunset the area is known for — but in typical Clearwater style, on the return back to the marina, the sky turned a brilliant pink and put on an incredible sky show that I'll never forget. That's the thing about Florida's west coast — from marine sightings to sunsets that always outdo the night before, you never know what nature has in store.