How Greenwich became London's loveliest spot

Telegraph

30-05-2025

Historic and handsome, with sweeping Thames views, a royal park and maritime heritage, Greenwich is one of London's most atmospheric neighbourhoods.
The walls of its pubs echo with sailors' tales and its institutions are frequented by visitors from all over the globe, who come to marvel at painted ceilings and astronomic instruments of centuries past.
With a pace of life that's more promenade than power-walk – except during the annual exodus of London marathoners – Greenwich's riverside pubs, bustling market and impressive museums make it the ideal place for a weekend escape (even if you live in London).
Although you could arrive by train (note that the Cutty Sark DLR station is closed until spring 2026), it's far more fun, and scenic, to take the boat or the foot tunnel from the Isle of Dogs.
Greenwich is south of the river – a vital distinction to Londoners – with trendy Peckham to the west, Blackheath and Lewisham to the south and Woolwich to the east. A Unesco World Heritage Site in parts, this pocket of London feels simultaneously grand and grounded. Here are all the things which make it an ideal place for your next domestic minibreak.
Where time begins
Climb up through Greenwich Park, one of the capital's oldest royal parks, and you'll reach the place where the Prime Meridian line slices the globe in two.
Stand astride it, half in the eastern hemisphere and half in the west – looking down across distinctive twin domes to the river and the tower-speckled skyline – and feel the pull of centuries of discovery.
Although its name references leafy, waterside qualities (so called by Danish settlers, Greenwich literally means 'green place on the bay'), for most, it is inextricably connected with time. Greenwich Mean Time, accepted globally in 1884 as the standard time reference, originated at the Royal Observatory, the first state-funded, purpose-built scientific institution in Britain; it was founded by King Charles II to aid maritime navigation.
Today, it's a major museum and scientific site, showcasing the history of astronomy and the evolution of timekeeping, and celebrating its 350th anniversary in 2025 with special exhibitions and events. Families should book in for Ted's Space Adventure (at weekends and in the school holidays); a 30-minute, child-friendly show which introduces the planets and stars through music, storytelling and science.
Maritime roots and market finds
At the heart of Greenwich is the Old Royal Naval College, Sir Christopher Wren's architectural masterpiece and once the site of the royal palace where Henry VIII was born.
It's now an occasional star of the silver screen (Les Misérables, The King's Speech, The Golden Compass).
The moment you step inside the Painted Hall – originally built as a dining hall for retired seamen – you'll better understand why it took 19 years to complete, and why it's sometimes called the 'British Sistine Chapel'.
This is just one of several Unesco buildings worth admiring in the area. The National Maritime Museum houses one of the world's largest collections of nautical treasures, from shipwreck relics to polar exploration gear and historic star charts; the elegant Queen's House next door blends classical design with world-famous artworks.
Less than half a mile away, the Cutty Sark – the fastest tea clipper of her day and the world's last surviving example – is moored in magnificent retirement, her vast iron hull raised above ground so you can wander beneath it.
Greenwich's covered market, open daily, was reinvigorated a decade ago and has been handsomely rewarded for its efforts. Wander through this vibrant hub of vendors, packed with handmade jewellery, vintage books, contemporary crafts and street food stalls where queues form before noon. Pick up fine cheese and charcuterie from French deli L'Hexagone or traditional candies, sold by the quarter, at Mr Humbug.
Nearby, Beadoir, a boutique specialising in beads and handcrafted jewellery, also offers classes to make your own pieces, while at Made In Greenwich, you can support local artists and makers, buying everything from ceramics and textiles to foodie treats.
If you're visiting in May, check out the Urban Village Fete, Greenwich Peninsula's biggest free day out. At any time of year, the gorgeous park is worth saving time for, from its Roman Temple, cherry blossoms and flower garden to what Google Maps helpfully labels as Best Deer Viewing Spot.
Pubs, pies, sausages and street food
Although Greenwich has its fair share of upscale dining options, like Southern Italian restaurant Bianco43, it does a roaring trade in hearty pub grub, café fare and more-ish street food, devoured by locals and visitors with equal zest.
The Plume of Feathers – the oldest pub in Greenwich, which predates even the Old Royal Naval College – has been welcoming travellers since 1691 in its prime spot near the park's boating spot. If you fancy a pub crawl, the walk towards Deptford and Rotherhithe is dappled with historic riverside taverns; while in the other direction, the Trafalgar Tavern is perennially popular, with maritime décor and distinctive bunting.
Locals get coffee and cake from Grind or 15grams Coffee House, and pizza from Wandercrust at The Pelton Arms.
East End nostalgia comes in the form of pie and mash at Goddards at Greenwich on King William Walk, a 135-year-old family-run institution.
The best British bangers are found down the road at Heap's Sausage Café on the corner of Greenwich Park.
Its neighbour, Oliver's Jazz Bar, plays live music every night until late.
Spend the night
Moments from Greenwich Park, the museums and the Thames is the smart, unassuming pub-with-rooms Admiral Hardy (from £174 per night), with a back door that opens into Greenwich Market and its own pub garden.
Greenwich Theatre or The O2 with a day or two exploring this lovely part of London.